Wednesday, February 27, 2013

Bummer ... No pictures this time!

I was soooo excited to surf today!!!

Hubs had day off ... He has been surfing everyday this week before he went to work.. Luckily he works 2 miles from Blackies ... I'm a tad jealous ...

Also, he is starting to out surf me.. It's not fair!

So I said can we surf on your day off!!??It suppose to be warm and I Really was jonesing!!

My friend Irma had a real bad day the other day and said she needed to surf... I said when and where ?? She replied Blackies 9:00 AM!

So ended up Irma, me, Brian,Susan,Bridget, and Jen O..... Plus other Blackies crew who are always there.

It was sunny, water was cold and waves were 2-3' and I think I'm being generous with the 3'

I forgot to do my sun salutations at home so I did it on the beach... It helps me start my day 10 everyday
I really enjoyed it... Was a more spiritual experience .. I was feeling good and waiting for my friends to show up...

Hubs and I headed out after everyone arrived.. We were the first two out in the line up of our group.

It was crowded and we found a lil nitch , however there were two guys not letting me have any waves ... I was getting discouraged... I left Brian and went a little south and low and behold the one guy who was most aggressive next to me was there and again would not let me get a wave! Also there was an older man kook who was sitting inside waiting for whitewash obviously learning but he too was always in my way.

My hubs was actually annoying me... He keeps trying to tell me what to do... Sometimes I wish he shut up.. I have been surfing longer than him and I do know what to do... And honestly ... He does not know as much as he thinks it irritates me.

I came out and analyzed the scene... Trying to figure where to go.

So I saw Bridget getting in and told her how I was getting discouraged and I went back out with her ..

Soon all of us were there and I felt more secure.

I was still not catching anything and getting frustrated and annoyed.. Susan and I both paddle for a wave I was going left and was aiming that way and Susan right.. We were on the wrong side of each other.. so we laughed and neither of us caught the wave :-(

Bridget noticed I was aiming my board and said just go straight and turn after your up.. I told her this is how I caught waves at Bolsa i really wanted to start going down the line and get my rail in there, she said its totally a different wave..And my board is smaller ...Almost Everyone else catching waves were on 9-0 and 10-0... A lot of 10-0's! Also seems like Blackies and I have not been getting along much lately either ... I have not been doing well at that break last few times I have surfed there.. And that messes with my head.

So after paddling for a ton of waves and not catching any... I paddled outside away from everyone and just took a few deep breaths and just meditated a bit.. I wanted that feeling I had before I got out there.

After that and with Bridget's advice I caught waves... My first was a nice long left... After I was done I fell back in the water and was just ahhhhhhhhhh! I feel better now...
My friends were all happy I finally caught one!
I caught 3 more after mostly lefts and all fun!

One was an accidental ride...I was paddling out and I went over a wave and see my hubs and an awesome surfer named Ford coming right at me.

I was in the middle so I just turned my board paddle and caught that one hubs went left ... Ford backed off wave when I caught it and I went right.

I don't think Ford was upset.. I think he gracefully backed off for me... I think????

Anyway lastly, hubs and I decided to come in after 2 hours. We had some important errands to run..He said I'm getting one more and taking it in.. And no sooner he said that he was gone.. I tried to take one in.. But I didn't get it.. Paddled for another and didn't get it... Caught some white wash in and rode in on my belly with arms out... My version of the "superman"

We got out saw a few more peeps said some hellos got dressed and said our goodbyes!

Side note... I am currently on a low fat..low cal..low carb diet..
So may have something to do with my negative attitude in the beginning ...and low energy to paddle harder for some waves!

But in the end... It was a good day surfing!

Tuesday, February 19, 2013

Eventful 3 days of surf

Well I was fortunate to do something I do not always get to do... Surf 3 days in a row!

Day one ...Saturday
Day of paddle out for Pabs at Bolsa with my fellow bloggers. It was a fun day.. was small but I caught a few rides ... Nothing to really write about.. But it was the best out of the three days!

Day two Sunday went out at Bolsa again and conditions were way different than the previous day! Boy what a difference a day makes!

