Sunday, February 12, 2012

Yet... I still LOVE Surfing.

HMM so this is what I do, when I surf on weekdays, TRAFFIC, 3 Freeways, 37 miles one way to closest wave. I am either crazy Or I am surfing's Bitch... hmmm maybe a lil of both! ...but since hubs is driving.. can you say carpool lane :-)!

Ok Ok. So now I am finally writing about my surf session last Thursday. I had Thursday and Friday off last week. SO of course if possible Surfing is on the agenda.
Since my hubs starting this journey with me..He wanted to surf with me on my day off. So he picked Thursday to take off and bond with me in the surf. All together now.. AWWWWW!!!

We end up at Blackies..which had a little something for everyone that day. BY the Jetty it was huge, I saw plenty of overhead and decent shaped waves. THEN the middle was a little weird. Smaller than by the Jetty. But watching them, they were coming in at odd angles, and different directions. Just looked weird. I don't know how to explain it. But closer to the Pier lots of 2-3's nothing really higher than chest. Mostly Rights. Also seem to be where all the beginners were. SO after the high school team got out. That is where we decided to go.

Brian paddled out past the break. It was an achievement I would say. It was not the easiest paddle out, but it was nothing like last time he surfed with me at Bolsa. SO I was impressed he got outside.

I forgot to mention A few of my friends were there surfing. Laura, Bobby, Rick, Susan. Susan surfed closest to us.

I don't know what has been with me lately. BUT my surfing skills have been hiding somewhere. I kind of lost my Mojo. If anyone sees it out in the ocean.. please let me know! Last couple of times. I Have not been in tune.

I figured this time, my excuse is, I was so worried about Brian and paying attention to him. I was worried about him being outside, What if a bigger set came in, what would he do? What if he got in someones way or went after a wave that was not his? I just really didn't focus. Sometimes this real deep motherly instinct thing is a nuisance. Because, where we were surfing it was perfect fun waves for me. I knew I could do a lot better than I was. I was not doing much of anything. Plus the people around me said they were occasional surfers from Sacramento..but they just all went after waves, without any courtesy either, so I had to watch out for them as well.

Oh I have to throw some things in here. I think it is so cute when Brian is trying to coach me and tells me to paddle for a wave, when I know it is not gonna do anything, or I am not in the right position for it. HA he has a lot to learn. I just smile, and don't say anything negative. He will get it soon. I too am still learning..but I find it funny I know, what I know now. WOW! This is good for me. Because I truly did not realize how much I have learned. Also I would be paddling out and he would think a wave was gonna break on me, BUT I clearly knew I would get over it. I knew my timing, I knew what the waves was doing and when.. He would be yelling, LOOK OUT HONEY, BE CAREFUL.. I would smile and say I am good, don't worry about me. How flippen cute.

When I finally decided Brian was a big boy and I was gonna just focus on me. I still wasn't catching waves. I paddled and paddled and nothing. I caught like 2. BUT I noticed. Susan was in the same predicament. So maybe it was not me. We both paddled for waves and nothing. Ok Ok. That made me feel better. Also when Laura got out she said she was off today also.. LAURA IS NEVER OFF. So maybe it was not just me?

Well after playing by the pier. THAT was getting a lot more crowded. Hubs said hey lets go south of pier where it is less crowded. Yeah.. Less crowded..but not as many waves. OH well. I will sacrifice so he can learn. PLENTY of my friends have done the same for me. So when we were coming back in. He catches a little something inside and took it all the way to shore. He popped up, a little late, but popped up none the less. He looked back at me like a little kid to make sure I saw . I gave him the thumbs up. He was so proud. AGAIN I am looking at my husband differently. He is so fricken cute. Maybe him learning to surf is really not a bad thing after all. This just may be what we needed right now.....

So we head under the pier. He said he needed a bit of a break. By the way, when we were outside and he wanted to head south, I said lets paddle under the pier. He looked at me like I was crazy, when I headed that direction he didn't follow. That is when he headed in. So I followed him.

