Saturday, December 24, 2011

Bring it, Santa.... Ana's.. HA you thought I was gonna say "Claus!"

So tis the Season for strange weather. Yeah actually December around Christmas it really is not unusual for a visit from the Santa Anas.. I remember growing up in Orange County..(Santa Ana to be exact. LOL) and having our Christmas lights blown off our house one year.

Any way I surfed last week in the wind..BUT this past Thursday was CRAZY. Started out ok. We ended up at Blackies, because the Cliffs and Bolsa were no Bueno and Newport actually had a bit of motion in the Ocean..
Only thing is my friend Irma and I thought we better get in right then, because when the wind picks up it's gonna get too big. So when we got in it was 2-3.. but more 2.. and the waves were not easy to catch. Lots of paddling for nothing is how I felt.

I caught like 3 rides. I had one of my fun long lefts.. ALWAYS A FAVORITE!.. then the wind started picking up.

It was getting COOOOLD. I was putting my hands in the water to keep them warm. They literally were turning purple. BUT I was only out for maybe less than an hour and I didn't care how cold I was getting I wanted more waves.. more rides.

The wind whizzed by my head. The ocean was creating this bumpiness, the waves started breaking inside.. and the spray was strong. I still sat outside waiting.. and waiting. Then all at once everyone up and down the break started paddling inside. So I did too. Nothing was happening outside. So if you wanted a ride, you had to get it inside.

Then the Ocean just stopped. The wind was crazy. The sand was blowing at us from the shore. BUT NO waves. Then when a little something happen.. EVERYONE PADDLED FOR IT. Seriously. These were not waves worth fighting over. But everyone was desperate and wanted something. I just sat there on my board watching the show. I was pretty much by my self to the left. But I was where NOTHING was happening at all.
Then A nice swell came.. and I was woo hoo I am gonna take this in. I catch it go to stand up and the wind pushes me down. The wave closes out. I am ON my hands and knees on my board laughing as the spray from the offshores is hitting my face like needles and I can barely stay on my board on my hands and knees!!!!! I was all what the ????
I told my friend Irma.. this is Crazy.. she says.. "I KNOW". We sit out there for a bit longer. Then we decide to go in. Tried to wait for one more wave. BUT there was nothing. SO I boogie boarded my board in, with the little bit of white wash there was.

NOW getting out of the ocean and to the Tahoe.. that was a different story. OH my!!! The sand was beating at us, the wind was pushing me back. My board was like a sail. I kept spinning around, trying to figure out the best way to move forward. Then a bigger gust of wind would come and spin me around again. I didn't feel so bad. It was happening to everyone trying to get out.

Wow what a funny sight to be seen.

I finally got to my tahoe and that tub of warm water was the most beautiful feeling in the world as I poured it over me.

But it didn't last long. That wind was strong and cold and was winning. I could not feel my fingers and had the hardest time getting my wetsuit off. When I did and got dressed. WHICH took me forever. I went right to the coffee shop and got me a Large Cup of never tasted to good!

Well that is it. I Really wanted to surf Friday. BUT had to do ALL my Christmas shopping and now it is Christmas Eve and am at work.. but not for the whole day. AND I would really LOVE to try and sneak a Christmas morning surf in..BUT I don't think it would be possible. I hate living so far from the Beach.

Any Way! Merry Christmas.. Hope some of you are catching some Christmas Cheer.. in water form!

Monday, December 19, 2011

Surfing and the Mentor!

I am in a bit of a fog...(So I am not sure what to title this post).. please excuse me if my post is all over the place. I usually do not like to write unless my head is clear. BUT I feel I need to write to help clear my head. HA!..TOO much going on in my life ugggg! But I want to and have to post about my Saturday Session.

I surfed last Saturday with my friend and surf Surf Mentor if you will... Natalie. We had not surfed together since I first started this addiction of surfing. She wanted to see how far I have come. A few reasons we do not surf together. 1) she is far more advance than I. 2) she is a shortboarder and we surf different breaks and different times. 3)Our schedules are not in Sync. But we were hanging out one day and she wanted to see how far I have come in my 2 and ironically exactly to date 1/2 years of surfing. (I didn't realize that Sat. was the 17th. WOW!)

So we set a date in advance to surf and just hoped the conditions were doable. Yes they were. Perfect surf day for me 1-3' and then we got some light off shores.

Natalie picked the cliffs to surf. A little bit of something for everyone. There are short boarders and long boarders and lots of dogs. LOL.. I never surfed here, but have heard different things from different people. When I mentioned I was gonna surf the cliffs to a fellow surfer. She said "oh boy...time for the big girl board shorts"..That made me a little nervous. So did surfing a new spot I have never been. I was not sure what type of break or how the vibe is or what to expect. I heard that the cliffs,(when I first started surfing) was not a place for beginners. I still feel very much like a kook. But Natalie said it is still good for beginners, but maybe not people who are learning. Leave that to Blackies. ;-) So this is a step up in some ways.. But then again it always depends on the surf conditions. This spot is between HB and Bolsa. Technically still the wave is like that."But I feel it is better than Bolsa, does not do that drop thing as much"..
I was really wanting to impress Natalie. I wanted to make her proud. She introduced me to something I love so much. The only gift I could give her, was not screw up. Made me nervous. I know I shouldn't be. But sometimes I surf like I have never been on a surfboard before. Sometimes I surf like I totally have been for years. I just wanted to show her I can catch a wave and stay on the board.HAHAHA. I know I still have a lot to learn.

So we get there. But as we were driving I am getting that fluttery feeling in my stomach. I start to get anxious as we get closer. I am excited and just want to get in the water. I always feel like a kid getting ready to go to the candy store and when we are there I cant wait to get in.
We run into my friend Jen and her Husband Alan. I thought Natalie may know them. But she didn't, so I introduced them and told Jen, Natalie was the first one to take me surfing and has not been out with me since. Jen told her I have come a long way and is proud of me. That made my heart fill with pride also. THANKS JEN!

So we get out and Natalie is describing the break and what to expect. We paddle out. The paddle out was easy. There was a bit more people than I thought. But it was ok. I felt safe with Natalie there. I get my first wave a left and take it all the way to shore. Natalie watched and when I hopped off she was clapping. I think she wanted to cry. I get back to her and she said.. "Michelle that was awesome" you did so good. Yep she was proud. =D
I go after a few more. I get some and some I don't. I wipe out a few times. I rode a total of about 5 waves I say. Some Natalie was coaching me on. I could always use a few pointers. I also am learning when to paddle for a wave, how to read them. I paddle after everything. haha. Sometimes I paddle and there is nothing, the water plays tricks with my eyes and I think it is a swell. I start paddling and Natalie calls me and says come here. I do and she said what are you paddling for? There was nothing there. LOL.. She was teaching me about shoulders. Lefts and rights. I am getting lefts and rights and I have been calling them out when I see them before they break when I go after them. But sometimes I think a left is a right and vice a versa. Or I stand up on my board and realize what it is at that time. I have to say more than not I get it right. I also paddled for a wave that is gonna break left but It swells up way far from me..and it would never be my wave. It is too far away. Sometimes I paddle to early, sometimes too late.. Or I paddle at the peak..and I learned.... That is why I pearl sometimes. I am still learning to judge waves. I still am not sure about positioning as well. It is all a learning process.
I had never been out on a day where the offshores blew. It was not bad. but you could feel it. Natalie was pointing out the spray that comes off a wave when it is off shore. I thought it was beautiful.. and sometimes you see rainbows in that spray like it was being projected on movie screen. For me that was a magical moment. I just sat outside for a while watching it. I love finding beauty in things I never knew I would.
Well a few of her friends were out there. Her Boyfriend Donald came out too. The over all vibe was great. When Natalie gave me pointers a few people confirmed what she was saying or cheered me on or told me to paddle harder and told me I got things. It was a great experience. Definetly a great surf day.

We saw Jen again walking in. I Was out there for 2 hours Natalie, almost 3.. Natalie was telling her about my waves. She said I ride them all the way to shore. I tire myself out padding back to the line up. I look exhausted and panting paddling back out. I do. Funny because, Jen was also telling me that not too long ago, and said to not take them all the way in. Especially on days where it is hard to get outside. It helps save energy. I told both of them, Yeah I know. BUT When I get up. I want the ride to last as long as it can..hahahaha. I just get so excited riding my board.

We went back to Natalies pad and she made us grilled cheese, and we had wine and cheese and crackers and homemade sugar cookies. Had great conversation and bonding time.

