Saturday, January 22, 2011


I truly feel this song is now one of my new favorites.. My favorite line when I looked up the Lyrics was this :

Oh momma, I wanna go surfin'
Oh momma, I don't care about nothing
Oh momma, I wanna go surfin'
Oh momma, I don't care about nothing

However.. I hear they are really saying (Obama I want to go surfin).. since there is a line that says this:

Wake up, there's a new kid in the town
Honey, he's moving into the big house
Remember when I was so very hopeless
Darling, he's gonna make it all better

I would think that would make more sense.. Except for I don't understand why they are telling Obama they want to go surfing?

ANY WAY! I like the beat and I like the song.. so I have it playing in my head a lot lately.

Well I didn't get to surf both of my days off this week. When other adult type responsibilities came up, to prevent me from surfing on Thursday.. I seriously almost started to cry.. ha! But I am an adult, Mom, Wife, Grandma,and have a job and other responsibilities.. even though Surfing usually makes me forget that.. and makes me feel like I am only a surfer.

One of my adult type responsibilities is cleaning my house.(unfortunately I am also the maid) While doing this I was trying to dust an air duct in my house, and since the step ladder I had was not tall enough, I decided to grab a bar stool from my breakfast bar area. I figurE.. hey I can balance on a surfboard..I can balance on this.. WRONG!!! So after I finished cleaning the air duct,(I at least got to finish the task at hand.) Me and the bar stool went crashing down. I have bruises all over my right side of my body and a bump on my head. You would tnik if I said, I fell off a bar stool, alcohol would be involved.. Or I got these bruises from surfing. But, NOT!

Any how.. since nothing was broken that I am aware of.. I decided I was still surfing the next day. Friday.. I just took Advil after the fall, Advil before I went to sleep that night and Advil the next morning before my Surf Sesh.

Got up at around 5:45 AM packed and left for the beach at 6:30sh. Was in the water just before 8 AM.. Tide was a tad high..but surf was not so bad.

I did not have a lot of stamina, I was sore and tired. (OH Yeah. I got to babysit my Grandson the night before. Even though I was tired and sore from cleaning all day, I cannot pass up an opportunity to spend time with that precious little man! I would have to seriously be on my deathbed to say no to that!) I had the hardest time just paddling out. It took all my energy. YES I was in pain too.

Regardless, I caught 2 decent waves in the hour and a half I was out there. FINALLY my husband(who does not surf) was able to see me ride a wave. He is always making fun of me, but yet is still supportive. I can't wait to get him out there so he can see it is not so easy.

I do want to point out, the first wave I finally caught, because even though I only caught two, I went after about 10.. HAHA. I believe I may have cut a guy off.
I think it was his wave, he was on the left of me and the wave was breaking right. But I went after it, and when I caught it I noticed he did too. I AM SO SORRY! I am still learning who has the right of way, I am not a vengeful mean surfer by any means. But he let me have the wave, he was very nice. I think he knew it was my first wave. I wanted to say something to him, like sorry and Thank You. But since at that time I was one of 3 females in the water, I have no idea which surfer he was. I do have to say the guys at our break are usually very chivalrous to us Wahine's. THANK GOODNESS.
There have been a few A-holes..but they are few and far between.

Seems like the waves were getting bigger and stronger as I was getting out. I really wish I felt better, I think I definitely would have caught a few more. But I just couldn't do it.

It is funny what Surfing has done to me... especially now that I can actually surf. I feel very lucky to have had the opportunity to get out there 3 times in one week. Sometimes I get out only once a month. Which is NO Bueno!

So that is why I posted this song too... I am at work today while all my friends are out playing in the waves.. and ALL I WANT TO DO .. Is "GO SURFIN"