So there has been a lot of discussion lately about how to measure a wave..and it is very confusing to me. SO I started using body parts.. ankle, knee, waist, chest, head. I usually do not like to surf anything much above my waist..and seem to go out when it is ankle to maybe chest high. WHEN some of those chest highs get bigger and or stronger. I will come in. I have realize too big for me. I think that as 4-5 waves. When I try to look at the face and do some fast math in my head. MY BEST wave was just over my head. I am so stoked and said it had to be a 5'. THEN my bubble was popped. BECAUSE of the whole Hawaiian style measuring. From the back of the waves. WELL 1).. you don't surf the back of the wave... and 2) When you are surfing.. who sees the back of the wave??? Does not make sense to me.
So I am gonna go with this way of measuring and stick with it.:
To me, we should assess wave height according to our own height. Look, in 6 foot waves (californian, not hawaiian scale), it is overhead for me, most of the women and the groms but it's only head high for my buddy who is 6'2 guy. So for him, the wave looks way smaller than for me when standing in it, right? So short people should have more credit than tall ones for riding significantly big waves. I think ;)
ReplyDeletei measure waves according to the place i'm surfing. when i'm in cali, i use the normal, "face" height. i.e., head high would be 5 foot, waist high is 2-3 feet, etc.
ReplyDeletewhen i travel to hawaii, i measure on their standards. it's like trying to speak the native language, ya know? so when it's head high, it's only a two foot wave, three max.