Thursday, December 24, 2009


Well I guess I should post something.
I did take Tallulah out last week. Yeah the swell was big..but I stayed really close to the pier and the kiddie waves.. haha.. Although they were big enough for me. Blackies was soooooo crowded.. I caught 3 waves.. one I rode in crouched..learning my board and wet suit. Second was a lot to be desired.. just trying to standing..but I was trying.. and the third.. I rode in like a boogie board.. in the white wash.. that was still fun!!!!
I think my board is fine.... I just need to get use to her.. a lot different than the foamy...
My wet suit.. well I think I have good news and bad news.. It was too big.. so the good news is I lost weight =).. however I still felt like a contortionist trying to get into the contraption. It felt tight to me.. but water somehow got into my arms.. so when I was paddling it felt like I had weights on my arms.. It really was a lot of work to paddle..not that I can paddle with grace as it was..but this made it a lot harder.. I really think I would have caught more waves if my arms did not feel like lead sinkers. LOL But hey.. that made it even more of a workout!
AND.. I HAD FUN!!! Came to the conclusion that is all that matters.
I met a few guys out there.. all so nice.. I am doing a lot less kook type things.. so I think I am looking more and more like a surfer. hehe So people actually speak to me and talk about the surf.. I never act like I understand everything they are saying, but I smile a lot and go home and look it up or ask one of my surfing friends later.
The one Kook thing I did, was set my board up against my truck instead of laying her on the ground..However that made me a new friend! I am a believer everything happens for a reason. OK so I really knew not to do this..but I didn't want to get Tallulah dirty. haha!
Seriously I just cant wait to get back out there.. I know with perseverance.. trial and error and lots of practicing.. I am going to get this. I feel more and more confident each time.. I do know if I lived closer to the beach.. or didn't have a job.. I would be out there a lot more..and I would be a lot better by now.
Any way..Surfing has become the one thing I dream about the most and just cant get enough of. IT has somehow taken over me.. It makes everything I do revolve around it.. exercise, eating, my whole way of thinking has changed..
I am very glad to have found this sport....or as I am beginning to think.. this sport found me.
Merry Christmas everyone! Hope it is a wet and wild one!

Monday, December 14, 2009



Say Hello to my first "real"board.. got a deal on Craigslist.. she is brand new! Now that I have had friends look at her and the guy I bought her from. All say the little flaw on her not a big deal.

I am so Happy my boards Ding is just cosmetic.. hooray. So I have my 9' board. And a new wetsuit.

Now I just need to try them out! I really did not think I would be surfing this winter.. just wanted to try it "surfing", thought I would do it through summer and be a seasonal recreational type surfer.. but you know.. I really love it in the water. Even if I am just paddling around out there. I am very happy with ankle biter waves.. I am getting better every time I go out there.. so winter a great time to practice..and get use to the thicker wetsuit and new board.. By spring.. I should be a lot more talented and comfortable with Tallulah, and a spring suit!

Hope Santa puts some surf wax in my stocking this year.. =-)

Saturday, December 5, 2009


So I bought my first real board today.. I named her Tallullah!.. She is beautiful. I love her..
BUT... after I got home I found a ding in the fiberglass. I am so bummed!!!!!! I have a call into the guy I bought it from. I hope he comes through for me!!!! I can't believe I missed it???? I really thought I looked at her pretty thorough. It has a flower design and the ding is in the design. It's very well camoflouged.
So wish me luck.. I will post a pix.. once I find out if he will fix her!
Keep your fingers crossed for me!!!! I feel like such a kook!

It has been a while

So .. I guess I have not blogged in a bit. But life has been so busy. I did surf on Thanksgiving.. and it was so nice, not much of a swell barely any waves..but I caught and rode one in..and I was happy about that..
I was loving just being out in the water and watching and listening to what was going on around me.
I could not believe at 7:30 in the morning how packed Blackies was. It was so crowded in the parking lot and in the break.
But I found a spot close to the pier, where it was not crowded and met some really nice people.
So I was happy about that. I just liked being out, in my spring suit non the less. I was enjoying the Ocean and everything. I was happy just being out there, even though I only caught one wave. =-).. Hey I never set out to shred it up or do anything crazy.. I am happy to paddle out and hang out as long as I enjoy myself and have fun! To me that is all that matters!

Monday, November 9, 2009


Just FYI.. I am in the middle of my son and his family's stay with us. I am busy enjoying my Granddaughter every minute I can. So I have not been surfing..and I have not been blogging. I have been working, planning and throwing a Welcome home get together for my son. Just enjoying all of them before they have to leave.
I know where my priorities are...and Family comes first. =-)

Wednesday, October 21, 2009

Still here

Yes I am still here.. just been EXTREMELY BUSY.. the soldier will be home in a few, and I am getting my house in order, .. my husband is working on a fishing boat. He is rarely home, so I have been doing most of this by myself, and with the help of my sons, when I can pull them away from their busy between that and so much more, I have been a bit busy and my time is the most precious thing..and there is just not enough hours in the day lately.. as I am typing this I need to get ready for work. LOL.. but I felt obligated to post something.