The view from Natalies living room.. NICE!

I am so glad Natalie has came into my life for more reasons than one. Thank you Natalie for everything.

Friday, December 16, 2011

Hold on to your hats.. or in this case surfboards

So I have tomorrow off and had not surfed in over 10 days..We have these very powerful NE winds which make it offshore. I hear that is good for surfing.. Helps shape a nice fun wave. Surf report says 2-3 and fair at least where I plan on surfing.. HOWEVER if the winds are as strong as they are right now. I think I will get blown Right off my board if I try to stand up....
... Stay tuned and I will let you know what happens..If I don't get blown far far away...or if I even surf at all=)

Monday, December 12, 2011

Surfing Safari..Celebrity Style

awww The infamous words from the beach boys.

I have been reading about a lot of female celebs trying surfing lately..and I have also read a lot of negative comments about it. Got me thinking is all...

I have read. Lindsy Lohan, Lady gaga..( < honestly that one surprised me, along with the next one) Reese Witherspoon, have all recently gave surfing a go. Also there is Minnie Driver, Vanessa Hudgens, Helen Hunt, Maggie Gyllenhal and Avril Lavigne to name a few... Don't believe me.. google it there are pictures.

What I don't get.. WHY are people so upset about it???.. Especially other surfers. Do they feel they own the ocean? I am an advocate for everyone should try surfing..maybe it is because of how much I love it and how much it does for me.. I want people to feel the same way. I am all for sharing the waves..However.. I would like to work out a time schedule at some of the more crowded breaks. Ha HA!

But really I just read on a Surfers Magazine Facebook Post regarding a picture of Lindsy Lohan with surf manager/agent Blair Marlin. There were some very negative comments. I know she has been in the news with a lot of negativity lately..BUT she is still a human a being.. and MAYBE surfing can quiet the fire in her soul and help take away the addictions and demons she is dealing with. Cut the girl some slack will ya!

With Lady Gaga... I read a few negative comments..that are too stupid and immature to mention. She actually looks like she got the surfing thing down. GOOD FOR HER!!

I really don't understand Why people are upset.. Are female celebrity's not allowed to surf? Is the feeling mutual about Male Celebrity surfers? I really don't see as much negative comments about them.... Is it mostly guys that feel this way?.. Is it because they are celebrities and more public figure that these comments are made?.. would they be made about me too as I am learning to surf if I was famous?

Just wondering.... as I read surfing articles..these thoughts are swimming through my mind..and wanted to see what others thought.

Friday, December 9, 2011

I just love to surf and I love HB!

OK I know almost everyone reading this is probably a surfer... So I know you understand and relate!

When I first left the house in the morning, I was having 2nd thoughts,thinking I am crazy leaving on a 38 degree morning travel 37+ miles, to go and get in the cold pacific ocean, AND..not sure if there will even be surf.. There must be something wrong with me?! can you say "Addiction?"

I had a few first again.. and even if I did not, Wednesday still would have been one of those favorite surf days. I have been having more favorite surf days than not..SO I lost count at which is my favorite to date..MAYBE the day I stood up for the first time.. or maybe my first(and so far only) overhead wave.. or when I first went left, or right...but I say this day was right up there.

Of course when it is my day off the forecast and ocean decide to go flat..(always happens to me either that, or we just got over some rain, or its windy.. (the wrong kind)..but low and behold.. WE FOUND LIFE IN HB!

My friends daughter was in surf competition by the HB Pier, for her High School surf team so, since she was there, she gave a surf report, said it was small, but not flat just south of the competition, which was South Side of the pier.... OH AND a shout out to her Daughter Irene.. GOOD JOB!!!! She took home 1ST PLACE LONGBOARD DIVISION!!! Also the only one to take 1st place in her whole team!

SO what made this small surf day so special?
ONE) there was surf 2-3'(ankle to knee, with some very occasional and rare waist high)but nothing bigger, and fun. Could have had a little more push to the waves. BUT I HAD A BLAST..

TWO) Of course the company I keep, the girls I surf with are the best. They all rock and are so encouraging. Today there were 4 of us and our honorary Wahine Kai guy, Eric. Plus the other people in the line up were so chill and cool. Till some young groms came and crashed into my friend Jen. They were kind of annoying youngens too...anyway lets not ruin the great vibe here...

Three) I caught so many rides I lost count.

As for my "FIRSTS"... We surfed Huntington Beach..First time I ever paddle out past the break there and actually surfed. I kinda surfed there one other time when I was beginning..but it was a hard day and the ocean was not very nice, and I never made it out past the break. I also hear it is so localized and was not sure about that, So I was a bit scared to go today.

Another first. I borrowed my friend Laura's 7'9" and actually surfed on it. It is the smallest board I have ever been on. BUT I rode waves on it. NOT very gracefully, It was odd to me. Such a difference going from a 9-0 to a 7-9.. that 2 feet and 1 inch is a big change. I had no idea where the heck to put my body on it. Then I felt I was too far up on the nose. Paddling was different. It was SO light. But when I started figuring it out..(after one yucky wipe out, I tumbled like I was in a Maytag dryer for a minute or two)..I was shocked I could ride it. BUT Tallulah is my security blanket/board. And I felt like when I was on the 7'9" I was in a canoe in the ocean, and the 9'0'was like being on the fishing boat the Nautilus.. haha..but I am happy I did it. "NOW I am looking forward to my 8'0 Val!!!"
Anyway.. boards were passed around that day. I just tried the one. Laura tried mine and another. I thought it was hilarious to watch Eric on my big pink board.

I also had another and to date my best, right! So I guess I know what I am doing. As a matter of fact. I had a wave crash in front of me, as I was paddling back out to the line up, Instead of going through it, I spun my board around and didn't even paddle as I caught a ride, haha! I yelled I am cheating as I rode some white wash in. My friend Laura, said she does not want to ever see me in white wash again..HER words were something like this.. "You are above and beyond that, you can catch waves..If I catch you going after white wash again.. I am cutting your leash!".. aww I so feel the love.. and I genuinely mean that in a nice way..The girls I surf with really do rock, and have mine and we have each others back. I know I have come a long way, but their words of encouragement help me to see that much clearer.

I feel like the lil caterpillar is leaving the cacoon and becoming a butterfly.. SO question..when am I NOT a KOOK any longer?

Well I am at work for another 8 days..So I am hoping to get back in the water a week from this Saturday.. or if I get the cajones again..and surf cooperates. I may sneak in a dawn patrol before work on Sunday...
See ya in the water!

Sunday, November 27, 2011


I did it I woke up at 5 AM drove 37 miles to my nearest break, my home break. It was pitch black when I left my house as seen in top pix. I was in the water before 6:30 and out by 7:30 came home and got ready for work and made it to work by 10 AM.. yep so this maybe a new Sunday thing. I don't know how many people would attempt a 74 mile round trip for an hour of surf..Call me crazy! I needed it.

Surf was fun 2 footers pretty consistent. But I don't know what was wrong with me. I sucked. I only caught close outs...I caught one decent lil ride inside..but I just could not focus or something...
I did not get much sleep, for a few reasons. 1) my allergies or I am getting sick again were going crazy last night, I kept getting up to blow my nose, actually my nose is so sore that when the salt water touched it, it burned. 2) my daughter had her friend spent the night and those teenage girls were noisy and my Chihuahua kept growling and barking all night.. and my husband was snoring. I am surprised I even woke up at 5..well I did press snooze 2 times, so more like 5:15.
I also think I was so worried about time and making it to work and wanting to surf,I was too anxious to catch waves. I just didn't relax and focus. I looked like I didn't know what I was doing out there today.
I also realize I talk to myself, about the waves coming at me,or when I mess up, I am sure people think I am a schizophrenic crack head. LOL..but I promise you I am not. I just analyze too much and talk out loud about it, my way of walking through it in my mind. I will need to work on that.

I like getting to the beach early, I was one of the first 10 peeps in the water and it is cool to see the sun come up. My friend Artie the trooper she is joined me. I thought the water was gonna be cold..but surprisingly it was fine. Booties are a lifesaver. I don't know how I surfed in the winter months prior to this??

By the time I was getting out 7:30sh.. the break was getting crowded. I was going after a wave, it was a left just what I wanted. I was so stoked I thought I had it, then I looked to my right and everyone and their brother were on that wave. They were right on top of each other, I of course backed off. I caught my last ride in a left from the inside. It was time to go.
BUT I am happy I went. I like watching the sun come up. I like seeing the dolphins first thing in the morning. Even though I sucked. I think I may make this a Sunday habit. Work or no work. Early morning surf sesh to start the day.

