Thursday, April 28, 2011

Now I Know what a Wind Blown Mess is..OR AKA Wind Swell

Sorry No Pictures this time.... I guess I should have taken a pix of my repaired board.But didn't think of it ..any way...

I had two days off this week. I picked Tallulah up on Tuesday, Fresh from her nose job "AKA ding repair". THANKS MOLLY YOU ROCK! Went to go and see if there was any surf from Bolsa to Blackies.. NADA..not when I went after 12 it was just mush mush and more mush. But I sat at Blackies a while and saw 4 crazy people out there. I don't know what they were thinking..but they did catch some rides.. at least 2 of them seem to know what they were doing. WOULD not have been me for sure. YIKES.
I also dropped a 3/2 wetsuit off at the Frog House for repairs. I hate to admit it but I gained a little weight this winter. I need to get my butt into that wetsuit, so massive diet and exercise regimen has already began. ANY way I don't want any more rips at the seem. That was my first day off and my surf related agenda for the day. Since this is a surf blog. I am sure you don't want to hear how after that, I went home did laundry and dishes..No?? I didn't think so..any way day 2....

Wed. I went surfing my home break and it was not the best conditions. BUT better than Tuesday that is for sure. I just wanted to get out. I had not been out since my harsh, rage filled surf sesh the beginning of the month, and I needed too. SO I along with 2 other gals. Laura and Clair headed out. The Surf, was what my friend Tracy informed me was Wind Swell. Where it just keeps coming in a bit of a white wash bumpy mess.. Consistently. But there were a few ridable white wash messes. LOL. I rode 3. Which I am impressed by, considering my surfing ability. I surfed the South side less crowded part of the pier. Got three short BUMPY rides. I got up and they were short because not a lot of power behind the water surge, it petered out pretty fast. But I did get up and rode 3, so I was stoked. Still working on that pop up..I am getting better.Probably still not as graceful as I would like to be..but I am gonna claim it just the same.. any how, I wanted more. BUT I was feeling a bit exhausted and I really feel I need more upper body strength. I notice when I go over 3 weeks without being in the water,I lose my paddle power. =(.. I had been running a 4 mile regimen and doing a strength training exercise routine, in between, But I need to work more on upper body. Although I think you can work on upper body all you want .. I am convinced your paddle strength comes from getting out there and paddling without a lot of pauses in between. Sometimes for me that is just not possible. Wish I could say different, But I cant. Any way. I still wanted to surf and be in the water. I tried to get out on the North side of the pier. For pretty crappy, yet surfable day, it was still pretty crowded and it was a Wed. DON'T these people have jobs? ANY way I just could not get outside. I paddled and tried but I could not. I started feeling exhausted from trying, and I felt I was paddling in one place and not going any where. Also a SUP kept coming at me every time I felt I was gaining ground. He was in my face. uggg.
I just decided to call it a day. It was a nice sunny.. FINALLY sunny day. A bit windy, but felt good to be out and getting some sunshine. I was at it for an hour. I got some exercise.

Then spent the rest of the day walking around...walked the pier, saw a whale from the pier. A few dolphins and a few Sea Lions... Watched the crazy surfers from the pier...IT still "looked" surfable. Went and had a bowl of clam chowder. Came back and Surf dramatically changed to pure YUCK, Irma showed up and decided to leave and go bike riding instead. Laura also came back and we went and had a beer and Girl Talk. OH by the way.. Long Board Lager..not a bad beer. So I still feel like I had a nice much needed enjoyable day. Not one of my best surf days..BUT a surf day non the less.

Thursday, April 21, 2011


HELLO anyone seen this lately? It is called the sun? Remember nice orangish sphere in the sky. Creates warming sensation.. helps plants grow... Allows us to wear less clothing..and lighter wetsuits.

It is spring. I know it is not always the best warmest time of year..But usually we get a bit more warmth and sun.. NOT lately. I sure hope this is not a sign of things for summer.. Just like last year. Swear I lived in my 4/3 all summer. I have a 3/2 and 2 spring suits.. I really really want to wear. I of course don't want a scorching summer.. Just a lil sunshine and warmth would be nice.