Met up with Laura who recently came back from Surfing warm waters in Hawaii and then Nicaragua ... she is not a fan of going in on cold days or windy days So for her to want to surf cold waters on a cold and windy day was rare!

Well if Laura is going in I suppose I should not argue... With the stormy weather headed our way , we were not sure when we would be able to surf again and I was pet/housesitting close to the beach till Monday, so have to take advantage of it!
So we decide we will head in , even if for 30 minutes.. I thought well at least I will get some paddling in .. I need to condition myself more in that department any way.

Well I defenatly got my paddle on was so choppy and the wind-swell drifted us north at a fast pace.. We were at the next tower at the blink of an eye. This happen a few times.
We stayed out for 40 minutes ... Laura caught one ride in and I caught one in....

Irma showed up... Didn't go in... Basically watched us and thought we were crazy being out there in those conditions... Laurie showed up after surfing a few towers down a little earlier and said her conditions were a lil better than ours...
After surf met up with Laurie and we went to secret spot and got some brunch...
During brunch hubs sends a picture from the boat while working the whale watch trip .. With text "25' shark near Harbor get out of water!!" Well I was already out.. And I carry my cell phone while surfing!! And found out its a basking shark... As my friend Laurie puts it those are cute and cuddly ;-).. And yeah a 25' this is a baby.. They can get to 60'.. But still if I saw a 25' shark of any kind .. I would need a new wet suit!!!! :-0

Day three..Jen O, Irma, Artie ,Karen and I surfed different spot. My friend a paddle boarder , Mona showed up also. Any way water was Colder than the last 2 days.. Sun was not out, But, Not as windy as Sunday... And a 25' shark lurked nearby... Uh huh call me crazy I along with my friends went for it .

I used hubs new 9'0..
Caught 0 waves!! I kept paddling for them... But was not catching and when I did I purled.. Yeah conditions sucked tide was low and getting lower ... So we were in shallow water with pitchy closed out waves I had no idea how to use hubs board ..This was not the day to try!!!
One wipeout ...board came back smacked me upside my ear was ringing thought the fin cut my ear... It was so cold my ears were numb.. So I kept checking for blood... Luckily none... But I was sore! Still am as I type this.. Feel like I been socked in the head and feels like my ear was bent back or something .. But I will live! No bruises or cuts. However
I Wish I used MO..

As for the rest of the surf session ..
There were 2 big sea lions out and 1 Rockstar... Yeah I surfed with Billy Joe Armstrong of Green Day.. But what's so cool about that , is when your in the line up... We are all the same... Surfers.
I am not posting where I surfed this day so he can surf in peace... It's not the first time he has been at this break ... And I never bug him...
However he was coming back out and paddled over a wave landing with a hard splash behind me... I jumped I told him you scared me!! I thought you were one of those sea lions.... He laughed and said oops sorry !

I paddled back down towards Jen and Karen.. Left Irma there to chat with Billy..
I was not feeling that peak after I hit my head..

I def worked on my paddling muscles surfing 3 days in a row.. But wish conditions were a little better .. But it's good to get in on days when it's not so great... That's what makes you a better surfer... Right?

Below pix hubs sent me of said shark along with the text message he sent me ... It still makes me laugh ..what good is it sending me a text like that while surfing?

Saturday, February 16, 2013

Surfing and Blogging Ohana coming together to say goodbye to a family member!

Mother Nature smiled down on us with a beautiful day to say goodbye to one of our own!

Today we came together as a blogging and surfing family to send our beloved Pabs off best we could. We all felt we needed to do something so we gathered together at Bolsa Chica.. Valerie from "Eat Surf Love" & "Mere-Made Surfboards" drove up from Encinitas and Surf Sista/Mary and her husband from "Intruder in the Surf", Klaude and his friend Hideki from "KK's Surf Kronicles", Matt from "El Porto Surf" Jeff from "Goofy Kook" drove from Los Angeles, My husband and I along with some of my surf gals from Wahine Kai and friends from Orange County.

It was an amazing day the sun was shining, water was not too cold and it was just so wonderful to gather and meet bloggers we have not met previously! I know Pabs would totally approve and be happy we all finally got together. There were a few missing today..but that is ok.. I know they were there in spirit.

