Monday, October 17, 2011
Two views of one MAGICAL wave
Unfortunately I do not have a picture for this post. I am really bummed because I WISH I DID!!!!! But this work of Art expresses a lot of what I could not put in words about my experience.
I had to do a separate post for this wave I spoke a little about in my previous post.
I am still taking it in, absorbing what happened, and still in awe of this wave. THIS ONE WAVE. I mean this happened on Friday..and it is now Monday, and I think I have the right energy and perspective to finally put in words. I think I have finally come to the conclusion this really happened!
Last night I asked my husband to tell me what he saw on the beach when I caught this wave. Which I am going over and over in my head about. I still can't believe it. So after hearing my husbands version I was REALLY!!! It really did happen!! It was not a dream, it was not exaggerated in my mind...SO I want to do a post here as told by me and my husband view as it was happening.
So I am outside and a huge swell is coming in, All the other surfers paddle towards it, I heard someone say WHOA!! My thoughts were wow where did this come from? I was just about to follow the pack, when I don't know where I got the cajones? I just heard the words of my 19 year old surfer friend here where I work go through my mind, "Don't be afraid of the big waves" "Go for it!"
Me: I spun my board around and paddled for the wave.. thinking to my self.. Oh this is gonna hurt..your gonna die.. what are you doing?
Hubs: Oh look She is the only one paddling for that wave.(husband is not a surfer but a fishing boat captain. SO this gets good)
Me: oh crap I am lifting up too high.. too high. Oh shit!
Husband: You were on the white water top of the wave.. then you stood up Me: you mean the lip, I popped up at the lip?..(so what was going through my mind as I am on this part of the wave... was as said above, TOO high oh shit oh shit I am gonna eat it! OK just pop up..I did.. holy cow I am up!! Oh this isn't gonna last.. that is a long fall in front of me. Michelle last time you did this you ate shit..you are stupid, you are not ready for this.)
Hubs: then you fell to the front of the wave while standing on the board.. Me: I dropped onto the face of the wave,while still standing? (I remember dropping and my stomach dropped and all I could think is I am still standing!!)
Me: how big was the wave? Where was the wave on my body? waist, chest? Hubs: um it was above your head when you were at the bottom. ME: HOLEY SHIT A HEAD HIGH WAVE ?! I am 5'7" and it was at my head. so what a 5' wave? Hubs: yeah probably...(So seriously I was not thinking at this point how big the wave was... I was just trying to stay on my board..and I think my soul left my body..because I could not believe what was happening.. All that kept going through my head was I am still on, I am still on!!but I knew this was the biggest wave I have ever caught and rode!
Hubs: you were on for a long time and rode it all the way to the shore..you were going right. ME: I was going left he was facing me.. and I did ride it all the way to shore.. I think I was again having an out of body experience. I remember stepping of my board in ankle deep water, I was in a daze. I wish I knew what my expression was, I either had a smile ear to ear or I had a complete look of shock on my face. I remember looking to see if my husband saw it. I saw his red shirt and knew he was still there. Then I looked around expecting people to be all excited..BUT really I didn't know anyone around me. It was in a crazy moment. I grabbed my board and went out and asked Artie if she saw what happened? I really wanted to know how big that wave was..but she only knew I caught a wave.. she didn't see much else. I was thinking maybe it really was not that big of a deal..but I am so glad my husband was there and his description confirmed my feelings.
I am so Happy my husband saw that! I have a witness. I wish I had a picture or better yet video.. I really wish I could see the look on my face.
See...I think a wave that is waist high is big for me. I am so happy surfing anything and cruising on my board slowly in ankle to knee to waist high. THAT is my fav thing to do. That is MY surfing..
BUT now.. I have experienced this! Mamma likes and I want more please!!!