Saturday, February 12, 2011

Bad Surf, But Great Surf Day

Basically what surf looked like yesterday. HA! Not my surf break..just want to show what FLAT means!

OK so what would you name this post?
All I have to say is that yesterday was my only day off..I had not surfed in over 2 weeks. The surf was flat or if there was any surf from Newport to Seal it was closed out or windy or just plain non existent. That was the reports I was getting from my surf buddies up and down the coast. They were looking at web cams and also driving to check them out and getting back to me. I was getting a bit discouraged, because ONE, of course I really wanted to surf. It was such a beautiful sunshiny Southern California day and again.. MY ONLY DAY OFF THIS WEEK.. and TWO.. I was getting better at this thing called surfing and I wanted more, and to see if it was just a fluke or if I was really getting it? The more you do it, the more you want it!
Last time I surfed, it was the day after I took a fall, if anyone recalls from the last post. I was so sore and ran out of steam fast. But I did still manage to catch and ride 2 waves. But I was still not convinced I "got it" yet. That day was not as good as the time before.
Now I have recouped somewhat..still sore from my lovely fall.. but hey honestly,as you age,it takes longer to bounce back. But I was jonesing to get back in the water. Plus, if I don't get my bath in the refreshing pacific ocean on a regular basis.. I get a bit grumpy... and I have some added stress these days, and I need my stress relief. So, I was debating on what to do.
I thought well regardless, I will still go and paddle around, get wet and an upper body workout. I am not letting this day go to waste!
I decided to go for a run first, while waiting to see if maybe later surf would pick up. So I did I ran from Balboa Pier to Newport Pier and back. When I got to Newport, I checked out the surf a bit. The Jetty was getting a bit of action, not anything to write home about, but there were some sets coming in, but a lot of close outs, still surf though. OF course that is where everyone was, who was in the water. Then I noticed the South Side of the pier. HMMMM some wavage there too..Maybe a few random 2footers, but something. The waves were pretty much closed out there too. A surf team of about 30 teenagers showed up also, which didnt make me happy. Because of course they are gonna dominate the little bit of surf that was there.
So I ran back to Balboa and waited to see what everyone else was doing. I heard one of my friends took a nap on the sand at Bolsa, another said Bolsa was windy, closed out, and just not good. Cliffs, pretty much like Bolsa. I heard Seal was bad from one person, but another said they had a fun time at Seal. I could have drove up and down and checked this all out myself..but I didn't want to waste the gas.
So I decided I would go and if anything get wet and paddle around Blackies. My decision got confirmation when another friend driving down from Long Beach informed me Bolsa was No Bueno for sure. SO she met me at Blackies and it was basically flat. It didn't get better as I waited, like I hoped.
We saw some form of life on the south side of the pier, so that is where we headed.
Now when I say form of life..I mean ripples, ankle biters with an occasional random 1to 2 foot close out wave. BUT ehh it was something. Even though there was not much power behind them.

I came to the conclusion even bad surf is better than no surf and what is bad for one may not mean bad for another.. you ask why I came up with this?....

WELL... I got ride after ride after ride..Even though they were "short rides" because there was not much umph to them. Some of them were just the wash from the closed out wave.. It was still a ride. I only rode 1 all the way in yesterday. BUT .. now here is the good part. NOT because I couldn't do it...but because there was not a lot of push from the wave. What I am trying to say I actually know how to catch a wave and pop up without a second thought. SO it is not a fluke!!I DO GOT IT! After standing up and riding 5 times, I lost count how many times I did this. I even turned once. I still can't believe it. I surfed for 2 hours. I wanted more and thought maybe 30 more minutes, but, I was starting to get sore and tired. When after the last couple waves I just couldn't get my balance and was losing my mojo, I knew it was time to go in.

I know there is so much more to surfing than just popping up and and riding..but I am totally happy with where I am.. and I am happy with staying here for a while...don't get me wrong, I am also looking forward to learning more and getting better. But for now I WILL HAPPILY TAKE THIS!

So when most surfers would have scuffed at the thought of going in on a day like that, I am all too glad I did. NO crowded surf, just me and 2 of my friends, and..
.. a GREAT day surfing.