Tuesday, August 28, 2012

A lil update

Last weekend I went to Doheny again... Waves were 2-3 and the water was so warm.... Like 75 degrees warm!

But I didn't get to surf.... No.... But my hubs got to surf with MY friends at MY favorite surf break! That is just WRONG!!!!!!!!!!!

But I been sick and needed to save my strength for my first day at work...

Any way so I have been and still am sick ... My first day of work was not the greatest ... I coughed non stop all day! I was so embarrassed! :-(
So I am trying to absorb things while sick and not myself. I was drained and tired and stressed and was in bed before 9 pm.
As for my job.... I'm not sure yet... I don't even know what I'm suppose to do...things are not very organized.. Plus they use different computer programs and systems than I'm use to... Also the equipment in the office is a little more high tech than anywhere i work before... Which is kinda cool, but still frustrating at the same time....But hey it's only been 2 days I'm sure I will get it eventually.
Everyone In the office seem very nice and it seems like a fun nice place to work.
Also if I felt better, I probably would be looking at this differently. Plus I need to feel it out. And figure out my niche and when I do... Eventually I will be fine....I HOPE!

Why can't I just surf when I want and money magically appear???

Any way so here Are some pix from last weekend...

Sunday, August 19, 2012

Delightful Doho

I have never posted anything negative about Doheny.. Because that wave has never disappointed me! Sure it has the worst water quality reported in so cal... But the water always seems clear and pretty when I surf there.... However I am sure it's what you can't see that will hurt you :-/

Well I will take my chances Ha!
I do want to point out last time I surfed there and swallowed some water I did have a bit of a stomach issue for a while after that.
Right now I am nursing a cold..but still surfed and have No regrets!

Friday I surfed with hubs and a few of my gals from WK.. And a student who was interviewing a few of us for a thesis she is doing .
Well I had one of the BEST surf days of my life!!!!
The wave was perfect.. Fun gentle glassy 2-3 little easy rollers! Just what I so needed after last surf session!
I caught so many fun long rides... Mostly rights.
It all felt so natural and like I had been surfing my whole life and that it's just part of me!

My husband finally caught a few real waves .. He was super stoked as well. Although he was intimidated by the crowd . The vibe was great everyone was nice and having a great time. It's just there was A LOT of people.
So I had him come over close to us and surf in our group so we can block for each other!

Then my friend Tracy and her hubs Charlie showed up and that really boosted hubs confidence having Charlie in the lineup... So I left Brian in Charlie's hands. It worked perfect .. Plus I see a bromance flourishing lol

We all were just having one big party out there. As a matter of fact we had a few awesome party waves! Just pure epic stoke!

I surfed till I could not pop up any longer ! About 2 hours.
I tried to do a 2nd session after I rested a while .... I wanted it so badly.. But I had NO stamina left. Hubs said from shore it looked like I was barely paddling... I tried I wanted it I was not done ... But my body said otherwise ... So I just paddled in after being out for just a short time the second time around.

I also surfed in my board shorts and rash guard!

The peeps the weather the surf!
It WAS the perfect day!

Then while surfing I got a message on my phone that the job I interviewed for last week wanted me to call them back.
I did and they said after my last interview they thought I would be a perfect ft for another position in the company... A BETTER position!

So tomorrow I interview with the President of the company! So keep those positive vibes coming! Especially you Bron in the land of OZ..... I think your energy you keep sending me from Australia is working! Keep it up and Thanks!

Yep that day was a PERFECT DAy!!!

Pictures as follows are in the surf my friend Tracy on a wave... Hubs on a wave and hubs paddling out and hubs and Tracy outside and Other fun pix! My friend Jen got a picture of me riding a wave or two, when I get it I will add it to the pictures .

Wednesday, August 15, 2012

Different Perspective

It's weird
walking around your home break in the afternoon during summer and still Shoobie season...it's like it's not reality....