Since my last post I did get out one time.. Because I was short on time and had an appointment. I was only able to get in the water for an hour.. I did not catch a wave..but I still loved being out there. I was determined to make some time to surf. So I did..even if it was short.
I had a few people give me pointers..which I appreciate.. I love friendly surfers.. I have to admit... I don't think anyone has been unfriendly yet. If they have.. i just have not noticed.

I really want to get out this weekend..but I just have so much to still do, and since my husband has very limited days or should I say day off.. I have to make time for him too.

So I will do my best to keep all posted..and I will do my best to get out there a few more times before it gets cold.

Gotta run....will be late for work if I don't....till next post!

Saturday, October 3, 2009

Still Sick??

Hi All,
I just have to start by saying I woke up to good news.. my son is back in the USA!! His deployment is over and as he is not home yet, he is in the States, and I couldn't be happier.!

I didn't surf last week, I was so sick! Started Sunday after the Surfboards in the Sand event. I woke up with a sore throat.. lasted 3 days. Then turned into a head cold and I couldn't breathe.
So I couldn't surf last weekend, and the surf club I joined was having a end of summer party at San O.. I really wanted to go..but a week later, I still was not feeling good.

So another week goes by, and I feel a little worn, thought the congestion was gone. Just had the clearing of the throat symptom. No fever ever, I thought I was better really during this week. Did a lot of things around the house. Getting ready for my sons homecoming here, next month!.Because I just cant sit still and rest.

So I get all excited, Was going surfing Friday at Bolsa Chica for the first time.. was happy, got to fit my surfboard in the Jetta. New Surf, and I was going with the Pres of the new surf club...
So we get to the beach....looks perfect. a lot of pointers from Cathy in the car.. Was excited to get out there.
She asked me to show her my pop up on the beach before we get out... I show her, she says it looks good... made me happy I was practicing.. however again. MY pop up on the stable sand, living room wherever there is not an ocean moving under you... is completely different when I actually catch a wave.. But at least I know what I am suppose to do.

Well this was my 10th time out.. totally still a kook..but I was getting more comfortable with the whole thing.. can paddle out.. although this was a longer paddle than Blackies. ( Also, since had been two weeks since I went out last, and I think my body was a bit sore from being sick, paddling was a lot more work this time.) Understood the waves more.. the break was not as bad to get past. I could sit on my board without wobbling waiting for a wave. Learned how to spin my board around to catch a wave at last minute.. NICE.. Every time I go I learn something new and feel a lot more confident.


I started feeling woozy and dizzy, and the smell of the salt water was making me nausea.. ( first off two of the things I love about surfing.. don't laugh... is 1. the smell of the ocean and salt water, very refreshing... 2. surf wax.. Is intoxicating...almost want to wear it as a perfume.. mmmmm surf wax) Even though I only waxed a board once.. I have it in my surf bag, and just smell it from time to time..yum.

I was trying to figure out what was going on. I was not even out there 5 minutes. I just got there. I could not be exhausted from paddling out. So I think OK...mind over matter, I will just ignore this and it will go away.. I try to catch a few waves, missed them. I don't know if it is because it was a new wave, or I just had no strength to paddle. I was feeling sea sick on my board. I kept trying to shake it off.. Caught one wave.. inside..but still rode it and tried to get up.. was really dizzy, but still rode it to shore , kinda on my knees, kinda crouched.

I went back out and was determined to keep at this.. but I just kept feeling woozy,, I sat outside paddled around a bit....watched the other surfers..and thought.. I feel really weak and dizzy, I have not even been out here long.. sooooo i did the dreaded paddle of shame.. i guess it is called when you don't ride a wave in... back to shore, and sat down on the beach and watched everyone else. Cathy totally rocked, and so did Kim, I think her name was. (she met us there).. but I was not feeling good, so I couldn't really concentrate on much.

tried to drink some water,,,,,didn't make me feel good.

Came home, and seriously fell asleep on the couch..and I woke up ate a piece of pizza, and went back to bed at 5:30'sh in the evening.. I just was not feeling good.

Woke up this morning coughing/and a bit congested.. Really?????

I am so over this! Not surfing.. the dare it interrupt with my surfing!!!

Sunday, September 20, 2009

Surfboards in the Sand Event

Yesterday I went to my first surfing event. Surfboards in the Sand. It was a fundraising event for the surfrider foundation, sponsored by Pete Townsend(The Surfer, not musician). Anyone else go to this? I would like to hear your take on the day!

I went with the ladies surfing club I am going to join. What a great group of girls!!!!

Well the event was all about taking a history making photo of about 1000 or so surfers. I am not 100% sure where the photo will be published.

So I was surrounded by so many different type of surfers and surfboards, it was surreal..I am use to seeing the surfers I meet in the water, or here online. ha...Not out of the water, sweating on the beach!
Very interesting, it was hot, and we had 4 poses to do, and had to keep moving our club and our boards, for different shots. The best was the one they took from a helicopter. (so I took a pix of them taking a pix.) That is what this picture is.

Well I had a fun time, they had some booths and entertainment as well. I just stayed to take the picture and meet the ladies of Wahine Kai. We got a nice t-shirt, subscription to a surf magazine, and a rubber souvenir wrist band..not to mention got to be in a picture that will make history.. but the best part was.. the fact my fee to do all this goes to a good cause.. a donation to help keep our beaches and shoreline liter free.... so remember when you leave the beach.. don't just pick up your trash.. but have everyone who is with you pick up at least 3 or more pieces each..