Saturday, November 26, 2011

Just call me Chicken....or Sane?

Picture of Blackies when we just got there,right before the tide was getting high.

I know I have not surfed in a while. It was either raining, or had just rained on my last couple of days off!
So I was so excited to see the rain did not arrive on Turkey Day, so I could surf on Friday. Seriously I am not into getting hurt or injured or pepper sprayed for a discount on some consumer item, So was all too happy to skip the Black Friday hype to surf.. and was hoping everyone else was shopping.. WRONG!
When I put the call out a few girls said they wanted to surf. I said cool I will catch up with you all on Friday morning and make a game plan!
Friday morning came and I get reports from friends about the monstrous high tide..of course when I am headed out to surf. I thought that meant the tide would be too big and waves would be swampy?

Look how big it got!

Well The tide was high, the water washed all the way up to the wall at Blackies. BUT the waves were HUGE too. I say easily average wave was 6 ft. They were also fast. I know for some or most surfers that is what they want. BUT it was too dangerous looking for me. AND crowded. I saw so many wipe outs. Boards flying up into the air when the wave closed out. I saw so many people almost get beheaded by surfers while some were paddling out, others whizzed right by their heads. Looked like rockets. I also saw surfboard after surfboard wash to shore with out a surfer attached. Talk about dangerous. One surfer also hauled in what looked to be a big piece of plywood from the surf.. OUCH that would hurt if it hit you!
Two of my friends were out there. One said after catching one wave she was wondering what she was doing out there. SHE is a talented surfer, So I knew if that is what she was thinking, I would die, just die if I attempted to paddle out. My other friend loved it out there. Just it was crowded and people were all going after the waves, Dog eat dog and everyone was out for themselves. So after a few she came in.
Watching the show from shore was crazy, My stomach was hurting with all the excitement.

Even after watching all that I was still antsy..but I knew better. I really didn't feel like dying that day, I have grandchildren I want to watch grow up, and I can't afford a hospital stay or any injury for that matter, Since I am the one who seems to be financially responsible for mostly everything at this time....
I even walked to the South side of the pier,(I felt like my chihuahua who walks back and forth with anxiety when I put him outside, and he wants to come in,that was me walking up and down the beach looking to see if I can get in)any way.. South of the pier is usually smaller when the North is going off. BUT it was pretty big too, and was like a washing machine and the powerful waves came in different directions and just closed out. So I decided not to go out at all.
I was gonna drive North to Seal. But the hubs was with me and he didn't have that desire to look for surfable waves that I did. He does not surf, he fishes..(now if we were talking fishing, that would be different, we would go anywhere for fish.) Next day I was informed Seal was pretty big too, So I guess I saved some gas there. It just did'nt matter where I went.
I am happy though my experienced surfing friends had a great time up and down the coast. I got a few reports from some super stoked surfers so that is good.
I am hoping tomorrow.. Sunday... will be a bit smaller, I hear it should be... because I am.. as I said getting antsy, and I think I am gonna attempt a dawn patrol before work tomorrow. Drive 70 miles round trip to get in the water by 6:30 and out by 7:30 to be home dried and dressed and at work by 10 am.. doable..right?

Friday, November 11, 2011

Sometimes good things happen at your least favorite break.

Well I got into the water on Wed. I was debating on Blackies or Bolsa. It was not the biggest day of surf, that was for sure. A friend responded she would surf with me if we hit Bolsa....She has a state pass so that covers parking.. I was in.

NOW Bolsa and I have a is a LOVE/HATE one.. the break is really starting to grow on me now. BUT the waves no matter how small or big, just have this drop to them. I always have to re learn,so to say, how to surf Bolsa. My first couple of times ALL I did was wipe out. It got very I am always worried about those pesky sting rays. But since the water is colder I like to think they went into hibernation. One less thing to worry about. PLUS Bolsa just seems so like being in the wilderness. No pier, no houses.. just beach. WHICH is really nice. I should really be embracing that. BUT I always get an insecure feeling out there. I don't know why. It is the vast openness, I guess you could say.

So anyway.. the last couple times I surfed there, I did pretty well. I always think I wont, but I do. OF course I had my first wave that day be a wipe out. My second wave I was all shaky, like I never been on a board before. I do that from time to time. Sometimes I surf like I know what I am doing, and sometimes you would swear it was my first time standing. I think I just psych myself out. BUT after I relax..and get into the groove. I do ok.

I would say the biggest wave was a random waist high. Calf and knee size were the norm. It had a good vibe and a few surfers,(more really than I thought would be there on a Wed. and a small day.)But not as crowded as other places. I met some new guys, and they were encouraging, that is always nice.

Well after my first wipe out. I did good, caught a few lefts and a few waves that closed out and really just rode the white wash to shore. Still a ride and I stayed on so I am counting it.

BUT then this wave came and my friend says right it is a right, as I am paddling. NOW I try to go left on everything. I just go left..NO it does not always work out...but I do it naturally. BUT this time I get the wave.. I start to go left... turn my board and I go right, ON PURPOSE.. I say to myself come on go right.. you can!. I don't know if you recall some posts where I try to go right and it is backside for me.. so I usually go right all right...RIGHT OFF THE BACK OF MY BOARD.. I call it the nestea plunge of surfing. HA HA! but this time I did it .. I went right I controlled it.. TOOK it all the way to shore. AND I yelled I am going right.. OMG I am doing this!! WOOT WOOT!!...while I was riding it in. SEEM like a long ride in. I had so much control. I was soooo Happy. 2 of the guys I met that day applauded. One was on the beach on a chair and the other was getting out, I pulled right up to him. THEIR encouragement made me so happy, I explained it was my first real right. MY friend outside gave me shakas and clapped too..and everyone in ear shot was looking at me. I guess everyone about a mile north or south heard me.. HAHA.. I was Happy. I get SUPER STOKED when I accomplish something. THIS year has been the best for me surfing wise. I have accomplished a lot of firsts. Man that just keeps the fire under me to do more. I always think it is a fluke when I do something..but I eventually do it again.

Well after that I was outside just sitting, talking with my friend, because really any sort of wave was few and far between. THEN the Dolphins show up. Right there. They were so close and beautiful. I swear as they were all doing there dance going south, ONE held his head up turned and looked at me. Right in the eye. It was weird but he or she starred at me. I just said hi sweetheart you are beautiful. I guess he/she decided I was not a threat and carried on. They were right at us. THAT NEVER GETS OLD, and it is so magical and one of the best part about being a surfer, is the land dwellers will never experience that amazing magical feeling.

SO NOW I feel like an accomplished surfer.. I can go left and right! The dolphins gave me some sort of approval..;-) So yep. I am getting there..not ready for any competition or anything like that..but I feel I am becoming more and more of a surfer and am moving up from kook hood! SLOWLY BUT SURELY!

Wednesday, November 2, 2011

Lake Blackies

As this pictures shows.. "Lake Blackies" and Dave's paddle board in the shot, just confirms it!

I have not posted since I surfed. Halloween and work and others stuff just consumed me. Last time I surfed was last Friday. Really nothing to report. The ocean looked more like a lake. However it was a warm morning and the water was so clean even though the water was cold, I went in just for the sake of getting wet. I caught one lil ride, that was it. I did however make some new friends as I stood in my wet wet suit for over an hour waiting to see if the tide change would bring anything.. BUT nope nothing. While talking to my new friends, I learned I should either get a smaller center fin, or take the two outer ones off and see how I surf then. I believe I will try that next time I get out... if I get out any time soon... I am still getting over Bronchitis and surfing in the colder water is not helping me get any better. So I figure I should try and rest a bit. AGAIN! I am so restless AND I am getting irritated with one thing or another keeping me out of the water and preventing me from surfing. But oh well...

OH and in other news. That same day.. a Sheriffs boat was was sitting by the pier for a while. I was watching it, wondering why it was there and what it was doing. I thought hmm maybe a body or possibly a shark sighting. Funny, when I came out of the water my buddy Rick, came up to me and asked if I knew why the Harbor Patrol was there? I said I had my suspicions. He confirmed it was more than likely a shark. I guess they call Harbor Patrol if the shark is big enough to cause concern. I could have paddled to the boat, it was not far from us at all. THE water that day besides being very cold was crystal clear too, and there was a LOT of bait fish swimming around. I figured if it was a shark, I am sure the bait fish is what drew it close to shore. Oh well No harm. BUT what sits in the back of my mind is Rick's words.. "Big enough to cause concern"..How big is that?

