Friday, April 19, 2013

WOW I been surfing A LOT!!!!

Well I really am suppose to be looking for a job.. I really am! BUT I been given the opportunity to surf quite a bit lately..well for me anyway.. I know there are peeps who surf every day..I WISH!

I am gonna try and recall my surf days... if I can remember and get this salt water out of my ear..LOL..(thats a joke..when I forget something I alway say.. too much salt water ;-)...)

So where did I leave off.. hmm what was the last surf day I posted???.. give me a minute I have to think..maybe research.. Wed. the 10th was my last report..

I was going to surf Thursday..but did not..because surf report was not good.. I was even all packed and ready with surfboard in tahoe..then the reports started coming in.. DONT WASTE YOUR GAS.. SO I did not.. I did a run/walk workout instead.. I am sort of training my neighbor to run with me.. she gets a bit sad when I surf instead. =-/..but luckily she understands.. so No surf a run with my friend instead.

Friday the 12th YEP surf..and it was ok.. I surfed with Artie..I had 1 wave..and 4 of my wipeouts,I was in what seem to be maybe 3 feet of water at the most, and I wiped out and my surfboard above water went toward shore..with my left leg attached to leash upward pulling my body as my right knee was dragged across the sand bottom.. I kept tumbling..and finally was able to stable myself and pop out of water.. I was under for what seemed a while.. it would have been sad to drown in maybe 2-3 feet of water. geeesh! Then I caught this wave..and popped up in the perfect place..but my leash got all tangled and I could not pop all the way up without getting tangled... the strap loosened during my last wipeout and was up my calf and not by my ankle.. so I totally wiped out and probably looked very stupid too. I hade one more wipout..board smacked me in injuries..but decided ok..I need to get out.
I also went and worked out later that day.. at DSC in Costa Mesa, with Daniel Block.. it is a conditioning/training work out for surfers..a few Wahine Kai's go and I am trying it here and there. I have a lot to work on. I loved his workout..and cant wait till my pop up improves along with my stamina and paddle power. But since I am unemployed... I have the time..but not the money to go as much as I would like.

I rested Saturday.. because after surfing and hanging with Artie during the day then the DSC work out.. also went to a party and did not get home till 1:00 am.. I know party animal!!! So past my bed time.. so this granny had to rest Saturday..that was a LOT for me the day before.

Sunday.. went to surf..This was a solo mission.. SURF SUCKED.. it was windy..small and a bit drizzly actually... so I ran from Newport Pier to Balboa pier..walked to wedge..walked back to Balboa pier and again ran to Newport Pier..during my walk from wedge to pier I saw this awesome sign.. I need it for my fence!!!

Surf did not get better..but I went in for 30 minutes and just paddled..and paddled against the wind and the drift.. I would find a land marker and try to stay there..and paddle back when I drifted..I felt I paddled forever to get back..and I looked and I was at the same fricken spot.. UGH... well I worked my paddling mucsles.. I did catch two lil waves..but nothing eventful.

SO Monday and Tuesday no surf..

BUT WEDNESDAY..Hubs and I went out and our friend Stephanie and Betsy surfed.. Now this is funny..I am not the best surfer. Stephanie is an Awesome surfer..Betsy is newer.. I am gonna copy and paste the FB post from that day..I hope this work.. Just so you see the perspective of all involved.. HUBS was a bit scared to go out it was windy.. choppy and I would say 3-4 with some 5 feet waves..thats my perspective.. Hubs caught a nice long right.. I think I caught 2 maybe.. I dont remember. A year ago.. I probably would not have gone out on a day like this..I kept telling hubs "well going out on days like this makes you a better surfer..and better than not surfing."
This is how the FB post went:(Itook out last names for some privacy)

Laura: How was surf today? Big? Small? Windy?
Wednesday at 1:20pm via mobile · Like

Betsy: Yes. but mostly big and windy. and fast.
Wednesday at 2:06pm · Unlike · 1

Stephanie : medium to small waves, bumpy, jacking up a little...but super fun!!
Wednesday at 2:07pm · Like

Betsy: I guess it depends on your perspective.
Wednesday at 2:08pm · Like · 1

Michelle (Me): I agree with Betsy!!!
Wednesday at 2:18pm via mobile · Like · 1

Michelle (Me): I did not have that much fun surfing.. I has more fun socializing . Lol..
Wednesday at 2:19pm via mobile · Like

Stephanie: i always have fun. It's my escape.
Wednesday at 2:24pm · Unlike · 3

Michelle (Me): And your fun spills over to us.. And like I said.. No bad day.. When your in the water Stephanie.. Your awesome positive energy is contagious!
Wednesday at 5:15pm via mobile · Like

Then there was Thursday..yesterday..went to DOHO..very small..low tide..a bit of wind.. we ended up waiting for tide to fill in a bit..but were worried about it getting more wind.. so paddled out a bit earlier than planned.. GLAD WE DID!

Crew was Tracy,Laurie,Chris and me..I caught a few waves..and I had 2 fun long rides..I also had a short ride and I shared a wave with Tracy..which is always fun..
It was not as cold as I thought the water would be..the sun was out and it was wierd being low tide, you can see all the rocks..and the kelp was everywhere..but not too bad..but I hate when it wraps around your legs.. ugh.. eeeeeerie!

MY last ride was the best..I said to Laurie, "If I get this wave I am done" I did and litterally rode it to shore.. I mean litterally it was a long right.. they were all rights..but this was long and I stopped so close to shore. I took like two steps out and I was on dry land!
Tracy and I were suppose to do the DSC workout again..but as I keep telling people.. her and Laurie kidnapped me took me to a pub and poured beer down my throat and made me late and miss the workout!!!!! ;-).. I LOVE MY FRIENDS.. but seriously next week I WILL work out.

So now that brings me to today.. within this week as of today I had 5 surf sessions!!! That I think is a record.. I am however staying (since yesterday) at my friends beach house.. so I have to surf while here. So I surfed today and will again tomorrow.

SO today..I started surf with Joanne who left to go to work.. she was there all morning though..and totally out surfed me..Then Val and another Laura*(I surf with 2 Lauras now I guess) showed up.. so I was not alone again..
Betsy before I left had the wave of the day..she had this long right alllll the way down the line.. SHE has only been surfing since Oct..and is probably about my age..I am so jealous.. SHE rocks!

I think I am pooped and have no energy left. I surfed for 90 minutes..I caught maybe 2 waves.. there was no board was too small. Realized I needed to be inside more to catch anything.. then did this thing where I was playing in the waves on my knees and pushing my hand up towards the nose to see where i needed to put pressure to make my board move WHEN i did get a wave!! Put an X in the wax..
and when I caught a few waves.. I went up closer to the nose and pearled..and pearled again. or I caught the wave..and no power behind it.. stood up and the ride was over..Then When I caught A few nice ones.. well as nice as you can get on a 1 foot wave.. I go to push up and no power in my arms.. I could not push myself up to get to a pop up. I think I surfed too much.. is there such a thing??? My arms failed me! I just looked terrible out there today...but I did have things working against me.

OH!!! Another thing that happen.. I am sitting there and this BIG thing bumps my leg.. moves my foot. and I look down see this light grey figure about the size of my board. I let a little scream out.. IT WAS A SEA LION!!!! About gave me a fricken heart attack..

Well really thats it till tomorrow..I plan on getting up early and get some surf.. So I will end this long post and get some sleep and dream of catching something and have a better surf experience than I have been.. I really am not on my game...hmmm I need to work on that,

I also took adantage of being at the beach and enjoye a sunset walk.. here are some pix.

Till tomorrow!