Wednesday, March 27, 2013



Tuesday, March 26, 2013
Stolen Boards -- HELP FIND THEM PLEASE!!!!
Hi Fellow Bloggers:

Over this past weekend, Matt aka Donny Duckbutter organized another trip to San Onofre. It was a great weekend of surfing with friends and spending time with friends away from the hustle and bustle of LA, except that on Sunday, we had a rude awakening while packing up.. FIVE boards were stolen from us, right on the military base of Camp Pendleton. Here is a list of the boards stolen:

1. A 5'10" Yellow Zamora Quad Fish

2. Brand new 6'0" DEV motor boad round pin tail. The 6'0" DEV was a custom epoxy board shape for "Ricky."

3. Brand new 8'0" Becker with some red on the rails

4. 6'2" Channel Islands Flyer

5. 5'10" Quad Entrophy Fish W/bambo deck & a light green bottom.


Thursday, March 14, 2013

2 Days of Foggy Surfing!!

Went out surfingTuesday & Wednesday this week.
Yay for two days of surf in a row!!
I thought it was suppose to be hot and sunny and it was where I live..and I mean HOT!
But got to beach and Fog ..fog..and more fog.. Wednesday was worst than Tuesday.

Yep surf conditions were not the greatest either... again Tuesday being the better day.

So let's start with Tuesday cold,foggy,and maybe 1 or 2' with some 3 footers coming in on occasion... But the norm was more like 1-2.
I was really not feeling it.. My teeth were chattering and I don't like surfing in the fog! Just freaks me out not being able to see.. Barely see the pier!

But... My friend Dawn and Kim were saying come on we are already here .. Let's go!!
So they and hubs twisted my arm and in we went !!
We had the funnest time!!! We were laughing and going crazy and caught waves surprisingly !
Don't get me wrong they were soft and not easy to catch and a very short ride.
But one time we all paddled for a wave and I yelled party wave... As we paddled we all stopped and looked at each other ..the wave just disappeared...we started laughing and I said ok that was a party paddle!
We all for sure got our paddle on!!!
And we were just having the best time joking and making fun of our waves and how we were all surfing!
We seriously made the best of the conditions!!

Next day smaller surf... Way more fog!!! As a matter of fact we decided to have breakfast and wait for the fog to lift and supposedly surf conditions were going to be better a little later.
So we waited and ate at Charlies Chili.. I am watching what I eat .. Trying to lose some more weight.. I had a spinach and mushroom omelette with egg whites .. And side of cottage cheese and tomatoes .. But I did splurge and had an English muffin.

Also all these people showed up... I guess it's shoobie season again! Even in the fog people were showing up with umbrellas and tents popping up everywhere!
Even a school bus!!!

Then ... We went to check surf again... Hmmm not much has changed .. Fog lifted a bit.. But not much..Again Dawn was there and we headed in..

I caught a few and we had fun... But it was not as fun as the day before ... But again we made the best out of the time out there...
One thing that stood out.. While I was sitting out there in the fog.. I felt something hit my leg and freaked out... And then I see this long branch was floating next to me... It was big... Looked like a femur! I grabbed it and paddled to shore with it... That could hurt someone .. Dawn asked what it was ? I said its a leg bone!!! Really it looked like that.. But it was wood! I seriously almost jumped out of my skin over a piece of wood!

Both days we were out for an hour and 45 minutes and got cardio in right??? And... Of course quality time with hubs.

I forgot to mention hubs wetsuit ripped at the arm/shoulder when he was putting it on Wed. So he surfed like that... We decided to head to froghouse to get him a new suit.. We were hoping for used ... They didn't have any. We didn't have a lot of $$ but the great guys at the Froghouse hooked us up! And hubs got a new suit and picked up some wax too at a very good price!

Also last pix here.. Froghouse was selling any board on the floor in that pile...$50!!
Biggest board was an Al Merrick 7'6.. It was so thin though...but if I had extra$$ I would have bought it!

I have to say I have been enjoying surfing with hubs... It's really been strengthening our relationship.

My new saying ... Couple who surfs together stays together ;-)

Following are pix from both foggy days and my yummy breakfast!

Saturday, March 9, 2013

Again with the No pictures :-(

Well not a lot to report really.
Went out surfing with hubs last Wednesday... Before the big storm was to hit.
We got a late start , had to take the Diva(teenage daughter) to school and she had a late start day too!
Oh well my friends were not showing up till 9:00 any way.
But it was calling for negative low tide at 11:44 ... So we had a small window .

Showed up to Blackies (which by the way is having a lot of drama over a snaking incident over a week ago..that is resulting in a bunch of grown men acting like kindergartners ).. I joked before going out..Home break is Turning into West Side Story... But without all the singing and dancing and snapping!
I'm staying out of it.. I just want to surf and have fun!

So we arrive to a pretty empty parking lot.. Saw Susan who was driving down the street.. To check a few Jetties over to see if conditions were any better.. Said so far South of Jetty by where we park is best bet..
So we did not waste any time.. Got out of truck... Saw Laura suiting up she was heading out regardless of lack of surf!
Said same thing south of jetty best bet.
Hubs and I walked over to see and still not great but it was something ,a long lull but a few 2 footers came through!

So we ran back to car suited up.
With the tide and seems this small area between jetties was only game in town everyone was heading here... So we needed to hurry.

But vibe was chill... Susan, Laura, Jen O and hubs and I set out... Saw Sue in the line up and chit catted and then Rich and a few of his students showed up. So much Aloha in the water! It felt really good to be there!

Oh and I was expecting crappy weather.. But sun was out nice clear beautiful sunshiny morning! GOOD POSITIVE VIBE was happening!
So I share my first wave with Laura I go right and her left ! It was fun .. And seriously I just thought it would be a work on my paddling day! So I was stoked on the one wave!

Everyone was happy and catching waves and out side closer to the jetty came a few bigger sets.. Everyone said where the hell did this come from??
But it was short lived.

I caught another left and I guess I was in shock or something everyone said it was a perfect wave I was in the face it was a bigger one.. People were yelling pop up! But I just rode it in on my knees. I really don't know why! I so could have popped up... It was fast.. I think I was just in shock... But I guy told me I had the biggest smile and looked like I was having fun.
But feel I missed an opportunity .. I had this nice wave I was in it ...perfect and I blew it... I didn't stand up!! I have no explanation why?? I was a tad scared for some reason... Maybe it's because the drop felt so deep ... I didn't want to wipe out and I didn't want to blow the wave... I don't know???
I did have fun... But I wanted a do over ..
I did not get one. :-(

I had a wipeout after that and I caught a close out and some white wash..

Then I paddled to other side of Jetty... Because it looked better.. You know grass is always greener ... Yada yada... Waves always better ...
Well they were not all I caught over there was one wipeout and it seem shallower then the other side.....and hubs and Susan stayed over there and caught waves .. And was told hubs caught a killer perfect loooong left!!

I missed all the action!!!

Then hubs paddled to me to tell me all about it!

Then we came in called it a day told everyone in the lot who did not go out we had fun and it was a good day surfing!!