Monday, October 24, 2011

I liked this and wanted to share

A friend posted this on Facebook and she got it from another site. I just loved it and thought it would be nice to share. I think ALL us surfers can relate to the words.

Since I have not fully recovered from the Bronchitis bordering on Pneumonia, and surfed and got back into my running and did everything but fully rest...or I'm just plain ole sick again. I did not surf this last weekend. BUT I heard surf was not so great anyway so I did not miss much.

However my daughter REALLY wanted to surf this weekend... AND when My 14 year old said she wants to spend time with me.. and not just spend time with me..but dign what I LOVE!!! which is rare at this age..I got all excited too. BUT Thankfully she understood I was still not well and didn't want me to risk a possible hospital stay if I surfed with her. LOL..

So nothing new to report..Hopefully I will feel well Thursday and or next days off..and hopefully there will be something to surf

Tuesday, October 18, 2011

Measuring a Wave!

So there has been a lot of discussion lately about how to measure a wave..and it is very confusing to me. SO I started using body parts.. ankle, knee, waist, chest, head. I usually do not like to surf anything much above my waist..and seem to go out when it is ankle to maybe chest high. WHEN some of those chest highs get bigger and or stronger. I will come in. I have realize too big for me. I think that as 4-5 waves. When I try to look at the face and do some fast math in my head. MY BEST wave was just over my head. I am so stoked and said it had to be a 5'. THEN my bubble was popped. BECAUSE of the whole Hawaiian style measuring. From the back of the waves. WELL 1).. you don't surf the back of the wave... and 2) When you are surfing.. who sees the back of the wave??? Does not make sense to me.

So I am gonna go with this way of measuring and stick with it.:

OK I would like some feedback on this!

I still am stoked on my wave regardless.. it is and probably will always be my all time best.

Monday, October 17, 2011

Two views of one MAGICAL wave

Unfortunately I do not have a picture for this post. I am really bummed because I WISH I DID!!!!! But this work of Art expresses a lot of what I could not put in words about my experience.

I had to do a separate post for this wave I spoke a little about in my previous post.
I am still taking it in, absorbing what happened, and still in awe of this wave. THIS ONE WAVE. I mean this happened on Friday..and it is now Monday, and I think I have the right energy and perspective to finally put in words. I think I have finally come to the conclusion this really happened!

Last night I asked my husband to tell me what he saw on the beach when I caught this wave. Which I am going over and over in my head about. I still can't believe it. So after hearing my husbands version I was REALLY!!! It really did happen!! It was not a dream, it was not exaggerated in my mind...SO I want to do a post here as told by me and my husband view as it was happening.

So I am outside and a huge swell is coming in, All the other surfers paddle towards it, I heard someone say WHOA!! My thoughts were wow where did this come from? I was just about to follow the pack, when I don't know where I got the cajones? I just heard the words of my 19 year old surfer friend here where I work go through my mind, "Don't be afraid of the big waves" "Go for it!"

Me: I spun my board around and paddled for the wave.. thinking to my self.. Oh this is gonna hurt..your gonna die.. what are you doing?

Hubs: Oh look She is the only one paddling for that wave.(husband is not a surfer but a fishing boat captain. SO this gets good)

Me: oh crap I am lifting up too high.. too high. Oh shit!

Husband: You were on the white water top of the wave.. then you stood up Me: you mean the lip, I popped up at the lip?..(so what was going through my mind as I am on this part of the wave... was as said above, TOO high oh shit oh shit I am gonna eat it! OK just pop up..I did.. holy cow I am up!! Oh this isn't gonna last.. that is a long fall in front of me. Michelle last time you did this you ate are stupid, you are not ready for this.)

Hubs: then you fell to the front of the wave while standing on the board.. Me: I dropped onto the face of the wave,while still standing? (I remember dropping and my stomach dropped and all I could think is I am still standing!!)

Me: how big was the wave? Where was the wave on my body? waist, chest? Hubs: um it was above your head when you were at the bottom. ME: HOLEY SHIT A HEAD HIGH WAVE ?! I am 5'7" and it was at my head. so what a 5' wave? Hubs: yeah probably...(So seriously I was not thinking at this point how big the wave was... I was just trying to stay on my board..and I think my soul left my body..because I could not believe what was happening.. All that kept going through my head was I am still on, I am still on!!but I knew this was the biggest wave I have ever caught and rode!

Hubs: you were on for a long time and rode it all the way to the were going right. ME: I was going left he was facing me.. and I did ride it all the way to shore.. I think I was again having an out of body experience. I remember stepping of my board in ankle deep water, I was in a daze. I wish I knew what my expression was, I either had a smile ear to ear or I had a complete look of shock on my face. I remember looking to see if my husband saw it. I saw his red shirt and knew he was still there. Then I looked around expecting people to be all excited..BUT really I didn't know anyone around me. It was in a crazy moment. I grabbed my board and went out and asked Artie if she saw what happened? I really wanted to know how big that wave was..but she only knew I caught a wave.. she didn't see much else. I was thinking maybe it really was not that big of a deal..but I am so glad my husband was there and his description confirmed my feelings.

I am so Happy my husband saw that! I have a witness. I wish I had a picture or better yet video.. I really wish I could see the look on my face.

See...I think a wave that is waist high is big for me. I am so happy surfing anything and cruising on my board slowly in ankle to knee to waist high. THAT is my fav thing to do. That is MY surfing..

BUT now.. I have experienced this! Mamma likes and I want more please!!!

Sunday, October 16, 2011

MY ME DAY!! What a Friday it was!!!!!

A few of the girls getting ready to head out here.

SO I just posted about my Thursday experience...and Now want to post about Friday.
Our club had planned a sunset SUP and then Happy Hour for this day. SO I planned to make the day out of it, I had the day off woot woot, and made it a ME DAY!....
..AND I had the BEST ME DAY!

My husbands boat did not go out in the morning, He text ed me to see where I would be surfing, so he got to the break before me & came to watch. I am so glad he did. HE FINALLY saw me catch some waves..not just white wash.. so he was impressed..and a bit proud of me. =)...

So the idiot from the day before did not discourage me. I came back to Blackies the next day at the same time. Well maybe a little bit earlier but not by much. Surf was not as big, but I say it was smoother than the day before. It was mostly knee to waist high, with an occasional chest to head high random wave or two.(I am using body parts to describe the waves, it is easier.., because, sometimes what I think is a 4' wave, is really a 3' or less..I have no sense of measurement when it comes to waves haha)

THE vibe in the water was so much different than the day before. A lot nicer group of people were out there and we had a blast. Yes it was still crowded..always is! "Note to self..if I surf alone.. surf next to female paddle boarder named Mona, She is out there all the time and everyone seems to know her and THEY all are nice." She calls waves for us and tells us to get ready and she is just a positive ray of sunshine out there..and just because she is on a paddle board, she does not dominate the surf. I liked her! My friend Artie met me there, I was so Happy she came! I don't get to surf with her as much and I love surfing with her. Then our friend Kori showed up later too. BUT even if they were not there. Again a much nicer group. The vibe was so just didn't want to get out of the water. Speaking of h2o..water temp seemed a little cooler, but I again wore my shorty, air temp for sure was, a few degrees cooler, BUT the sun was still shining.

My first wave I pearl... oh well. Whatever. This time I stayed outside the whole time, (until the waves were only breaking inside, then I moved there.) My second wave I pop up and slip right off. OOPS, I need some more wax, I run my hand across the board and it was so slippery. I forgot to check before I went out. I was just too excited and anxious to go out and surf. HA! So I came in. My husband asked if I was all right? He thought the board hit my head. I said no, I slid right of my board during pop up and I totally need to wax this.. so he watch my board as I ran to the Tahoe and got a bit of wax. DID the deed and ran back out to surf.

