Monday, October 17, 2011

Two views of one MAGICAL wave

Unfortunately I do not have a picture for this post. I am really bummed because I WISH I DID!!!!! But this work of Art expresses a lot of what I could not put in words about my experience.

I had to do a separate post for this wave I spoke a little about in my previous post.
I am still taking it in, absorbing what happened, and still in awe of this wave. THIS ONE WAVE. I mean this happened on Friday..and it is now Monday, and I think I have the right energy and perspective to finally put in words. I think I have finally come to the conclusion this really happened!

Last night I asked my husband to tell me what he saw on the beach when I caught this wave. Which I am going over and over in my head about. I still can't believe it. So after hearing my husbands version I was REALLY!!! It really did happen!! It was not a dream, it was not exaggerated in my mind...SO I want to do a post here as told by me and my husband view as it was happening.

So I am outside and a huge swell is coming in, All the other surfers paddle towards it, I heard someone say WHOA!! My thoughts were wow where did this come from? I was just about to follow the pack, when I don't know where I got the cajones? I just heard the words of my 19 year old surfer friend here where I work go through my mind, "Don't be afraid of the big waves" "Go for it!"

Me: I spun my board around and paddled for the wave.. thinking to my self.. Oh this is gonna hurt..your gonna die.. what are you doing?

Hubs: Oh look She is the only one paddling for that wave.(husband is not a surfer but a fishing boat captain. SO this gets good)

Me: oh crap I am lifting up too high.. too high. Oh shit!

Husband: You were on the white water top of the wave.. then you stood up Me: you mean the lip, I popped up at the lip?..(so what was going through my mind as I am on this part of the wave... was as said above, TOO high oh shit oh shit I am gonna eat it! OK just pop up..I did.. holy cow I am up!! Oh this isn't gonna last.. that is a long fall in front of me. Michelle last time you did this you ate are stupid, you are not ready for this.)

Hubs: then you fell to the front of the wave while standing on the board.. Me: I dropped onto the face of the wave,while still standing? (I remember dropping and my stomach dropped and all I could think is I am still standing!!)

Me: how big was the wave? Where was the wave on my body? waist, chest? Hubs: um it was above your head when you were at the bottom. ME: HOLEY SHIT A HEAD HIGH WAVE ?! I am 5'7" and it was at my head. so what a 5' wave? Hubs: yeah probably...(So seriously I was not thinking at this point how big the wave was... I was just trying to stay on my board..and I think my soul left my body..because I could not believe what was happening.. All that kept going through my head was I am still on, I am still on!!but I knew this was the biggest wave I have ever caught and rode!

Hubs: you were on for a long time and rode it all the way to the were going right. ME: I was going left he was facing me.. and I did ride it all the way to shore.. I think I was again having an out of body experience. I remember stepping of my board in ankle deep water, I was in a daze. I wish I knew what my expression was, I either had a smile ear to ear or I had a complete look of shock on my face. I remember looking to see if my husband saw it. I saw his red shirt and knew he was still there. Then I looked around expecting people to be all excited..BUT really I didn't know anyone around me. It was in a crazy moment. I grabbed my board and went out and asked Artie if she saw what happened? I really wanted to know how big that wave was..but she only knew I caught a wave.. she didn't see much else. I was thinking maybe it really was not that big of a deal..but I am so glad my husband was there and his description confirmed my feelings.

I am so Happy my husband saw that! I have a witness. I wish I had a picture or better yet video.. I really wish I could see the look on my face.

See...I think a wave that is waist high is big for me. I am so happy surfing anything and cruising on my board slowly in ankle to knee to waist high. THAT is my fav thing to do. That is MY surfing..

BUT now.. I have experienced this! Mamma likes and I want more please!!!

1 comment:

  1. Great post! I can totally relate to your feeling on being on a big wave and it is the same reason I brought my long board back in on my last post, because the waves were too big. I took off on a wave and I totally ate it! I thought to myself they will all be like this so I gave up, but you did not! So proud to hear that you went for it. What an incredible feeling to know that you were able to pop up and ride the wave that normally would have thrown you and your board like a bucking bronc! I think what is even cooler is that your husband was there to see it in person! That is magic! He probably thought she does this all of the time as you cruised in. I only wish we had waves on a regular basis because I know I could get better at standing up. Your post reminded me of a song by Carly Simon It's the stuff that dreams are made of Surfing is the stuff that dreams are made of and only a surfer knows the feeling! Double shaka to you! You are inspiring and have now changed my view on challenging myself with bigger sets! If we don't try then we really are only cheating ourselves of that awesome moment.