Monday, September 14, 2009
Well I did it.. I got a used Costco board.. it was a great deal. It is something. I'm starting out...as I keep saying, so.. whatever.
However, it is smaller than I am use to at 8' so when I first caught a wave. I ate it bad.. pearled right to the sandy beach floor.. YUCK.. and then I did it again. I swallowed more salt water and choked on more sand than I felt fair. I had to get out and recover..so sad I was sooooo excited about getting out there on my own board.
Well I kept at it..this surf session was basically getting use to the board. Finding my sweet spot.. I caught waves. Kneed it in, and rode it like a boogie board....
But forget popping up.. OH I did try, but I can't stay up... I felt the board catch the wave, and then I pull my chest up. (so not to go forward and down into the sand).. then I get to my feet, and don't get all the way up..and off my feet I go with some acrobatic freestyle falling, haha. I only really got up one time where I am happy about it my whole 8 times of surfing.
Well I guess patience and persistence is the key. I totally pop up when I am practicing on carpet.. but when the board is moving in the water, getting up and getting balanced... wow... not easy!
So my Hubby, who decided to surf fish, while I surfed.. took a pix of me and my new board. I know it is a bad pix.. but he is so impatient, I was lucky to get this shot!
Well that was my surf experience on my first board.