Went after another wave and weeeeee left all the way home. I was so happy.. it was a small wave, but it was a wave...and it was fun.
THEN I caught a few more... BUT then.. I went after a rather big wave, I don't know how big it was, BUT I usually don't go after these, Everyone else paddled towards it, no one went after it. Looked like it was gonna be big, coming in from the outside. WAY outside, and I decided I am gonna go for it. Words of advice from my 19 year old surf buddy I work with, went through my head. DON'T BE AFRAID OF BIGGER WAVES! Go for it! IT was at least 4' maybe bigger??? I catch it, and think for a brief moment I am gonna wipe out. I pop up, as I am rising up..and I STAY UP!.. it lifts me, it drops me and I rode that all the way to the shore. My heart was thumping I was so excited. I have to say I think that was the best REAL wave of my life. However I expected everyone to be as excited as me..but I guess I just looked like a surfer. I scan the shore for my husband I see his red shirt, so I know he saw it. I paddle back out to Artie, but she kind of missed it. She knew I caught a wave, but didn't see how big it was. OK from that point on I was invincible. I didn't catch anything else like that the rest of the day. But I did get a few more fun rides.
I was excited to see Kori joined us too.. She paddled up to us..but I was almost ready to get out. Her first wave was a long right.. She said she needed that.It was funny I saw her go for the wave and didn't know she caught it then I saw her riding all the way to the shore what seemed like forever. I had to go in.. I surfed for 2 hours. I would have stayed even longer, I was on a surfing high..but when your paddling for a wave and you just don't have that umph anymore and your arms feel like rubber, It is time to go in. My husband ended up leaving while I was out there... BUT sent me a text message saying he saw me and good job. =) YOU would think my day could not get better. And of course that wave was the highlight of my day. I wish I could see what I looked like from shore. It may not be as great as it is in my mind. HA! But I don't care.

So for lunch I hang out down the Peninsula at our fav bar. Just to hang with Holly, the bartender, I only had one Bloody Mary, because we still have SUP at 4:30 and Happy Hour with my girls. BUT I know a lot of peeps at this bar and it is good just to see them and give everyone a hug. These are some good people and I love to see them from time to time. They are not the ones who stay and close down the bar, these are the peeps who hang for social time. James bought me some chili cheese fries for lunch( THANK YOU JAMES..they were yummy) and Holly kept me well hydrated with water that was never empty. As we were sitting chatting, the weather just started changing, got cold, breezy, and the fog rolled in. I thought Paddle boarding may be out of the question, and I didn't bring anything very warm. Sent a text out was still on.

We paddle-boarded in Huntington Harbor a good group of I think 15? Including Artie and Kori from earlier.. A whole gang of Wahine Kai taking over the harbor on paddle boards. It was fun and we did that for an hour. It was not as windy, and in the harbor it was more like a mist than fog. IT was actually kind of cool to paddle board through it.

Afterwards we all headed to Captain Jacks! We took up almost the whole lounge area, I had 2 coronas and a very tasty seafood Quesadilla. We all chatted and caught up. A few girls who did not paddle board joined us for girl time. A good time was had by all. I love these girls.. not all showed up and they were very well missed too. It was now almost 9 PM.. my day started I left my house at 6:45 AM. So needless to say I was pooped and it was time for me to head home....Great time all day with Great People...

Saturday, October 15, 2011

The Good Bad and Ugly of surfing this time.

Ha this pix is after I rode to the shore. My facial expression shows a lot of how I felt that day. BUT I was seriously just getting the hair out of my eyes. I forgot to clip it up. Also shows how big the waves were, and THIS was after the first hour when they were even bigger.

OK so I am gonna start by saying I am getting over basically walking pneumonia.. Finished my Z pack, and steroids and still puffing on my inhaler. Doc says I can surf If I felt up to it.. Yep don't have to tell me twice.( BUT SERIOUSLY lately if it is not one thing it is another) Well, Thursday and Friday were my days off and I surfed both days. AND I have good and bad to post about it.
I don't want to start this post off with negativity and no matter what I still had a GREAT 2 days of 2 hours each day of surfing. SO YOU Mr. with the green and turquoise board at Blackies on Thursday are not gonna ruin my stoke.. ASSHOLE!!!!... more on him later.

So Thursday. It is my husbands Birthday and I wanted to get to the beach early and it just didn't happen. I had to take my daughter to school and then hit 3 freeways to get to my local surf. So yep during rush hour..but this time it was more congested than ever. I have no idea why.. there were no accidents? ANY way took me over 2 hours to get to the beach. WTF? I may not be the best surfer..BUT I GOT DEDICATION! ANY way I get there and I am happy with what I see. A bit crowded for a Thursday but surf was good waist to a few head high. So I guess that is why everyone was there on a Thursday. I am beginning to wonder if people work any more,GEESSH!

The sun was so hot on this Autumn day, water was I say 64. So I decided to put the shorty on. NOW I wear this Spring suit way more in the Fall than Spring.. I am changing the name to The California Fall suit.

So, no one who meets me here. I always get intimated going out by myself and I am not a forceful fight for my waves type of gal.. and REALLY at Blackies you should not have to be. But it is crowded, surf is decent and a bit bigger than I am usually comfortable with. Especially by myself.

But I went out past the break..tried for a few waves went after bigger than I usually do and again, I am by myself. I wipe out a lot. Pearled more than I have in a long time, BUT I am totally stoked I did it. I was out there and I tried. I am getting braver. I did catch and ride two waves in from the outside. One time I had a wave, and BOOM 2 others come up from the left and we all ended up on top of each other. I joked, and said, um so is what considered a party wave? It was so crowded. BUT I have to say the vibe out there was a lot of tude. One guy. I swear he was trying to chase me away. One point when I was paddling back out he came at me and I swear he looked right at me almost in the eye, swung/turned his board at my head and whizzed right by my ear. DUDE almost cut my head with his fins..I can almost guarantee it was on purpose. REALLY do we have to be like that AT BLACKIES even? I said YOU don't have to be an asshole, I am sure he heard me. AND if you are all that and a bag of chips. GO surf with the big dogs down the street!(that I didn't say..just came to my mind as I am typing)

I stayed inside after that and caught a few small 2 footers. A little more comfortable and of course what I am use to. I also practiced in the white wash, which was pretty strong.
AND even in there I think I got in the way of some more aggressive girl surfers. I tried to stay out of the way and even apologized to one, she just gave me a dirty look. I could not believe the vibe that day..BUT I didn't let it get to me. I just moved.

Also, getting over bronchitis borderline pneumonia. I had a cough attack out there. AND since I have the bladder of a peanut. LOL. I for the first time ever peed in my wetsuit.. what TMI? Sorry .. thought it was some surfing right of passage..and wanted to share. I have never been able to bring myself to do it before. BUT I had no choice.. it just happened.

I still surfed for an hour. Then decided to go in. I had an apt. with my son to work on my shoulder. Which by the way is feeling much better! I was surprised I surfed so long without pain.
And again it was my husbands Birthday, and I wanted to get home before he did from his fishing adventure in the mountains.

THEN my friend Clair shows up and I decided to surf for almost another hour. She took a few pix of me. BUT decided to just sit on the beach. I again surfed inside. Caught a few fun rides.

So this picture is one Clair took of me, I was riding inside now. I was practicing my turning.
Regardless of some of the negativity of some of the peeps that day. I am glad I stuck it out. If I don't I wont get any better. WE all start somewhere. I have not done this for very long. I am not young spring chicken either. I don't know why some surfers want to chase you away. They were once beginners too.. and HONESTLY the the ocean is pretty big. I don't get it.

Also that day my friend Laura swung by when I got out the first time said Bolsa was closing out, But she surfed anyway. I also saw Rick. Seeing friendly faces at your break, make up for the not so nice ones that you don't see out there regularly. That makes it all the more worth it. =)

Wednesday, October 5, 2011

WHY do we do what we love even if it almost kills us?

Yeah so um anyway if you read my last post..I ran a 5K sick and then went surfing the next day..against the will of my husband who was worried about my health..So I went to the Doctor yesterday, Been sick for over 10 days and now..I have an annoying cough..thought I would just get some cough med, because the over the counter stuff and my all natural sunny days cough drops didn't cut it...and find out I have Bronchitis.. bordering Pneumonia..and NOW I am on some serious Antibiotics, Steroids and an Inhaler..Was told if I don't take my meds and rest. I will end up with full blown Pneumonia and prob a hospital stay...... I don't really like medicine and try to do things holistic style..BUT that did not work so much this time. AND I was shocked at how much medicine and pills I had to take. Yesterday in one sitting I had to take 6 pills and 2 puffs of an inhaler. WTF!? I called my pharmacist who filled the prescription and argued this cant be right.. I am gonna OD over here..BUT nope it was right. WOW!

...Even after that I was still gonna attempt a surf/camp trip this weekend up North and surf Mondos and visit the Avocado Festival. BEEN LOOKING FORWARD TO THIS ALL YEAR!!! My friend Tracy can't stop talking about Mondos and how much I am gonna love it. Plus I love Avocados and am in need of a good camp out.....