The Paddle out was small and intimate, but went rather well and afterwards, we all caught waves(I don't think anyone left waveless)in the small surf and just enjoyed the camaraderie.

When we were done we gathered and nibbled on snacks and coffee and tea and water.. WE had so much snackage..especially an abundance of donuts..we even started passing them out to passers-by on the trail who were walking, jogging, and biking. WE may have sabotaged a few diets..but oh well!

Valerie brought a collage of Pabs we put on display and had everyone sign. I think she is going to attempt to send it to his family. After all was done Valerie and I walked to the beach and tossed the additional left over flowers one by one out to sea!

Even though it was not a joyous occassaion that brought us all together...It was a very enjoyable day!

I am posting just a small variety of pix from that day. I am sure surf sister and surf mama have a bigger variety they will be posting as well. I think with all the bloggers that attended there will be a lot of view points from that day..and I know they will all be very heartfelt as well.

I would like to share and end my blog post with what I wrote and read before we all paddled out...

I started with some words from Pabs Blog posts...only fitting....


"Into the early morning mists of NORCAL I ventured…seeking the elusive stoke while squinting through the soupy blanket that enveloped me, hoping that each distant dark mound of cold liquid rising from the primordial depths would send me cascading across its glassy surface…refueling my desire to be human once again.

This was the intro for a post that day. This is one of the reasons why I, and probably a lot of you here today were enchanted by Pabs. Before I ever met him, I fell in love with his words.
He wrote about surfing so poetically & romantically as he searched for, or on many occasions found the elusive stoke he spoke of so often.

I will never forget the day I met Pabs. He came down to surf with me & Valerie(aka surf mama)& a few of my surf sisters from Wahine Kai.

His words fit him to a tee!! He was very charming, and kind and funny. I have been fortunate to have surfed with him and will always have the memory & thanks to my friend Artie and her go-pro the video of me paddleing for a wave and Pabs swooping by extends his hand and offered me a lift, as he so gracefully glided right past me. I could not stop laughing. We had such a fun time in the water that day. Even though Pabs was in pain, he still managed to surf & have a good time! None of us knew the extent of his injury & even question if it has somethng to do with why he is no longer with us today.

Pabs will forever be in my heart & with me while I seek the stoke! Especially on the "cold" days.

I would like to read one more thing Pabs posted on his Birthday Surf Sesh #18 dated May 15, 2011 - It was a reference to why he enjoyed the stoke so much & why he said he neede it so badly. He admitted to being a stoke addict, though only in moderation. I think ALL of us surfers can relate to these words.

"But think about it...that's what makes it so rewarding for me: You're no longer in TOTAL CONTROL.

Moreover, when you surf, you're entering a realm that humans have no control over. An environment that can kill you at any time.

Though we would like to think we know what we're doing when immersed within the stoke-zone, we are in fact mere passengers upon a liquid carpet that can either unfold in glorious beauty, or be pulled out from under you in a surprisingly and humbling wipe-out.

Giving up and allowing yourself to abandon all control, including all of the life shit that we carry into what makes it such a spiritual experience for many of us stoke seekers.

You have to simply allow yourself to "BE" in the moment...that also includes those times when mother water forces us into "going deep"...a metaphor for reaching into ourselves and finding our soul.

Pabs words have spoke to me on so many levels. But has also helped to deepen my love for surfing! I will very much miss his updates, his advice & of course, Pabs himself.

I am positive his presence is here with us today, & he is happy we have all come together to celebrate his "stoke addiction"!

SO today lets not be sad..lets celebrate STOKE in the name of Pabs!!!!

All Pictures courtesy of my friend Artie.. I totally was consumed putting everything together..I had no time to take pictures.. THANK YOU Artie!

Thursday, February 7, 2013

A few Updates!! Pabs Paddle out and My last time surfing my Birthday!

(I just want to say I LOVE this picture of I took it from his page)
OK I just now read his friend posted on Pabs blog...after i posted this picture..that Pabs ashes were spread out at his surf spot with his surf friends up North at Camel Rock.. so wondering if this picture I just picked to post..IS that Camel Rock in the background??? If so that is a coincidence and I think its very cool!!!!