I decided to hang out a bit at Blackies from 2:00 pm till ??? Well I am still here blogging from the beach.
Waters warm slight wind and it's still pretty hot out just checked temp and 81 at the beach here in Newport according to the almighty I Phone.
So it's no wonder the beach is still crowded and peeps are still in the water!
It's just I feel it's not their beach and wonder if they really respect it like us "locals/surfers" do... Even though I'm technically not a local ...I am here on a regular basis and this is my home surf break... And I have been hanging out here since i was a teen! So there.....plus hubs works right off this shore too.

Another thing that is wierd is how it seems like such a different place.. Usually I drive through this parking lot and know 1/4 of the peeps.... Now nothing seems familiar... The people the fact there are no surfboards and a lot of out of state license plates ...

I feel everyone should enjoy the ocean.. I just hope they respect it!
... But I want my familiar back and am ready for all these peeps to go home!
Am I the only one who feels this way??

Saturday, August 11, 2012

Such a thing as a bad day surfing ?

I am gonna have to say yes! I mean I know it could have been a lot worse .... I did not get injured and conditions were not Big, or too crazy....and I am one who tries to even make a bad day surfing a good one!

I was too distraught to take pix so I google bad day surfing and this pix came up so I stole it! Because I felt like I almost died a few times yesterday! This pix made me laugh!Maybe the grim reaper was surfing next to me???

Maybe it was my mood ... Maybe it's because i had not been in the water in almost 3 week.... Maybe I was just expecting so much more.. Maybe it's because my friends were all talking about how great surf has been, however crowded!
Even today I have heard amazing fun reports today ....
So what... the 1 day I decide to use my gas $$$ which I have to really be frivolous about ... All this happens?!?!?!

Irma totally sold me and got me all hyped to drive down and surf! Not that I am blaming her for anything... Totally not her fault!

So I tell hubs come on let's go surfing !!!!!! Irma said suns out waters warm and surf conditions are perfect for me!!!
I put on my board shorts and pack a rashguard and throw in my shorty and a 3/2 just in case... Load up Mo and Zeus and head to the cliffs!! 2-3 with occ 4 is what I was told. We decide to meet at 10 am.

We get there early and do a drive by at Blackies !!! Windy and surf is like 1' crumbly mess!!
I text Irma reported what i saw ..she said yep wind was 6kts at Blackies but Cliffs are posting 3kt so anything under 5 is ok in our book! But where did this wind come from??? There was no mention of wind!!!

As we drive down the coast it's not looking very promising .. We see flags blowing straight .. No surfers in water from newport to HB and surf not so great!

We get to Cliffs .. Not as windy... Doable but still windy... People are surfing some shape to waves ... Perfect height 2-4...water is warm... We still were a little dishearten over the wind but decide to go in!

Irma shows up while we are getting ready ..hubs just wore his board short and a rash guard I put my shorty on.

We walk down the cliff to the beach and Irma is looking and says the rip is pretty bad.. We keep walking to find a place to go in.. A guy walks by us and tells us don't enter any where here the rip current is killer today ... So we keep walking all the way past the other parking lot. We decide to go in.

The paddle out was killer!! Not so much as being caught inside by the breaking waves as paddle your fricken heart out and not go any where and trying to get enough speed to get over the oncoming breaking waves was near impossible ! I tossed my board and dived under 2 waves to get out.. And just when I was almost outside another wave beaks and dude is coming at me. He looks as if he is going left so I paddle to his right and was gonna go behind him. Then his board turns and he comes right at me and the wave stats to close out! I threw my board and swam as far to the bottom as I could till I touched the sand with my leg attached to my board pulling the other direction. I start to surface and then before I could get to the surface I am tumbled like I was in a dryer! At this point I am running out of air and thought oh yeah I'm gonna drown! Then I was up and took a deep breath! Reached for my board and just wanted to get outside as fast as I could!
Super nice dude came and said I am Soo Sorry are you ok? Totally my fault....Where did my board hit you? Are you bleeding? I said no I am fine I dove as deep as I could hoping to not get hit!
We are both paddling back out! My focus and goal was to just get outside! He kept talking but I was dizzy and out of breath and was not having fun! I Swear it took me at least 20 minutes to just get out!