But my husband is ready to tie me up and throw me in the closet.. for my health and my own good....So I guess I better rest..


Monday, October 3, 2011

Taking it easy..slowly get back into yeah, right...

So Friday I take a trip to Blackies just to see the surf. I am saving my energy for Sat. and Sun. because I am getting over being sick.. Last time I surfed I got sick that night, and that was 10 days from Friday..and been sick since..So this top pix is of Blackies last Friday.. wish that was me out there..seriously looked like fun. Knee to waist high, fun little nuggets.. just my kind of ride.

But I had to save my umph for a 5K Beach Palooza in the LBC.. a little race we signed up as a surf club to do. So the following pix are just a few from that day. SO MUCH FUN! But it was hard and I was still hacking from being sick..BUT I did it.

Some how we ended up in the front of the line at the start of the race.. I am wearing a pink lei..Yes that is me with my mouth wide open in the back to the left..

I ran my heart out..but could not run the whole thing.. RUNNING in the sand is hard..and lets not forget to mention the obstacles we had to go through even fire jumping.

Just some of the girls from Wahine Kai who raced that day. We just sooo rock.

I finished and I am soo happy. My standing for my age group 40-44 was I came in 11 for my age >49:57.45 14:16/M and I am happy with it for being my first race ever.. being sick and NEVER ran in the sand before.

So yeah I wake up Sunday and I am sore and tired and wondering if I will ever move again.. I told the husband I am staying home and not surfing today, I just can't I have no more energy..but guess who got up and decided to go surf San O?
ME!! I text my husband and said decided to go to San O after all..His reply was "you are gonna end up in the hospital if you don't rest and you are still sick".. yeah I didn't listen. We had our Surf club end of summer party...although some of the Paloozers from the day before didn't make it..I did!

So San O..Waves are 2-3' I never surfed there before. My first time ever.

I can't believe how many people are out there. The paddle out is a bit farther than I am use too. But it was not so hard..My shoulder is still sore and I am exhausted and sore from yesterday and yep still getting over being sick.

So I caught my first couple waves on the inside to get use to this. They were fun and easy.
Later I did get out past the break..(the photographer left before that, so no pix of me riding in from there..and I did good too) I was a bit intimidated by how many people were out there, how far the paddle out seemed, and the waves look like they were so BIG outside. THE waves were so hard to catch, very deceiving.. I paddled my heart out thinking the wave was gonna break and nothing..SO much paddling for nothing. YOU had to work hard for these..but when you did.. and you caught one the ride in was long smooth and fun. I had so many lefts. BUT the paddling really did a number on my shoulder.. IT is very sore today. But all in all I LOVED it..I can't wait to go back to San O again. Um I think my chiropractor is not gonna be very happy with me though..I am still suppose to be "taking it easy".. "NOT pushing it."

So now today I went to work and rested. HA!

Tuesday, September 20, 2011

So what's a Surfer Girl to do?

So I had an unexpected nothing planned 5 days off! So as my title says.. What is a Surfer Girl to do? Well take 3 of those days and surf. Yeppers and that is what I did. First day, Since it was a last minute thing about my days off, I decided to clean my board and put a few clear ding stickers on some cracks and some fresh wax! WITH the shoulder issue I had to do that in long drawn out stages. But I was so happy when I was done. I sat in my garage just inhaling the wonderful smell of fresh surf wax. VERY intoxicating. SO next day(Friday) Loaded Tallulah in the Tahoe and headed to Blackies, after taking my youngest, the Diva to school. It was a bit windy and crumbly, but was 2-3 with a rare 4 coming in from the outside. I only surfed for 30 minutes, Did not accomplish a whole lot. Was more of a conditioning session I guess. I caught a few but very bumpy rides, really not a lot of fun. Also I feel less confident when I am out there without my girls, or not really knowing anyone. BUT better than nothing. My husband came to meet me for Breakfast since his morning trip didn't leave the dock. I could have surfed a bit more. BUT he really wanted to eat. So we did and when we were done.. The Beach was a windblown mess. SO glad I got out when I did.

So I felt good, Shoulder was sore but not as bad as I was expecting. Took advil did some stretching and rested it for the evening.I also applied some Salon Pas patches overnight. Helped the muscle ache part of the pain.

GOT up early the next day to meet some WK gals at Bolsa at 7 AM. A few of us Surfed South and some friends surfed on the other side of the bridge. A few other friends surfed North end and one, was one tower over where we were initially all gonna meet and surf. Even though we were not all together, WE all had a blast. Smaller than the day before, BUT not as much wind. Waves were fun and we surfed for about an hour. GOT 5 waves..2 waves I dedicated to 1) popping up and crouching and controlling my board, and 2) I went left then turned right... Just to see if I could.. AND I did. I was not tired, but shoulder and back and neck were starting to act up. THOUGHT hmm should get out, DON'T push it or over do it. IT was a good hour. I am happy I lasted. One of my friends was the last one out and I think she was in there for almost 2 hours. We all wondered where she was, but she was having so much fun. She didn't want to come in. Then she left with another girl to go paddle boarding after that. I wish I had her and some of my other friends stamina. ALSO I LOVED this surf sesh and I love surfing with my girls, We hoot and holler for each other over the smallest thing. BUT it really means the world! I have a lot more confidence when they are in the water with me and my surfing is sooo much better.

Sunday I rested. I almost went out and met the girls at Bolsa again. But really did not want to push the shoulder. But part of me is regretting not going, I think I would have been ok.

Monday, Went back to Blackies, Solo. My 17 year old went with me and watched, she had a Dr. apt that day.. so I took her with me first. Surf not so great, Just ankle biters as seen in picture below, was taken that day. A bit windy too. BUT not a lot of people out. I decided to get wet any way. YOU know what???I had fun, I was by myself, (well there were a few other peeps in the water, BUT I might as well been by myself) practiced my pop ups. Not a lot of inertia behind the wave, so made some short rides. BUT the vibe was good, there was some dolphins who made an appearance. I stayed out for 1 hour and 15 minutes. My daughter said on some rides I looked a bit shaky. I guess I need to work on that. Sometimes I ride like the wind, other times I look like it is my first day out. I think it is good to practice on bad days, and get something out of every minute. I am glad I did. Because even a not so great day surfing is better than not surfing at all.

Monday, September 12, 2011

So much to say.. so little space!

Ok I will try to get all this in. LETS start with this!

Yep Made it into a surf magazine.. AND not just any surf magazine..but my FAVORITE.. WSSM..sorry don't mean to brag.. but am very stoked about it. It is actually a Q and A written by my good friend about our club president and I was lucky enough to be in one of the pictures they chose...

Now onto this. LOOK WHO IS HOME! Picture of me and my son Branden who just got back from Afghanistan and came home to Cali for a little R & R.. and guess what I did with him.. ???
YEP took him to the Ocean and got him on a surfboard.

It felt funny teaching my 25 year old Soldier Sgt In the US ARMY how to surf. BUT what I thought was funnier is 30 minutes into it he says he is tired. WHAT? Hey we only just begun... SAYS the 40 something mom/grandma nursing a sore shoulder who has been out of the water for what over a these were very easy conditions, 1-2 footers, with a very easy paddle out and lots of lull in between sets. I thought you were Army strong ;-)?..He liked it, never really popped up but did get to his knees and was catching his own waves and was out past the break with me. HE tried. One time I just surfed right past him and said what you letting your mom pass you by? BUT it was all in good fun. He had the biggest smile on his face when he caught a wave all the way to shore rode it like a boogie board, He didn't pop up but who cares,He was having a blast. WE did surf for 1 hour and 40 minutes. They blackballed the beach and I figured that was a good time to go in. Especially since my Doc said 30 to 45 minutes at a time. I was in for 1 hour and 40 minutes. BUT a lot of that time I was explaining to my surfing soldier what to do. I LOVED every minute of sharing something I love with my oldest child. It was a great day!

So yep got back into the water. I had 9 day vacation and was only able to surf 1 of those days. I did good too, shoulder held up, so that is what matters. I did take Advil before and after and I was a little sore after, but not nearly as bad as I thought. I am now down to going to the chiropractor every other week. So yep getting better. MY son(the massage therapist) helps me a lot too.

Oh and the reason I was only able to surf 1 day.. was because I was so busy doing stuff with my son and his family, Catalina Island, Disneyland, Shopping, Park. Etc.. I am in need of a vacation from my staycation. But would not change a thing. Was gonna go surf Saturday AM..but we had that freakish storm... then Sunday I was just too tired. So I got my sleep on. Life is good right now. I am one Happy Surfing Grandma!