KEEP OUR BEACHES CLEAN...It benefit's everyone!

Saturday, September 19, 2009

Some Firsts

Well....Friday I accomplished a lot.

So my husband and I set out early so I could take my still nameless new board for a ride or two. I decided lets head to Blackies since I hear there was a bit of a swell and I am still not experienced enough to attempt anything beyond what maybe 2' waves. I was comfortable with is my security blanket.

We get to the parking lot of the pier and it was already pretty packed. There were lots of surfers out there. Not to mention OMG those were big waves for me.. looked over 3'.. I was very nervous and was convinced I was backing out of this today.

I always text my friend and of course mentor Natalie, and tell her when I surf and where. So I tell her. Then my next text was. "aaaaah....waves at blackies look a bit scary...=(...I think Ill pass....and a lot of people..bummer". Well 6 minutes later I get a call from Natalie, She just surfed HB..and said she would come out and surf with me at Blackies, I tell her did you read what I just text you.. the waves are to big for me, I am not comfortable going out. She said no, the waves are not to big,, I will go out with you, be there in a minute. I get a call she is in the parking lot, and says yeah the waves are a bit big for you...I was all.. I told you..She responds with I am taking you out any first thought is great she is going to get me killed. Either by taking on too big of a wave, or pissing off one of the surfers who were out there, or just getting run over by someone...haha

Well we get out..and it was not so bad.. tide was high..and, the waves were intimidating...but not as bad as I she knew a few people out there, who were very nice.

Natalie takes me out past the break...a first for me.. did I mention... I really just play and have been learning in the white wash? Well that all changed yesterday. My first, first.

I was very worried about all the people out there...and I was worried about catching and getting on a bigger wave than I was use to. So of course I am already nervous, but I am also in deeper water.. I even saw bigger fish, and was praying nothing bigger was there looking for those fish. haha.

Well I have to tell you I caught four waves. Oh and the face of the wave, another first. You have a lot more time to figure out what you are going to do. One I kneed in. One I tried to stand and fell. One I actually worked my way to crouching, and stood, of course my footing was wrong, more of a lounge, but I rode that wave all the way in. I was very happy with that.. I think Natalie was too. I mean it was not graceful by any means...and the only way I can describe it was like a real old lady trying to get up. So yet again another first. I rode a wave in and I stood 3/4 of the ways through!

I also learned how to turtle, I have to tell you is a bit scary and the first time I attempted it I twirled around with the crashing wave and swallowed a lot of water. I also was not sure when I was trying to surface.. if I was swimming up or down. But I made it. I went to the beach to take a break, and I really felt like I was going to puke.. combination of getting tired, worn, and the swallowing of water.. I really don't know why I don't just shut my mouth when I go under. HAHA..

Well I went out again with Natalie who came to see if I was ok.. she said I had at least 2 more waves in me, and she would show me how to turtle properly. It is not easy to do with a foam board either.. I also hit myself in the head.. and was happy it is only a foam board.

Now my other first is I was out there for over 2 hours.. I never have been out that long before.. I never have paddled so much before either.. so I was getting exhausted. My arms were feeling like they were barely attached to me and were becoming like string.. honestly..they along with my shoulders and neck are still very sore.

So after my turtleling lesson.. I paddled out pass the break with Natalie.. I was so tired I am sure I looked like a wounded, sad excuse of a surfer.. and if there was something bigger like a shark chasing those fish.. I am sure i would've been the surfer "easy pickings" it would go for.

Well I make it out there with Natalie, she said OK one more wave and were done. I told her I felt so sick and I was going to throw up and I was exhausted.. could I just go in. We had to wait for a wave.. which took what seem like forever to finally one comes in and the last wave, Natalie pushed me into.. I paddled with my arms that were so ready to fall off, I caught the wave and seriously laid on my board and rode it in. I was too delirious to even think about popping up. I got beached and was soooo happy it was over.

Now don't get me wrong.. I felt like shit at the end of it.. and I did for probably 1/2 of the day.. and I am still sore.....

But...I accomplish the most I ever did, and learned a lot more...and actually rode in a wave and stood. Was my best day ever!

I hope this all makes sense it is way past my bedtime as I write this, I have so much to say..and I am exhausted. I got up early to go to a surf event at HB today. Which I will post about tomorrow.

G nite all and to all a G nite!

Monday, September 14, 2009

Me and my new board

Well I did it.. I got a used Costco board.. it was a great deal. It is something. I'm starting I keep saying, so.. whatever.

However, it is smaller than I am use to at 8' so when I first caught a wave. I ate it bad.. pearled right to the sandy beach floor.. YUCK.. and then I did it again. I swallowed more salt water and choked on more sand than I felt fair. I had to get out and sad I was sooooo excited about getting out there on my own board.

Well I kept at it..this surf session was basically getting use to the board. Finding my sweet spot.. I caught waves. Kneed it in, and rode it like a boogie board....

But forget popping up.. OH I did try, but I can't stay up... I felt the board catch the wave, and then I pull my chest up. (so not to go forward and down into the sand).. then I get to my feet, and don't get all the way up..and off my feet I go with some acrobatic freestyle falling, haha. I only really got up one time where I am happy about it my whole 8 times of surfing.