Well since we have had lack of this:

I have not surfed since the First weekend of the month. I am missing it. I was gonna take today off to surf..but I hear it is not so great out there, So decided to work instead.

Oh well I am sure the surf GODS will smile on us shortly... I HOPE!

In other GOOD news.. I passed my State Exam..So one less thing to worry and stress over. =)
Also I am taking my board in to be fixed this weekend..I hear she will be good as new in no time. SO that makes me happy too.

Sunday, April 17, 2011


Well remember my last surf last blog? Where I went into the ocean all aggro. Surfed with idiots, took my anger out on the Innocent and went after a wave that was not mine,JUST because other guys were taking my friends waves..and I was not sure if this guy was associated with them. Also I wanted a wave damn it! I hit that guys board, he was more worried about me than anything. WELL I finally took my board out of her bag and inspected her. Thinking MAYBE I could surf on my days of last week. NADA no surf. BUT NO on the days I am working it is just perfect.. OF COURSE it is!!..any way!!! I would not have been able to surf with my baby! I noticed Karma came up and bit me in the Butt! Tallulah needs a nose to say. Look at her nose. OUCH! I feel so bad...I caused this..It might as well be one of my kids with a broken bone. I cried when I noticed the crackish.. (trying to use a little made up surf slang there).."crackish".. NO? OK never mind.. BUT seriously she is in need of some attention. SO I need to get her attended too before my surf camp trip. SEE this is what happens. I went in with negativity came out negative and beat up in more ways than one my board hit me in the face, and the Ding. SO DOUBLE Karma.. BE nice surfers! Take it from do pay for your negativity!.. hmmm wonder if those not so nice surfers got a bit of karma too.. OK SORRY!!! I will play nice... promise!!! Also was told never take a board you love when surf is crowded..but this is the only board I have.. I am still monogamous to my baby.. but now I know why.. AND this summer I am on the look out for an 8' board that can get a bit beat up.SO let me know if you have one or hear of one I could buy at a very reasonable price. NOTHING new. Old is good, for now!

Monday, April 4, 2011

This goes with my post

Sometimes when I surf I have music in my head. This song was in my head a lot lately. AND the video actually has surfing. Added bonus...just a bit at the end.

Surfing to Relieve Stress VS Stress Caused by Surfing

I must start this blog by saying.. I have been a big ball of stress the last couple weeks.. WAY too much to get into..some, I hope will be relieved after I PASS my state Exam this Thursday..again,I hope..But I am not gonna burden you with everything that is causing my stress, or past tense.. CAUSED my stress...I have already imposed my thoughts and feelings on a few good friends(sorry guys,just needed to get it out there to anyone who would listen)they at this point probably want to throw me into the Ocean until I cool off, calm down, and find peace again. HA!

Well I had 2 days off. Thursday and Saturday, the later I requested off for a surf trip to San Diego planned by my surf club, MORE ON THAT LATER.
Thursday could not surf. My brakes went out on my Tahoe. So I did not want to risk the drive. Not too mention short on gas and no payday till Friday. SO I stayed home. It was a beautiful day and a lot of my friends had a wonderful time surfing on Thursday, SO I am a bit bummed I didn't chance it..especially since Saturday Kind of just sucked!

So Saturday.. well the plan was to go to San Diego with our surf club. But a report went out, where the anticipated spot to surf was looking at 6-8 ft wavesnot to mention fast. My first thought was nope don't feel like dying this weekend, I cannot do 6'-8' slow, let alone "fast". I will stay local. I am happy to report a few of my friends felt the same way and decided to stay local too. SO the handful of us decided to meet at our home break at 8'sh. I am going to rename my home Break on Weekends the 405 during rush hour. SO crowded..ugggg.

BUT regardless.. I wanted to surf, I needed to surf and I was not letting anyone or anything get in my way today. I was a tightly wound up ball of Stress and I just wanted the Zen feeling of a wave. ONE good nice wave. Just one..not asking for much.. right?

Well..besides the crowds, the surf was not all that great. There was surf. However, it was eh surf. Waves were hard to catch. When some decent ones came.. everyone went for them.