Saturday, August 27, 2011


I remember doing this thing I loved.. what is it called again???.. it made me so happy... It made stress go away.. it helped with my energy level and fitness.. LIFE WAS BETTER WITH IT!.. I NEED IT!! I am forgetting.. what it is.. OH YEAH SURFING!!! I think I am not gonna remember what to do when I get a board in the water again......Well at least I have my surf blog friends to remind me. Thank You!!

Saturday, August 13, 2011

Part 2 Tim O' Neil's Paddle Out

Nice tribute to a fellow Blackie Surfer! Hope he is catching Big Fish and Waves in Heaven!
Our contribution to the memory of Tim. My husband took an old picture from the fishing boat he works on. I blew it up to an 8x10 for him. My husband has known Tim for years. He use to chat with Tim in the winter at Blackies while I was out surfing. As I was going out, he was coming in.
This is how my husband and his fellow fishing friend Betty wanted to say Goodbye to their friend.
I think it is a nice gesture. I Can't say I have really "MET" Tim. But I surf the same break he did. I have seen him out there..and I believe he has given me a few pointers. while I was in the water. If I remember correctly, I think he is the one who told me how to lay correctly on my board while paddling out. TOLD me to keep my feet on the board. In the beginning I would occasionally use my feet to try and balance and they hung off the side of the board. Glad to say I have not done that since I was told not to.
My husband and few of our friends. A couple more showed up after we left. But obviously I didn't get their pix. There were also a lot of fellow surfing freinds of Tim.. the Fishing Crew didn't know the Surf crew. But They ALL knew Tim and Loved him dearly.

The Following Link is a post Surfline did on Tim... the best thing about all this.. He went out doing what he LOVED.. I hope when my time comes... I could be just as lucky!

REST IN PEACE TIM! Every time I am at Blackies I will think of you!

Part One of 8/13/11 Doc gave the OK for a paddle out!

Well I am making this a 2 parter because there are 2 separate issues today. My first day back in the water since my Doc approved it. AND a Tribute to a surfer name Tim. I want to give Tim his own post, so I will start with my getting back in the water in almost a month of being out of commission.

Wish the circumstances of me being able to get wet again were under happier times.

I wanted to paddle out for a fellow Blackie surfer and good friend of my husband. But we could not stay for the paddle out. We had a friend coming to do the wood floors and I had to be at work by 10 AM. I did my first Dawn Patrol I believe. Left house at 5:15. it hit the water by 6:30. I went out and did my own thing prior and said a prayer for Tim by where the paddle out took place.

It felt great to be back in the water. Conditions were yucky. inconsistent 2' not really all that great and low tide.

I paddled out and it was not a long paddle out and easy. I was grateful for that. Since the shoulder is still not up to par. THE doc said I could paddle out for 30 to 45 minutes. BUT not to push it.

I caught every wave I went after a total of 3. But the rides were short and bumpy. I did good paddling for the waves. First 2 no prob. I felt I really sucked though took me a while to get up. I felt fine paddling for the wave. I think because that is what I was concentrating on. When I went to push up ..that is when I really felt the pain in my right shoulder/back. After the 3rd wave and about 30 minutes. I was almost in tears again. Burning and pulling sensation down my arm. Also sitting out there and looking over my right shoulder hurt my neck too. Those two areas are what hurt the most. It killed me to carry my board out of the water. Thank goodness my hubs was there to carry it to the Tahoe.

Well At least I did that..and got my gills wet.. and MY HUSBAND said "hey you are a lot better than last time I saw you, and you are getting up faster." I said "really and today I felt I totally sucked. I didn't even really ride a wave. I am much better than what you just saw." SO that made me happy! I got a compliment from my hubs who has not seen me surf in quite some time. SO I guess I am progressing quite nicely. today I didn't have any fun lefts... I was a bit bummed about that too!

After I felt all my therapy went down the tubes, I was in the same amount of pain as before. Killed me to pull off my wetsuit. I was so frustrated!! I guess it takes time to heal...ugggghhhh! Came home and took a nice soak in the tub and some Ibuprofen and feeling a tad better now.

OH and the new wetsuit..I went one size up.. just a tad to big..but usable. I guess I am in between sizes ..So I either need to lose weight to fit into one that I cant zip, Or gain weight to fill in my new one just a bit. LOL

AND I also learned, I can get to the beach and back and still make it to work on time. IF I want to drive over 70 miles round trip for a morning surf sesh.. OH this could be a bad trick I just learned.. ;-)

Monday, August 8, 2011

Still Out of Commission =(

So the shoulder is still not working.. been going to the chiropractor for a week now. My schedule is every other day. Some things feel better and some things feel bruised and feels like the pain is traveling, as he is working on one area, the next day I feel pain in another. Apparently I am pretty out of sorts... 2 pinched nerves in the neck. 2 ribs out of alignment a few discs out of whack. I guess that is what happens when you get thrown off your surfboard when you are in your 40's. BUT even though it hurts to lift a 1 liter water bottle with my right arm... AND... I have been put on hiatus from surfing and running till further notice. I still want to go out in the water even if it is for 20 minutes. I AM DRYING OUT HERE! I need it!

I think I may attempt a lil something tomorrow just to get wet. Doc did approve for me to attend a paddle out for my husbands friend this Saturday. Just wish it was happier circumstances to get on my board.

Any other surfers frequent chiropractors? I would like to hear from you and your stories. This is my first chiropractic adventure and was not sure about it. GUESS I am or was expecting immediate relief. ALL I have to say it Thank Goodness I finally got some health insurance and he takes it.

Thursday, August 4, 2011


Say hello to my lil surfing friend. aprox 200lb 8' thresher shark..with probably a 6' tail.

OK so my friend took this picture while surf fishing..just on the other side of Newport Pier. hmmm I surf there from time to time.

Now Threshers are not "harmful" to humans and have a small mouth. But a few things here. 1) it is a wild animal and has teeth, 2)if that popped up next to me while surfing I would definitely need to change my wetsuit, 3) their tail is more dangerous than their teeth,,there is a folklore or old wives tale about a thresher sharks tail decapitating a fisherman..

..and yes I am still gonna surf there!

Monday, August 1, 2011

I have not posted lately, because I have not surfed, and this is why...

Well First off I want to start with I finally got a new 3/2, see pix above. It is last years model but who really cares? I got it on sale and I think that is great! Now if I can just try it out?!
This is why my epipen is in my surfbag! Allergic you ask? I was told deathly....
I was scanning surf blogs and online articles about surfing and this pix was in "hot shots" Yes those would be the meters at Blackies... YIKES..Thought I share with you.

OK so onto me and the why I have not been surfing, besides the fact.. surf really has not looked so great anyway. So I feel I am not missing much. BUT I have not surfed since my last post July 17th. One is my work week seems to be consisting of 7 to 8 to 9 days in a row work with an occasional 2 days off. ON my last couple days off, I went to the OC fair one day. It was fun, I suggest you try the chocolate covered bacon. I had a few Dr. Apts. Nothing serious, just routine. BUT I did have her look at my shoulder on one of these visits. Will get to that in a bit... I have been busy with a mini remodel of my living room. Then this past Sat. I went to the US open. It was the only day I could go, I REALLY WANT TO GO NEXT SUNDAY. But I have to work. Now before you all tell me to call in sick... My coworker had surgery today and it is just the 2 of us in our dept. So it is OK. PLUS first week of Sept. I have a 9 day vacation coming up and she has to work for me. =) Even if I didn't have vaca, it is still ALL GOOD!. Sunday I was considering surfing in the AM..but there is my shoulder issue. YES the same one! So I spent some much needed bonding time with my 17year old daughter. We both needed it!

AND back to my shoulder... well my Doc says she thinks it was a pinched nerve, and I have been doing what she says with the Advil 600 MG 3 times a day and applying heat, and soaking in a warm bath with Epsom salt. I have been BEGGING my son who is a massage therapist to work on my arm/back/shoulder..but our schedules are not in sync. I am trying to figure out where the pain actually is. Seem my neck has a sore spot, my shoulder blade, and the socket area of my shoulder too. With a burning that has turned into a pulling sensation down my arm to my wrist. Hence why doc thinks it is a pinched nerve. I don't know if one thing is causing all this pain. OR if it is 3 separate issues. NOW,I have 3 separate injuries from the past. SO I don't know if they just get aggravated or what.