Hubs said later he saw the whole thing and didn't see me surface for a while and was really getting worried! He thought that guys board hit me and I was knocked out or something ..

When I finally got out to Irma I said I am not having fun! Told her I paddled in one spot forever and then that whole ordeal with the guys board! She said the rip current is BAD today and reminded me if caught to swim or paddle parallel to shore .. That is one thing I did know :-)

Hubs could not even get outside and later he said he didn't even have fun in the white wash!

After I got outside... I seriously had NO desire to catch a wave! I just did not want to fight to get back out again!
Then we noticed we drifted so far North we paddle south again. Between the wind and the rip that was way too much work!

I tried to go for 2 waves the whole time both wipe outs and both times I tumbled bad! Once swallowing some water!

I was so over it!!! I paddled in and called it a day!

I watched Irma and Karen and the others who joined us and only saw Karen catch a wave ... IDK if Irma got anything..but my point of view .... Only experience surfers and strong swimmers should have only been out there! I know Irma is much better Than I and I believe Karen and her friends were as well! As for me I felt I had more than one near death experience too many that day!

Found hubs on beach and said that just sucked! The only good thing is I got wet and the water was warm. The short time i sat outside was the only enjoyable moment!

He said he just saw my board flying all the time and really was worried I got hit by that guy!

I felt nausea after that session.. We had a long walk back to the Tahoe and decided to go for some Bloody Mary's.

I was and still am so discouraged by yesterday! If that was my first time surfing .. I would never surf again!

Luckily I know there are better days ahead ... But seems like this year it just has not been so great ....
I was hoping with the unemployment I would get more water time and sharpen my skills! But that has not been the case :-(

Speaking of which....

And this could be either good or bad news ... But I have a job interview on Monday. The job is 8:30 to 5:30 Mon. -Fri. and a drop in pay for me. If I get it.. But out of all the resumes I sent and jobs I applied to .. This has been the only interviewed offer ....so????

If anything good came outbid this... I did get 2 compliments on Mo... I had to convince a surfer this was not a Michinton board. But a Mere Made board with the whole story of how it all came about!

Wednesday, August 8, 2012


This is the Crowd when Kelly entered the water...
View to the left!
View to the right!

Yes I braved the last day of the US Open.. it is always the most crowded and craziest day. I am so glad they also decided to NOT have concerts on that day like previously. It Was Crazy crowded when Weezer played during the last day a few years back...Not only could you not move..it was so crowded it was hard to breath. UGGH! NOT ENJOYABLE!

I swore I would not ever go through that again. AND in All honesty..this year was not nearly as bad.

I have to say out of ALL my trips to the US Open...Day 4 of this year was my favorite.. see previous blog posts.

HOWEVER.. some pretty cool things happened on this day.

For one.. I was mere feet away from Kelly Slater in just a red towel.. NOTHING ELSE BUT A TOWEL.. OHHHHH my!!

I was chatting with Alain's(From AB Surfboard Repair..again read previous post) beautiful and amazing girl friend Lisa at the pros entrance when he appeared in just a towel. My hubs said there is Kelly Slater and I said, no I dont think that is him... see he walked by in another color rashguard than what he was just in, and I only saw the back of him... He wore a red rash guard or Jersey when he surfed against Dane Reynolds and changed into a blue one when he surfed against Miguel Pupo..so I guess he was just trying it on for size.. because...

...... HE only moments later reappeared in just a towel. I was prob hypnotized when I realized I should get a pix.. by the time I got the camera on my I phone up and ready.. HE WAS GONE!

Oh and Yes I FINALLY was able to meet Lisa... she is such a doll and her and Alain were hobknobbing with all the pros and their familys in the VIP area.. because they were and are V I P's..