Well I guess patience and persistence is the key. I totally pop up when I am practicing on carpet.. but when the board is moving in the water, getting up and getting balanced... wow... not easy!

So my Hubby, who decided to surf fish, while I surfed.. took a pix of me and my new board. I know it is a bad pix.. but he is so impatient, I was lucky to get this shot!

Well that was my surf experience on my first board.

Tuesday, September 8, 2009

Keeping my fingers crossed!

Looks like I may be getting a board. =-).. It is a foam board.. but hey it will be mine... It is a killer deal... I am only beginning.. what more could a kook ask for?
I will keep you posted..I can't wait to hit the beach this weekend. I am seriously having withdrawals..I am even practicing my pop up on the living room floor, pretending the carpet is waves of some sort... The Imagination.. a wonderful thing.

Lets all keep our fingers crossed I get the board.

Wednesday, September 2, 2009

Ho Hum

Well I did not surf this past weekend. But I did go to the beach, I got to my surfing spot at 8:30 It was already packed....The rental place did not open till 9 AM.. I think they were about ready to black ball the beach by 9 AM it was so crowded. So, I ended up hanging out with a few friends. One friend and I took our daughters to a water park.. OK so she lives at the beach, I was parked and packed for the beach, yet we drive a few miles down the rode to a place that had simulated waves ...I am still questioning that myself. LOL...

Since this weekend is a holiday weekend. I know the Beach is going to be crazy packed. I don't think I will be heading out there.
So I will probably be going 2 weeks with out surfing..Phooey!

I did get a book on surfing, It is quite interesting... to help me out a little. "The girls guide to surfing." They didn't have anything like the "Grandma's Guide to surfing".. or "Grandma's gone crazy and started surfing"... HAHA... Even though I am not going to be out there. I will be reading about it, and still learning. But who knows I may get a hair up my butt....and brave the crowds and catch a wave or two.

I also may go shopping for a board.. or at least see what is out there.

Well this was the first week back to school also.. So I am not sure if there are any school projects that need to be addressed this weekend either. We will see.... come what may!

Sorry for the not so exciting post. But I felt i needed to post something.. I said I would do this everyday.. But I am trying to stay true to every week!

Well... cowabunga dudes and dudettes. See ya in the surf!

Friday, August 28, 2009


Well I was planning on hitting the beach today.. it is my typical Friday routine almost. But my 12 year old talked me into taking her and her sister Ice skating.. we are contemplating that thought now. Since it is going to get very hot were I live, about 107 today.. oh but yet cooler than yesterday when it reached 109.

I dream of being able to live by the beach one day.. and just be able to grab my board whenever I want and hit the ocean....aaaaaahhhh one day.

Any way.. I have decided I have spent enough money renting a board. I think I am pretty much addicted to this thing called surfing. SOOOOO I am looking into (for a beginner) buying a 9' board. I was thinking of getting one of those so called Costco foam boards..but when you research them....they seem to be pretty much hated by the surfing community for a number of reasons.. Don't want to list them all...but basically, moral, safety, and environmental reasons.
So since I am just entering into this community of surfers...last thing I want to do is piss anyone off.

So I have been looking on line at used and new long boards.. range from $200 on e-bay..into the $800's.. wow.. I think I am looking for something a bit more in the $200 range for my starter board.. But it gets soooo confusing. Fun board for a beginner, long board's of all different makes. I thought a fun board was a long board. I am at awe at how many styles and sizes of boards there really are.. It is really quite interesting.

Anyway... if anyone locally.. in the Orange County, Ca area.. has any leads on a decent used board for a beginner 40 something old Grandma.. I would love to know about it. I would also appreciate any advice on buying a used board. What to look for, etc. etc.. I will also need a type of surf rack for a Jetta.. since my hubby does not like me taking the Tahoe all the time.
My budget is a bit tight...So I don't know how much of a reality this will be...... However as Natalie pointed out.. I probably could've bought a board with how much I am spending on renting one almost every week.

So that is my cry out to the surfer community... help and guidance please!

I am planning on getting out in the ocean sometime this weekend.. Maybe Sunday morning. I will see.. I know I have to get out there.. I just cant stand not being in the ocean and is all I want to do.. I don't know why..but I guess there are worse things I could be addicted too.

In other non related surfing news.. I just received an E-mail from my son in Iraq.. who is packing to come home....Not only is he returning to the states from his deployment.. he is coming home, here to Cali ..In November..he sent me his flight itinerary.. he will be here with my daughter in law and my Grand baby... I am the happiest surfing grandma around. I just had to share..because I am soooo excited.

Any how.. I will update on my status if I get out this weekend.. but if anyone can respond to this blog with much needed advice.. I would be so grateful..

Friday, August 21, 2009

What would you call today?

Well.. I headed out early today.. Surfboard.. check.. Bathing suit.. Sunscreen.. check.. wetsuit.. check.. Beach.. check.. Waves.. um waves.. hello where are the waves??? what waves?? More like ripples. I seen lakes with more waves. For all intentional purposes, I set out to surf today, I did bring the wrong board, just in case the surf report was right.. and it was.. But was willing to rent a foamy if need be. Not worth it!

