Thursday, December 24, 2009


Well I guess I should post something.
I did take Tallulah out last week. Yeah the swell was big..but I stayed really close to the pier and the kiddie waves.. haha.. Although they were big enough for me. Blackies was soooooo crowded.. I caught 3 waves.. one I rode in crouched..learning my board and wet suit. Second was a lot to be desired.. just trying to standing..but I was trying.. and the third.. I rode in like a boogie board.. in the white wash.. that was still fun!!!!
I think my board is fine.... I just need to get use to her.. a lot different than the foamy...
My wet suit.. well I think I have good news and bad news.. It was too big.. so the good news is I lost weight =).. however I still felt like a contortionist trying to get into the contraption. It felt tight to me.. but water somehow got into my arms.. so when I was paddling it felt like I had weights on my arms.. It really was a lot of work to paddle..not that I can paddle with grace as it was..but this made it a lot harder.. I really think I would have caught more waves if my arms did not feel like lead sinkers. LOL But hey.. that made it even more of a workout!
AND.. I HAD FUN!!! Came to the conclusion that is all that matters.
I met a few guys out there.. all so nice.. I am doing a lot less kook type things.. so I think I am looking more and more like a surfer. hehe So people actually speak to me and talk about the surf.. I never act like I understand everything they are saying, but I smile a lot and go home and look it up or ask one of my surfing friends later.
The one Kook thing I did, was set my board up against my truck instead of laying her on the ground..However that made me a new friend! I am a believer everything happens for a reason. OK so I really knew not to do this..but I didn't want to get Tallulah dirty. haha!
Seriously I just cant wait to get back out there.. I know with perseverance.. trial and error and lots of practicing.. I am going to get this. I feel more and more confident each time.. I do know if I lived closer to the beach.. or didn't have a job.. I would be out there a lot more..and I would be a lot better by now.
Any way..Surfing has become the one thing I dream about the most and just cant get enough of. IT has somehow taken over me.. It makes everything I do revolve around it.. exercise, eating, my whole way of thinking has changed..
I am very glad to have found this sport....or as I am beginning to think.. this sport found me.
Merry Christmas everyone! Hope it is a wet and wild one!