Friday, August 21, 2009

What would you call today?

Well.. I headed out early today.. Surfboard.. check.. Bathing suit.. Sunscreen.. check.. wetsuit.. check.. Beach.. check.. Waves.. um waves.. hello where are the waves??? what waves?? More like ripples. I seen lakes with more waves. For all intentional purposes, I set out to surf today, I did bring the wrong board, just in case the surf report was right.. and it was.. But was willing to rent a foamy if need be. Not worth it!

So what would you call what I did today.. Paddling! Yep I basically was out in the ocean paddling. I worked on other things too.. like trying to catch a so called wave. Funny for as flat as it was..I am not sure why, it got crowded in the "surf" by 9AM.. But some people (not all) were catching what waves came their way. I told a lady I was more interested in what her and another lady, about my age were doing. I was watching them, and their form. I figure watching was part of learning, and I would learn more from females my age, instead of the 10 year old surfing girl & her dad who dominated the surf. Even though they were entertaining to watch. Any way, she was nice. She did inform me I had the wrong board.. I did know that. I just thought,I bring it out and paddle and what the heck. Again, it just was not worth going to rent a board. Maybe I should have.. but I decided to just play in the ocean.
It felt nice to go out past where everyone was waiting for some sign of surfage. I paddled, got some exercise even just laid down on my board. It was peaceful to just do that.

The good News, I am not tired, or worn out, or sore.. But for some reason.. I still got bruises on my knees, as always, and my arms.(who thought surfing without really getting to surf would still be so brutal?)
Even though, I was on the noticeably wrong board for me.. (which I am beginning to think, screams kook, more than a foam board, )I caught 2 waves. First one is not worth mentioning, I caught it tried to pop, and off the board I went. Second one I actually rode in...crouched..not kneed, of course I did not stand either. I was happy with that. Not to shabby for my 6th time out and only surfing for a whole month as of this week.

The weather was nice it was sunny in the morning, the water was perfect. Clean, not to cold, refreshing.. but Ironically when I decided to just rest on the beach. It got black balled, before 10 AM on a Friday, and the weather was starting to change.
I went and got some breakfast, walked the pier...Started to head home around 11 AM. Then I get a call from my Hubby (who works on the Fishing boats around the corner) he called me to meet him for a drink,So I did.

By the time I met him.. it was getting overcast and looked like it would drizzle. Perfect timing.

So all in all, not too bad of a day, I did get some exercise and alone time, I was in the Ocean on a surfboard....

But I wouldn't call it a Surfing day.