So what would you call what I did today.. Paddling! Yep I basically was out in the ocean paddling. I worked on other things too.. like trying to catch a so called wave. Funny for as flat as it was..I am not sure why, it got crowded in the "surf" by 9AM.. But some people (not all) were catching what waves came their way. I told a lady I was more interested in what her and another lady, about my age were doing. I was watching them, and their form. I figure watching was part of learning, and I would learn more from females my age, instead of the 10 year old surfing girl & her dad who dominated the surf. Even though they were entertaining to watch. Any way, she was nice. She did inform me I had the wrong board.. I did know that. I just thought,I bring it out and paddle and what the heck. Again, it just was not worth going to rent a board. Maybe I should have.. but I decided to just play in the ocean.
It felt nice to go out past where everyone was waiting for some sign of surfage. I paddled, got some exercise even just laid down on my board. It was peaceful to just do that.

The good News, I am not tired, or worn out, or sore.. But for some reason.. I still got bruises on my knees, as always, and my arms.(who thought surfing without really getting to surf would still be so brutal?)
Even though, I was on the noticeably wrong board for me.. (which I am beginning to think, screams kook, more than a foam board, )I caught 2 waves. First one is not worth mentioning, I caught it tried to pop, and off the board I went. Second one I actually rode in...crouched..not kneed, of course I did not stand either. I was happy with that. Not to shabby for my 6th time out and only surfing for a whole month as of this week.

The weather was nice it was sunny in the morning, the water was perfect. Clean, not to cold, refreshing.. but Ironically when I decided to just rest on the beach. It got black balled, before 10 AM on a Friday, and the weather was starting to change.
I went and got some breakfast, walked the pier...Started to head home around 11 AM. Then I get a call from my Hubby (who works on the Fishing boats around the corner) he called me to meet him for a drink,So I did.

By the time I met him.. it was getting overcast and looked like it would drizzle. Perfect timing.

So all in all, not too bad of a day, I did get some exercise and alone time, I was in the Ocean on a surfboard....

But I wouldn't call it a Surfing day.

Saturday, August 15, 2009

Taking this Weekend off

Hey all..
Well I have to say, I decided to take this weekend off. I really hurt my back last Friday. So I think I need to recover a bit. So what exciting things did I do this weekend???? Take my Daughter shopping for back to school.. and got caught up on things around the house.
ALTHOUGH...passing the sticks in my garage.. It killed me to walk by and know I wouldn't be on them =-(...even though there is only one I would consider getting on.. (my friend swears he has yet another board for me to try, bigger.. Because this one is really not the right one... But I trust and have faith in my Natalie who will point me in the right direction where a board is concerned, she feels I am not ready to wean off the embarrassing foamy now).... I only been out 5 times.. so I am not too concerned about it just yet. I do see others on foam it is not too bad.

I was even thinking of just taking the board in my garage out past the break and practice on my paddling..but I guess I will give it a rest for the weekend.. but plan on going out next weekend.
Hopefully I will have more to report then!

Thanks for reading and all the support.. I am actually very surprised at everyone who reads this...quite a few people...WOW..they don't all comment or are followers. But I get shocked every time someone talks to me about what I post.. and I am flattered when they ask, so when is your next post going to be? Thanks everyone!
I will do my best not to let you down!

Friday, August 7, 2009

Surfing on a real board...ouch!!

Well I surfed today.. and my friend and "Free" and very much appreciated surf instructor Natalie came out with me. I learned a lot!! I feel like I was totally beaten up today by the waves. ALL new experience for me today. I was in 3 foot waves.. on a real board.. with wave after wave after wave. the sets were coming in fast. Last week I was waiting for waves today.. just too many.
I ended up renting a foamy.. more familiar and comfortable. May not have been so bad if the waves were not as big and they just never stopped coming. I feel I spent most of my time in the water jumping on coming waves than surfing them.. if that makes sense. I really feel the ocean beat me up today.. LOL. I messed up my back and have so many bruises.
Well it was a whole new experience on a real board..not the right type for me. The board was not was lighter, and it was shorter than I was use too, and I was not comfortable on it..and the beach/ocean was a lot different today than the last couple times I went out. That made for a whole new experience.
I did learn how to wax a board,,and that there is different types of wax for water temp. and you need a base coat and a top coat..........and it is a lot of work to just do that.
I learned balancing on a real board is harder and different. I tried though....and I tried.. but I needed a foam board, I was getting beat up and tired. I can't believe how many bruises I have. LOL
I also learned why my pop up sucks..I was doing more of a lounge and putting a lot on the back of the board.. I think I got it now.
Good news .. My new wetsuit was perfect.. It felt OK and better than the rental.
So today ....tough the surf ate me up and spit me out...LOL. but I learned a lot more... It was only my 5th time I guess I am on track..
I didn't die. Just a bit bruised sore and very tired.

Don't know when I will get back out maybe in a week..But as hard as it was.. I am definitely doing it again!!!

Thursday, August 6, 2009

Miss me

I know I said I would blog every day or there about...But I have been busy, last weekend went to San Francisco to help out with 2 bus loads of foreign exchange students. I will Blog tomorrow night.. I am going to attempt surfing on a "real board".. So if I survive.. I will let you know about the experience...
I am sure tomorrow will be an entertaining blog.
till then..

Friday, July 31, 2009

My Killer Deal! My first surf related purchase! My second skin for the next couple of months!

