Sorry, I have not had a lot of Internet access, and have been living my life, work, kids, still kinda dieting and exercising and YES surfing.. I was able to get a wetsuit that finally fits me, (thanks to the generosity of one wonderful female surfer.. she knows who she is and how grateful I am!!!) and have been trying to get out at least once a week.
Again with working and living a bit far from the waves..this is a challenge and an accomplishment when I do.
So what have I been up to.. well lets start with the fact I just found out recently I am going to be a Grandma again for the second time. Baby is due in Early Jan. 2011.... I will keep updates going on that .. a bit bitter sweet situation..but we are counting it as a blessing and so far, all is well!
I went on a surf/camp trip with my surf club in May. We got to meet and surf with Linda Benson.. don't know who she is??? Look her up...and be jealous of me. ( She says with a big grin, but in a sweet mild manner way)
I also have been surfing.. and getting a better at it. I am sooo in love with this sport. I can't believe I never tried this earlier.
I am actually catching waves and yes folks get ready for this.. STANDING!!!!! The picture posted is the first one of me doing so.. I am not ready for the US Open or anything close to it... heck I cant even turn yet, but I feel that since I am just shy of a year of surfing I am doing rather well. July 17th will be my year anniversary.. However I will be on an Airplane on my way home from Tennessee, and won't be able to be in the water. I know there are no waves in Tennessee, but my son and his family are. Seeing my granddaughter turn two and my son before his next deployment(way to soon if you ask me) It's well worth the sacrifice.
I can honestly say the list of places I have surfed is getting bigger..I even attempted HB last Saturday. (more on that later) I really like Seal Beach too, except for the sting rays and it is a bit dirty. Encinitas was fun, but I still feel there is no place like my home break..I like the comfort of my security blanky.. even though it is one of the most crowded.
I have made a few new surf purchases..bought my first set of booties, for when I will eventually be able to surf Doheny. I purchased another Spring suit..and wishing the water will get warmer so I can actually wear it. Next is racks or even soft racks for the Jetta.. Also I am trying to find a bathing suit for a "Woman" surfer. I am having some shoulder neck issues and I think the type of suit I have is not helping. Looking for something comfortable, yet sporty, supportive of the girls, and still cute. I like 2 pieces because I don't like to be confined..but they all seem to be made for the young cute college girls. Not older... yet still cute...grandma at 40 gals. LOL .. I have to say with all these requirements.. it really is not an easy task.
Now back to HB, I always think of HB as a big Locals only break, and short boarder break, home of surfing and crowded.. I would have never gone..but since we did a lil event "Hands Across the Sand" our surf club decided to surf there..and there is safety in numbers. Really none of that mattered, but I have to say I never felt sooo beat up going out before, I felt like I was in a washing machine. I don't know how else to describe it. I felt like when I was paddling out, I was getting hit in every direction. So I just played in the white water and stood up once there..I stepped on something I am trying to still convince myself was a plastic bag in the sand, my friend is convinced it was probably a ray. Did not stay in long.. it was just too much. The day ended up to be great, and had a fun brunch with the girls.
SO as to date, what has surfing done for me? Can't even go into the spirituality of it. I think that is something one has to experience for ones self. I have a great stress release, a new found love, got me into shape, a whole new appreciation for the Ocean and all that resides in it, a great group of friends,(more like a sister hood)...and so much more I just don't know how to put into words. I think of it as so much more than just a sport... It is a passion.
Sorry for the long post. Since it had been a while I had a lot to say. I think I still have more, but will spare you. Till next time....