The last FUN surf sesh at Bolsa is when I hurt myself last and... It is still not better. SO YES.. I finally made an apt. with a chiropractor for this Wed. Mostly because a co-worker had them call me. I guess I have been complaining about the pain for some time, he is sick of hearing me whine..also I am always rubbing my neck or shoulder walking through the golf shop. I am ALWAYS in pain. I can't run it hurts, and I finally got up to 5 miles, it has been about a month since I have ran, and I can feel a difference in my body. I can't do yoga..and don't get me started on weights even 5lb dumbbells. Now Me not being to exercise of course there is the weight gain, But I just feel better and now I am feeling sluggish and just Yucky! I need to be active..I am just not myself if I don't move!

So everyone can relax..I am getting it looked at again.

Between all that and not being able to surf. It is sad when your 14 year old says, you are always mean lately are you going through the change??

AND on that note ladies and gents I will leave you.!

Monday, July 18, 2011

Happy Surf Aversary To Me!

This picture is beautiful San Onofre State Beach!

Well I had a very busy surf weekend. A lot of fun things to share and Sunday was my 2 year surf Anniversary. YEP been surfing and blogging now for two whole years...with many more to come.

I was hesitant about surfing this weekend, sore and healing shoulder and all. SO I saved my strength for Sunday. I really needed to surf on my Anniversary. Last year I was on a plane coming home from Tennessee if you remember? So I missed surfing my one year Anniversary.

I was finally able to go to San O! But sadly,I didn't surf it. It was my first time ever at San O! to celebrate one of my friends/surf club sisters Birthday.We organized a very fun Surprise Party for her. WELL Artie did,She did an amazing job too! We just showed up to celebrate. She is a Ukulele player and is also the person who got me interested in playing. OH have I mentioned I have taken up Ukulele yet? I shall blog about that in a separate post. WELL any way I learned and practiced HAPPY BIRTHDAY for her. So strumming on my Uke, Chowing down on some snacks and watching my friends surf is how i spent Sat. San O looks like so much fun. I cannot wait till I can surf it! The paddle out looks a tad far. BUT that just means a longer ride in. THERE were so many lefts, I was drooling. My friend took my board out. So I can say Tallulah surfed San O. Even though I did not get to ride her. I was very tmepted to just go in and catch one or two on the inside. THEY still looked fun. But I just didn't want to risk pain to my shoulder. I was saving it for Sunday.

So SUNDAY. Happy Anniversary to me. Began by driving to Blackies, Where it All Started. I was hoping it would not be crowded. Sunday+Summer=Crowds at Blackies. It is not fun then. BUT since that was my "teething ring" I really wanted to celebrate there. OF course it was crazy crowded before 7:30 AM NO parking. AND seriously the surf was not all that great! I drove around two times, I had to at least go to the scene of the crime, even if I was not able to surf it.

So I met my friend Laurie and her friend Chris and we surfed Bolsa.

Really not a lot of action. Doable. With my shoulder that was fine by me. IT was not as fun as the last couple times I surfed there, but I did get a few lefts and a few pearls. I would get the wave my board would drop and it always wanted to go nose first. I really thought I was pretty far back on my board. Bolsa wave is so tempermental. HA! Even when small the drop is hard sometimes.

SO a couple things happened in my under an hour of surf. I was so worried about my shoulder, and those pesky stingrays. AND I still have these blister things from the Dermatologist. So I didn't want those to pop. I wore a shorty, IT was soo warm, water and air.The only full suit (that fits me) I had is a 4/3 and I would have died of heat exhaustion in that. I know I was suppose to wear a full suit. BUT.... SO I really was not 100 focused at the beginning. I think that is why I pearled and wiped out more than usual.

But I relaxed and started doing better. I had just paddled back to the break from a wipe out. I looked over my shoulder to talk to Laurie she was paddling back out to, and then when I turned to look back at the ocean... A FIN was in my face. LITERALLY at my board. IT WAS HUGE and I planked on my board, I about had an accident in my wetsuit. My friend Laurie was yelling DOLPHIN!! it is a DOLPHIN!! It's OK!! I was still not sure. I was looking under my board, and all around, I have no idea where it went. It was there and then gone. IT was seriously right at my board. I could have touched it. It all happen so fast too. Even though it was a Dolphin, and everyone says they are friendly. THEY are still a wild animal, and still HUGE and intimidating when right in your face. We decided it came up to say Happy Anniversary to me. Although I was a bit shooken up, I still think it was cool and exciting.

I caught my last wave in and rode that puppy all the way to the sand. The nose of Tallulah was on the beach. It was a nice,fun,fast left. So Yes I was stoked especially since it was my last ride. What a way to end an anniversary surf sesh!

WELL it wasn't over yet. HA! If you ever been to Bolsa you know there are most parts of the beach where you have to walk up and out of the water, not just right onto shore like most beach breaks. I was at a part where it is about a foot of incline to get out. This lil incline consist of soft unstable gravel type terrain that is still in the water. It is covered in rocks,course sand and shells. Well as I was trying to get out with my board ,I slipped. NOT once but twice. The second time, I was hit by some white wash and my board fell on top of me and I got a bit tossed. RIGHT THERE in less than a foot of water. By the time I got out, my legs were scratched up and my left leg was dripping blood. I am sure it was quite entertaining. I know my friend Laurie's surf partner Chris thought it was. He just sat there with his head in his hands shaking his head..BUT he did say NICE Ride in. HA!

This is my mangled (what is the surf name for road rash?) LEG!

Yep at this point I think I may start looking into a wetsuit that is lined with bubble wrap!

This is my happier commemorative 2 year anniversary pix. After I cleaned up the leg!

Friday, July 15, 2011

Don't Forget the SUNSCREEN!

OK So I went to the Dr. yesterday(why am I telling you this? Because why I went is somewhat surf related) to get a mole looked at, and have her check out my sore, shoulder. But I am not a big fan of the scale she had me stand on.. NO wonder my wetsuit is uh hum.. "snug" YIKES!..No more after surf scarf down food sessions for me. ANY WAY.. SHE sent me to a dermatologist. WHO saw me right away. MUCH to my surprise!!I will get to all that in a minute. I want to start with my Shoulder.

I apparently had one or two ribs out of alignment.. I was oh no, it is my shoulder, she said can I give you a bit of an adjustment? I said sure. Then she had me lay down a certain way. I heard cracks and pops and I felt a little better. SHE said see ribs. =) BUT I also have a pinched nerve too. I was putting ice on. She wants me to put heat. My shoulder and neck area still sore. BUT not as bad and I feel A LOT better since she did her maneuver on my ribs. I don't know if you remember in my last post??? I said I hurt my shoulder and felt something pop.. WELL guess it was my ribs. The pain started in my chest to my back and I also had burning sensation shoot down my arm.(hence the pinched nerve) Still surfed though and tried to surf the next day. SO I say I am a trooper. I want to surf this weekend..but not sure yet if I will surf both days. SUNDAY is my 2 year Surf Anniversary, so I REALLY want to surf that day to celebrate. Don't know if I should push it on Saturday yet. We will see how I feel.

Now as for the mole. It is on my leg and I think I scratched it surfing and it scabbed up, then it healed. I am really not sure what happened? But that is what I think, I wanted to get it checked to be safe. Dermatologist wants to keep an eye on it for 3 months. IF ANYTHING changes before then.. She wants to remove it right away. SO that is where I am there. I have a history of Basal Cell Carcinoma, I have scars all over my back, and had one Pre Cancerous mole before. I have lost more than one loved one to Melanoma too. SO I take my skin care very serious. I am very good about applying the sunscreen or sun block and usually a 45. NOW THEY HAVE 100. The Dermatologist said 45 was good, but make sure it says Wide Spectrum and to apply every hour. So Dr's. Orders... ANY way. THEN she gets this blow torch looking freeze drying gun thing and starts attacking me with it. OUCH! I had never had that done before, SHE zapped me 25 times. NOT KIDDING..She zapped a bunch of sun spots.
So now today my arms, back, legs has 25 blisters on me. SHE did say I could still surf this weekend. I am wondering if it is safe, what if these things pop and I get "ocean water" in them, and they get infected? One cool thing I forgot to mention, is she surfs or use too.. and she told me she wants me to surf in a full suit and sun screen..SHE didn't say I needed to give up surfing or stay out of the sun. WHICH I thought for sure I would be lectured on. Especially after the attack I recieved with that gun thing.

Again why am I mentioning this?.. Because I care...SO APPLY THAT SUNSCREEN PEOPLE!