Sunday, October 7, 2012

Doheny saves me again....

This was my wave of the day...I even rode it in with a cute stance and some style for once..but the only pix was after I was done and jumped of the back of my board.. I think it is a cool pix none the less!

It's been a while since I have been able to surf...write my blog.....exercise... Or do much of anything else.
Between being sick...working a new job, with longer hours than i am use too..also a bit stressed by my job.. It's not what I was told it was gonna be and I am still not a fan of it... But trying to go with the flow and put a positive spin on it... Keyword "trying". Also we have a very close family member who's is extremely ill.. That is a really hard one to speak about right now :-( plus everything is breaking around me ... Just recently my Tahoe... Which the repairs took up what we had in our bank account... (still at i hope its not more!!)Oh well at least it's getting fixed and it could have been worse!

It's all been taking a toll on me.. I was not doing well at all the last couple weeks!!
I am finally feeling better health wise but still have this lingering cough. As a matter if fact paddling out there today made me cough a lot.

So what I have been needing more than ever is to get a surf session under my belt!

I did!!!!I did!!! Doheny saves me again!!

It was not the best surf day... Was so hard to catch lots of paddling for nothing ... Only caught 2 closed out on me and then reformed inside and that was a fun ride!!! The other was a short ride I caught inside..
I almost had a perfect wave... But an out of place paddle boarder came and swooped it away from me..

He didn't know at DoHo the paddle boarders are not allowed to be where the surfers are...the lifeguard went on the bullhorn "after I was done surfing" telling him he needed to move to the other side... My friend Kathleen also had a lil word with him.. He had no idea why everyone was yelling at him... I kind of felt sorry for him... But still perturbed he took my wave!

Everyone was in the same boat we (our surf club) and my hubs and April's hubs all surfed ...we had like 12+ people out there. At one time it was all of us paddling for the same wave and not a one of us could catch it!! We were a cornucopia of surfers with various skill levels on boards ranging from 6 - 10 feet... And we all had the same kind of day..

But the water was warm!! I wore my shorty!!! The sun was out!! There were some off shores because when the wave broke inside and i was sitting outside i watched the beautiful spray dancing on top of the wave!. But it didn't feel very windy to me...
Of course.... Can never have a bad day when I'm with my surf girls!!!
I look like a neanderthal evolving in this

One of our gals my good friend Artie took a board to her face last week at San O and has a few stitches on her lip.. She sat out but came for support and was our photographer... I have no pix yet.. But If and when they get posted I shall add some !

So this day helped me a lot... It helped me clear my mind...focus on the positive and get some much need water time.

Since I have no pix ... I stole this icon from someone a while back... It fits this occasion ;-)