We decide to walk down a bit further away from the pier, because there was maybe a total of 5 surfers and one paddle boarder right next to it. So we go away from everyone.

We get outside. I get one wipe out. Then I get one wave. THEY were few and far between. Because we went really where nothing was happening. We Sat outside and talked a bit. Talked about how nice it was. How just sitting outside was peaceful. How nice the day and weather was and how clear the water is. I was telling him how to read waves. I also gave him little pointers I learned along the way. And he was telling me how he is still trying to find his sweet spot & figure out where to put his feet when he pops up. I told him a trick I learned about finding the sweet spot when you do and are comfortable, put an X in the wax where your chin or nose is when laying on your board. That helped me a lot. I was trying to show him how to spin his board around and do the egg beater with his feet to catch a wave... He is still learning that. IT took me a long time too.

Then a nice little set comes in. He goes for one. I think he got it.. Another passes I let it and I go for the third. I didn't see where Brian was till I was preceding with my pop up. Because there was a wave between us. WHEN I saw him, He was paddling right at me. I said GO left and pointed to my left as I am popping up.. which would have been his right. He just said OH SHIT. His eyes got big and I think he threw his board. I went to my right. But got his board right in my chest and arm. I also hit my face on my board. BUT somehow I didn't get knocked off my board. I was laying on it. Then I realized my left arm was in so much pain. I go off my board and could not lift my left arm. IT HURT! So I lay on my board and let the white wash take us to shore. I get out. I cannot lift my board. He comes running and is part scared, worried and I think mad, he said, WHY did you come right at me? I said I didn't see you. He was more worried about me. I said it is ok, I am ok. I really hurt my arm, I cannot lift my board. He was gonna try to take both boards my 9'0 and the big thick boat he is using, that is like 2 of mine already.. I told him NO I got it, and lifted my big 9'0 with my right arm and carried it all the way back to the shower. I feel like I am gonna throw up I am in so much pain. I thought somehow I broke my left arm. BUT I didn't. It was just right on the muscle of my bicep. BUT my arm pit area was hurting too., I try to take my wetsuit off.. I am trying not to cry. Because if you are a surfer, you are tough and you don't cry when you get hurt. Surfing is not for sissy's I am not a sissy!. I keep telling my panicky husband I am ok, it is all part of surfing no big deal. At least it was us that ran into each other. BUT at the least crowded place HA!.
YES OUCH!!! If you are keeping count #3

We decide to go and get some bloody mary's. I could really use one. Take Laura to our fav bar on the Penninsula. Thank God my fav bartender is working who makes the BEST bloody mary's. I also get a bag of ice to put on my arm. I downed 3 drinks, some water and 2 tacos and some flautas for lunch.
Pain relief take 3 and call me in the morning. THIS is number 2

My hubs Laura and I and few locals we know talk a bit. I felt much better after the drinks. My arm is turning blue now. HA. But the pain is not as bad. As long as I don't move it. Well Great so now I get bruise #3 in less than a month. Funny I got a bruise on my left arm, then a few weeks later one on my right arm and now another on my left arm. It comes in 3's right.. so now I AM DONE! NO MORE INJURIES!. I have also found a few more bruises from that day. So I have a total of 6 but the one on my arm is the worst. My armpit area is a bit swollen too. TODAY 3 days later, MY bruise is itching. Well that is a new thing. BUT I have learned if you damage nerve endings histamine will cause itching, which means it is healing. I guess that annoying part is a good thing..
SO ya. I didn't surf Friday.. because I still really could not move my arm. I guess I needed the rest. I have been icing it and taking Epsom salt baths and wrapping it in Epsom salt compresses, and living off ibuprofen. ALL PART OF A LIFE OF A SURFER I GUESS!

I keep coming back to work after my days off with bruises. People are gonna start questioning my relationship status. FUNNY this one I can say was from my husband. ;-)