Surfing Today

I must say I was a bit disappointed..not discouraged, but disappointed today. Did not stand, well I guess once...kind of. My pop up leaves a lot to be desired. I am slow. Also the surf was sooooo crowded. I can't wait to get my own board...(soon young grasshopper soon!), then I won't have to surf at crowded Blackies in Newport. ugggg. Seemed like a lot of old experienced long boarders were out.. but I have to say the tween's and those speed boards dominated. I feel so embarrassed to see the 10year boy whiz by me like he came out of the womb with a surfboard in tow. Yet here I am struggling to catch a wave... let alone stand. Not to mention this is the first time I brought my husband to watch me,, who told me I really sucked. I was great, thanks for the support honey. Now let me see you try this???? This really was not one of my better attempts at this sport. I guess you have your on days and your off!

If it sounds like I am complaining .... I am not. Two things.. (First) I am getting better, I see improvement in some things. Also there was a lady out there today who was a mom, maybe could be a grandma. She said she has been doing this for three years. I felt our surf ability was in the same ballpark.. I never saw her stand. She did catch a wave or two, and she kneed it. I kneed it a few times to, when I could get a wave.
(Second) A bad day surfing is better than not surfing. I was still in the water, still able to work on paddling, sitting on a board, watch the people who are popping up, and learning to judge the surf. Just watching and learning in general.
I was in the water for about an hour... I didn't feel like I was getting tired. It was really just too crowded. I don't think the last couple of times it was that crowded, and the surf in general was not so great. Last time I went out aabout a week ago last Wed. Surf was so much better. Right before the Big Swell. Some things seemed easier to me catching a wave.

Well it was only my 4th time out.. I don't know if I am on track or not. It would be nice if someone could tell me this.

But I do have some good news... my friend, surf teacher, and all around great person, Natalie. Called me last night to tell me she found a killer deal on a spring suit, my size. So today, after surfing, went to the store, found it, tried it on, bought it. My first suite. Ya is last years model.. or something like that, but I don't care, it is still brand new, Body Glove and was 40% off. Got it for under $50... Who's complaining.. not me.. I am stoked.. That made my day.

Next my own board...

Thursday, July 30, 2009

My first wave

So I forgot to post a picture of my first time surfing.. this is my first wave, after the pearling experience! I look so scared!!.. That is Natalie in the background..she looks so proud!

My First Time Surfing

So as promised.. here is my blog about my very first surfing experience!!

Natalie said she would teach me and we made plans for Friday July 17th to meet at 8:30 AM.

As I announce this to my friends...I get so many responses..from there are sharks in the water, you could drown, or the surfboard will hit you on the head and knock you out..(Ha to them...started off on a foam board..but it did hit me in the head), to do you have your Dr. on speed dial and do they have a room ready for you at the hospital.(I am known for my accident prowess) I also was told Giant squid are here.. (which was true, my husband is a fisherman, and that was rather exciting news for the fishing community)...not so much for a first time surfer, who was already feeling the anxiety of everything that could go wrong, build inside of her.

Regardless, you only live once and I was going to do this.. I always wanted to and if something was going to happen to me.. well I guess it would happen to me anyway if I was or was not on a surfboard in the ocean.
I was so excited I seriously could not sleep the night before. I felt like a kid going to Disneyland..Really I am going to go!!

Now it is Friday July 17th.. and I am leaving my house at 7:30, traffic on the freeway is horrible and I would hit morning traffic. I get to Natalie's house exactly at 8:30 AM..may have been 2 minutes early actually. She was on her patio at her beach house waiting for me. I pick her up and we proceed to go a few blocks and attempt to look for a free parking spot. We Scored, 24th street I believe.
So we walk to the pier, and Natalie shows me where I am going to rent the board and my wet suit. She looks at the water and says this is what is called flat. I saw a few little 1/2 ft. waves, and wondered wow how am I going to learn to surf on that?
We wait for the place to open.. and I am so anxious. I thought I may lose my breakfast. I ate lite just in case.
Place opens I get a full suit, and a bright yellow 9' foam board. (screaming beginner on the beach, Look at me,i am sure). But I didn't care I was feeling good and I had Natalie.

So we head to the sand..Natalie taught me how to carry the monster of a board (which if I did not exercise somewhat I would not be able to do, it was heavy and akward.)
She lays the board on the sand and proceeds to explain some things to me. What each part of the board is called and the front of the board is like stepping on the gas, and the back is like the brakes.
Explains the different type of surfboard and what they do and why it is best to start with a foam board and a 9' board. Then she shows me how to lay on the board, body placement and feet, and where my hands should be, especially where they should be when I catch a wave and pop.
She tells me to get on the board and try it.. on the sand.. and starts with paddle paddle paddle, and then pop up.. I try it and first words out of Natalie's mouth are you already fell off the board. HAHA. I apparently took to long. (good thing I was only on sand)!
So after my "land lesson", I get to put my full wetsuit on. OK, so putting a wetsuit on...not as easy as one may think.. like putting on a second rubber skin. (even though my rental was a bit big on me).
We or should say I pick up my board and we head to the water. She asks to pretend the board is a skate board and what would be my lead foot? So I attach the leash to the opposite foot.