My first wave I caught from the outside. I was popping up and I don't know what happen, all of a sudden I was at the front of my board. I never pop that far up. SO me and my board went down. Funny though it was all in slow mo because, I was totally analyzing what was happening as it was happening. I even think I may have had time to take a step or 2 back before the wipe out, and save the wave,but I was so confused. That had never happen to me before. OK Whatever. So yep down we went.

Then I decided to take a wave that broke inside. I just wanted up.. I was too anxious to paddle back out. So I caught a little ride, I thought of it like an appetizer. I wanted to get the feeling of popping up.
Felt good, went and paddle out to the line up with my friends and they were talking about this guy. One of my friends kind of gave a wave to a guy, he said thanks, she said no prob. So we thought all was well. We thought good he will let us have a few if we need them. Then HE takes another wave, and then He Snakes another one of my friends. NOW my girls are getting a bit agitated. I went after a few waves and a group of guys went after them too. LIKE they owned them and went after everything. NOT leaving anything for us. I was getting MAD.. after I kept paddling for waves and not getting them, and they did! I was paddling out to the line up cursing and hitting the water with my fist (I am sure I looked the sight) I yelled I just want one F-ing wave.. damn it. JUST ONE!..Then another friend was getting angry because some guy came up to her and said he dinged her board. She looked at him like what? He said something like she lost her board and it dinged his. SHE said I don't know what you are talking about? I never lost my board. THEY were a bunch of jerks out there Saturday.. USUALLY, regardless of how crowded the guys are never assholes like this. Only, one other time I can recall a bit of "Male Pigness" out there but not like today. Where were our local boys?? The gentlemen..These guys were all middle aged too. YOU think they would not be such A-holes! WE are out there all the time and some of the girls are out there every day, WHO were these jerks?? We know a lot of peeps..and We did not know these idiots!
SO I was seeing R E D!!! I went after a wave, I was paddling my little heart out Just ready to pop up and I see a guy coming from my right.. I did not care. Even though it was his wave, I don't know if he was with the douche bags, I kept going for it. BUT then his board hit mine I wiped out I heard a bad sounding bang... I was mad.
I got up paddled back to the line up. Took a deep breath said to myself this is not you. YOU came out here angry and negative.. and you are feeding off the negativity of these Jerks. So the guy who I hit, Came paddling up, I said hey sorry it was your wave. I owned up and took responsibility for it. I asked if he stayed on or did I mess up his ride? He said no, he was good, HE was more concerned about me. He asked if I was ok. He said he knew he hit something. I said Yeah I know, I am still floating so I guess I am ok.(I still really have not inspected my board yet) I said sorry again. He paddled over to some other guys. I see my other friends getting out on shore, SO not like either one of them to get out early. So me and another girl paddled in. I wanted to see if they were ok. They were over it. I still needed to surf. SO I went down to a little less crowded area. That actually was starting to take off a bit. While I was out there, it started getting a bit more crowded. I went after a wave, wiped out. But I was fine, A girl came up and asked if I was ok. Guess the wipe out looked bad. HAHA, She thought her board hit me..She was no where near me. I said no you are cool..I was not close to you. It is all good. THEN I was able to catch a nice little ride. I was up, cruised all the way in. I FELT good, this is what I needed. I was getting the Zen feeling. I jump off my board knee deep in water. Took a breath was happy, went to get my board a wave of white wash comes up, POP goes my board like a pop tart flying out of a toaster, and SMACKS me in the left temple. I just said REALLY!!??? Grabbed my board, walked In, I was over it!!!

Went to my friend asked her what my face looks like it felt like a burning sensation. She said just a bit red, asked if I wanted Ice, I pissidly(is that a word?) said no. I wanted to go to breakfast get some mimosas. SO i went changed, while talking to a nice man in the car next to me, who never took his board out and surfed. Said the waves just weren't worth it. Went to breakfast with some girls and drank a few Mimosas. And I was bitchy about everything. But I still enjoyed out time.

My eye/temple never swole up, or bruised. STILL hurts and I keep feeling burning sensation. But Hey, I did get hit in the face with a surfboard. But you can't tell so I am sure I am fine.

also my advice DON'T go in with a negative attitude, Because you will carry that in there with you and it will affect you...NO BUENO..