OK so a few updates....I have a few things going on.. gee never a dull moment!

LETS START WITH NEXT WEEKS PADDLE OUT FOR PABS!! So if you are interested in attending and have not contacted me please do. ALSO I changed the location.. STILL AT BOLSA CHICA..but at Tower 27!! I repeat Tower 27!! That is the lot furthest north of the State Beach and if need be and you cannot pay for the parking.. you can park behind Jack in the Box or along the greenbelt and walk in.( side note,, it is the weekend and it can get crowded by the greenbelt and behind Jack in the Box.)

So everything else is the same Saturday Feb. 16th, at 9:00 AM at Bolsa Chica State Beach at TOWER 27!!!!

Look forward to seeing you all there..WISH it was better circumstances but I am sure Pabs wants us celebrating his life and send him out with lots of love and stoke!!

Now last time I surfed..It was my birthday a week ago today. .. I did not take any pictures..I don't know why???..

When we first pulled up to Blackies.. it looked very small.. I just said "Well Surf Gods are not smiling on me for my Birthday".. But I decided It was a sunny,however cold morning.. it was my Birthday and I was going in regardless. Besides I already put in 5 hours at the meter!! I was just happy seeing a few of the Blackies crew AND!!! My friends got a new puppy, a cute Golden Doodle, I am so in love.. but if you know me I LOVE DOGS!! Yep and she stole my heart..So seeing everyone and puppy love,,started off a great day!

As for Surf....

I had a fricken blast! My hubs and few friends joined me as we went out and surfed. Surf was only 1'-2' with a few 3'.. It looked smaller and seem like our surf window was small,so if we were gonna do it...better do it now. BUT I surfed for 2 1/2 hours..I switched boards a few times..took Tallulah out of retirement..{My first board a 9'0 for those of you who don't know or remember}..Because, I thought I would seriously need a big board for that day..So my first couple waves I caught on her.. took me a minute to remember how to surf on her. I purled my first take off and had to remember.. oh yeah flatter nose. After A few rides on her..I used my hubs new board 9'0, single fin it is wider than Tallulah and has more of a rocker up front...He only let me catch one wave on that.. well two if you count the white water I caught to figure out where to stand.. He took the board away from me after that..He either did not want to sit out there on my pink and purple flowered board..or just wanted to play with his new toy.. YEP he got a new toy even though it was my Birthday..hmmmmmmm!!!!

Any way that is a long story and I will save it for another day.

Then I went back and changed out boards and took out my true love "MO" 8'0 favorite board to date. Surf did get a little bigger more 3 footers so Mo was lots of fun at that point..

I caught 15 waves that day.. well one was white wash and 2 were close outs..but STILL!!! EVERYONE who surfed with me that day caught waves..everyone left Happy and Smiling.. WHAT A GREAT BIRTHDAY PARTY AT BLACKIES!!

Some of my friends came by to say Happy Birthday and left to surf HB.. Or surfed HB and came after..because as I said looked like the Surf Gods at Blackies were not smiling on my Birthday..BUT actually they really were!!!

Another update.. I don't want to jinx it..but I have been interviewing,(a lot of interviews!!) at an office in North OC with a variety of Agents..and Think????? fingers crossed maybe...I have a job.. its a tad complicated to get into, and I don't want to jinx it..but I am hoping I will be employed soon and with an income that can support my family and account for the commuting! Since it seems my unemployment just ran out..and I cant figure out if I got an extension or not.. DON'T even get me started on that. I want to be off unemployment so bad.. I just want to work, and want an average income! I have put a lot of energy "positive" in this.. SO fingers crossed people.. fingers crossed.

Any way..currently lucky me I am again pet/house sitting at my friends home..the one where I take all my sunset photos.. Maybe if I am lucky I can get some from now till Sunday..but it is pretty overcast right now here at the beach, so we will see!

Again PLEASE contact me if you have not already regarding Pabs Paddle out... I know there are a few of you who read my blog and other blogs along with One Man Crowd..If you knew Pabs, or Blog, or Surf ..You are welcome to attend!