Entering the water. it was cold , but very clean and there were a few people out and Natalie pointed out how many people besides me were beginners. So I did not feel so bad.
Well I learn how to take my board out over those little waves,that did not seem so little with my huge surfboard. I tried carrying it over my head, I think I almost knocked Natalie down trying to carrying the board and not get knocked over by the whole 1' waves if they were even that. Then I dragged my board backwards over the waves while keeping my hand and pressure on the tail.
So I get on the board in the water and... I fall off the board. It is much different than you think, just trying to balance on the board laying down was a lesson in itself. I learn my placement and get a few instructions and Natalie pushed me into a wave. WOW fun.. I'm riding a wave like a boogie board.. wait.. what???? aaagghh I go forward,and end up with a mouthful of sand, salt water in my eyes, down my throat and the board is on top of me. I did not position myself properly, and I went nose first into the sand... also known as pearling.. well I had my lil white wash.. I could not imagine doing that on a wave and falling down.. which apparently happens to the best of surfers. Note...Pearling not fun!!!

So I get my board and try again...again and again, no I did not get deferred, I was persistent. This is with Natalie pushing me into the waves,I have not even caught my own wave yet. But..during this time I did stand, for a millisecond and more than once. Then One time I actually stood and was on, and as soon as I realized oh my I am up and surfing.. I was off ...but that one less than a minute..that one wonderful amazing moment in time.... Was the best, most liberating, freeing unexplainable feeling.

Natalie said people usually don't stand on their first lesson, even for a millisecond. She was so proud of me and said I took direction very well and I impressed her. I was doing good. I impressed myself. I finally started learning how to catch a wave..and I kneed it, but catching my own waves, I never could stand again. I was getting worn and tired and I didn't have much sleep the night before. I really didn't want to stop.. but my body said enough lets rest we went in..then my daughter had to try. 12 years old, second try and she rode the wave into shore..and her third - eighth time.. "whatever"!!!!!

This was my time, this was about me.. and I was so Happy,, I was on a surfer high. I was happy, euphoric, and tired and,.... starving.. I could not believe how Hungry I was. WOW. We were out there for about 2 hours. It really didn't seem like it.. but it was.
Well I was very sore and tired. When I got home, I took a long soak in an Epsom salt bath, Rubbed my Absorbing Jr. on me, took some Advil.. and rested the rest of the day.
But..all I could do was think and talk about my first day surfing. I was on "wave 9" still am actually.
I just could not wait till I could get back in the water....and you know what I had 6days of work.. and even though every muscle in my body hurt. I went surfing every other day, 3 days in one week. I went without Natalie, but I just practice everything she taught me, and kept going over and over it. Especially paddling, and catching waves. I never did stand again.. but I know I was pushing it and not giving my self time to really rest.(Not to mention my bad back.) I know I will, it will take time. I have heart and am strong willed. I didnt want my days off to end, I knew I had 8 staight days to work days ahead of me. I was not happy about that.

All I could do was count the days until I had a day off to go again..
you know what? That day is tomorrow. Guess where I'll be?

Wednesday, July 29, 2009


Well I know a lot of people want to know why surfing, and why now? I am sure they want to hear about my time on the water too.. (Right now..not too much to report.) Just learning you know.. but gotta start somewhere.( my next blog will be about my first week of surfing)..this is about WHY!!!!

Well I have always wanted to surf...Grew up in the OC..was at the beach a lot. Was young tiny and cute...Probably would have easily been able to get a hot surfer to teach me. (hindsight) But there didn't seem to be as many girl surfers as there are today. It was the 80's. I did have friends who surfed and one actually offered to teach me ahem.. Tim, but I grew up in a "strict" to say the least house hold. So...I had to choose my free time wisely..and I don't know why I never chose to take Tim up on his surfing offer.hmmm???? maybe because I knew the people raising me wouldn't go for it.. I was not allowed to do anything. I would probably get beat if I touched a surf board..

Any ways what... a couple decades later here we are. Met a bunch of friends who surf and travel everywhere surfing. I am here still thinking about wow how much fun would it have been to learn to surf. I could probably keep up with a conversation with them if I ever bothered to learn (Did I mention these friends are all young and cute and look they probably been born surfing.)I feel A little out of place in my 40's.

Then I heard about a few women who started surfing in there 40's and 50's .. One lady I heard for her 50th birthday.. took surfing lessons.. I am not sure how long ago.. but still surfs every chance she gets. I assume she is at least 55 now. Anna (my therapist at the time) (don't judge,,I have seriously been through more than my fair share in this life)...was telling me about her and gave me encouragement.

Then I researched surfing schools last fall.. and read more articles on line about people and grandma's learning to surf.. I thought i am a grandma..could I really learn how to surf...and at my age?

So every now and then I joke I want to learn to surf..and at first my husband was uh huh... you never start and finish anything. yada yada yada.. you are too old.. Wait what, did he say.. I AM TOO OLD???? Oh no he didn't.I mean it was OK for me to think that.. but my husband to say it out loud??? Later he thought it would be cool if I "tried" surfing.

So I mentioned it to some friends (the young surfers I mentioned) & said I was thinking about taking surfing lessons. They said Natalie should teach me.. she is a teacher in general.. and good surfer... and she teaches people to surf all the time.
I have to admit I was a bit embarrassed. What if I make a fool of myself..& cute lil young Natalie, would want to be seen on the beach with middle aged, not in perfect shape, accident prone me? Wouldn't she be embarrassed?

Well come December (I have to mention this)..I got into a car accident.. a 17 year old ran a red light while we were turning on a green.... I saw the car coming straight at us, so I stiffened up and was twisted, watching the car hit us..I was the only one in our Tahoe who was injured.. Didn't realize it at the time.. but oh did I feel it the next couple of days.. and I still do. This was around Christmas time.. I was planning on taking surfing lessons in the spring,.,.I have to say after I got injured.. I was very disappointed thinking great I will never get to learn to surf.. not with this back.

Now it is July.. My back is still whacked..but is better. Physical therapy.. and some bike riding has helped a bit. Mind you anytime I do anything.. my back still is sore, I live on Epsom salt baths, salonpas patches, absorbing Jr., Icy Hot, and occasionally a muscle relaxer..(yes I feel and smell like a Senior Citizen) after the accident it was a lot of vicodin..yuck. Now, I try to manage my pain without meds.

Well, I thought I am not going to let this back injury get the best of me.. So I asked Natalie if she was serious about wanting to take me out. She was and we did.

I don't really know if it is like a midlife crisis....or if now my kids are older, and I have a bit more time for myself.. but I am starting to finally do things for me. Like this blog...and my new hobby surfing. I also am considering going back to school.. maybe just take some classes at a Jr. College.. after all I have 3 kids in college they can help me now ,well one is in the army and in college.... but shouldn't they be the ones doing this? Living their life.. LOL..but here I is like.. now is my turn. I was married and had kid after kid after kid.. right out of high school. I never had time for me.. or time to try things or people supporting me and encouraging me ..I was the one supporting everyone else. Now it is different...I am going to quote a Red Hot Chili Pepper song.. "This is my time this is my tier". blog.. my surfing experience and how it makes me feel!

Monday, July 27, 2009

Why Blogging?

So I have decided to start a blog, why? Because one of the things I want to do is write. I have a lot to say. I get idea's and inspirations. yada yada yada ... and things come to me when I am getting ready for work, taking a bath, riding my bike or just cleaning my house.. and all of this while no children or husband is around. Very Zen like times when my mind gets to relax, which in my life seems very few and far between =-). I do find when things come to me, it is never when I have a pen or paper on hand, and have considered carrying around a tape recorder, like columnist or real writers do. But that also will not work when I am in the ocean on a surfboard..aaaah my new found love. (something I will blog about later).

What brings me here? Well, you know every women after they turn 40 decides " I want to write". " I have so much to give". SO where do they end up? Where do they start? On a blog of course.

My mind goes in so many different directions all the time, and so do my moods. (Although I think I've tamed my inner "Sybil") which will make this interesing, SO... I go a blogging.. are you entertained yet?

I assume someone out there is reading this. If that is the case, I guess I should tell you a bit about me. I will start simple.. I was born in January in the year 1967in Chicago Illinois, during a horrific snow storm, to a mom and dad, who I would end up never knowing....
Psych.... I really wont go that far back.. but that is all true.
Seriously My name is Michelle. I am a Mother of 5 and Grandmother of 1. I'm over 40 and love the great outdoors, getting to know and listen to people, out to save every animal, and I am obsessed with seahorses. I have a new hobby, (surfing), which I am becoming in love with. I told my sis I was bit by the surfing bug, she says it is more liked consumed. LOL.( wow sounds like I am applying for one of those dating sites)however I am married! I am a very unique individual, if I do say so myself. I love tradition, but yet seem to think outside the norm (notice I did not say box?)

I have finally come to the realization that at certain stages in your life, you try to be certain things to different people. Which sometimes makes you get lost and forget who you are, and you can't be true to yourself. Then you get to an age where you say to yourself "why in the H E double hockey sticks do I care what people think". Who are they to me? If they are someone to me, they would want and love me to be myself. If we are not true to ourselves, we are not living our purpose on this earth we were meant to.

Why am I telling you all this? What does this have to do with blogging? Well it brings me to why I am blogging, I want to write and express myself. I am putting myself and feelings out there for the world to see. I know I'm not going to impress or please everyone, with what my pen puts to paper or my fingers strike on the keyboard. But, at least I will be honest and put down what I feel and what I believe is true to me. It will be anything from what my day is like. To my experiences surfing, bike riding, camping, to when my grand baby does anything. What my beloved Chihuahua or any other member of my pack of dogs gets into. It even could be a new discovery I have found. (Like I have discovered using less expensive brands and getting the same results.)

I look forward to welcoming you all into the crazy world that is mine.

Welcome to the life of Michelle.....PS.. don't be afraid to leave a comment.

Very Random Very Brief

TA DA!! my first day blogging.. well I decided to make my first blog brief and a learning experiment. Try to figure this out.. plus I need to get ready for work..
All I got to say is great, what am I getting myself into? Now I will have 2 social networks to keep up with, 2 personal e-mails, and 1 work email, and not to mention my personal journal... NOW I have a blog.. When will I have time to surf, and hike and ride my bike, let alone actually work? My next blog will give an explanation at why I am taking a shot at this...and it is not just because I'm doing it because everyone else seems to be. haha....stay tuned!