I got my hair cut at the Paul Mitchell booth for $15 and the money all goes to Life rolls on.. A great charity check them out here if you are not familiar with


Also the high-lite of the day(besides the winners) was when Kelly Slater was surfing and shot the pier and went to the North Side and totally dropped in on an unsuspecting surfer..THAT was priceless. CAN you imagine that surfer and the amazing story he has to tell for a lifetime !!!

Hubs was Happy he got pix with the "Fox" Girls.. but he thought they were the Roxy Girls. LOL..Our Friend Donald is on the left and hubs is the one a little too excited on the right.. Plus I had to let hubs have some eye candy.. only days before I had Rob Machado, Sunny Garcia and Brett Simpson. LOL

Also right before this picture a super cute lil old cute asian lady asked if we could take her pix with them as well. I thought how fricken cute is she!!

Well other than that the Brazilians were crazy and sat behind us on the Beach.. because they had Miguel Pupo and Gabriel Medina in the Finals. Seriously though I thought for Sure Miguel was gonna take the US Open..HE was so Amazing!

But if you don't already know Julian Wilson and Lakey Peterson won the US OPEN..A big congrats to them!
My I phone died.. so I did not get any further pix.,... AND I really wanted to get some when Lakey and Julian won... BUMMER.. oh and I really wanted a pix with Rockin Fig..call me crazy..but I was so impressed with him.

That is all...


Friday, August 3, 2012

More from day 4 of the US Open

I am just so stoked on my Rob Machado story... I wanted to give it it's own post... Such a sweet story. I included a few more pix of Rob here too.. One was taken with a friend Alain ... But I stole it and cropped it.. Tehe.. I hope Alain doesn't mind.

Any way I was able to meet and see a few other surfers as well. I think Tuesday was one of the better days .. Not crowded, well not as crowded as it can get! Everyone I think I wanted to see surf ..did that day :-)
Rockin Fig was a fun commentator on the beach.

A few of my favorite peeps were with me ..Irma, Laura and Tracy...
I finally got a US Open umbrella ... I have been wanting one the last 3 years
I also love the color theme they used this year... Black,teal, and blue... I got a way cool black Umbrella .. Thanks to Irma for getting there early.

Surf conditions were better than last year.. But still really not all that great! But the pros made it look easy and fun riding on a lot of closed out waves!

I want start by saying I FINALLY was able to meet a FB friend face to face! He is a ding repair guru... He was the official Ding repair dude at this US Open. Funny the last 2 Years it's been my friend Molly Logan.
Any way Alain from AB Surfboard Repairs was the man this year and I finally met him in person ..and he is a very positive and extremely nice guy! So I had to get a pix with him too! If anyone needs some dings repaired .. He comes highly recommended by the pros by the way ;-)... Check him out at www.absurfboardrepair.com

Well onto the pros.. I met Courtney Conlogue and took a pix with her! I was wondering if it seemed a tad creepy to have a middle age grandma get excited about taking a pix with her?... But I'm so proud of her because ,like me, she is from Santa Ana which is a bit of a rough hood to grow up in . Especially for a white girl. So to have an amazing talented female surfer rise from there!! Hell Yeah! ....and she is just the sweetest girl too!

Then there is the HB hometown hero. Brett Simpson.. But in all honosty I swear I always see that boy in Newport and HB.... But I got a pix with him too!

Then there is Sunny Garcia ....I love his smile!!! I was a bit intimidated to ask for a pix from him... I hear he can be a little mean. But he was not! He was happy to take a pix and again he has a very charming smile..Actually I was a little smitten after meeting him! He is one of the hubs fav surfer so I got a pix with him to make him jealous ;-) ha!

Sage Ericson walked right in front of me so I snapped a pix of her.

And the man himself Kelly Slater! I was 2 feet away from him. But his security team was tight and there was no getting near him when he got out of the water!
But I did hear about 20 minutes later after the days events ended he came out for photos. So my friend Irma's photog friend Kevin took a pix with him. I zoomed in on Kelly and cropped the pix ;-)...my friend Mitzi should not have taught me this in the I phone ....it's my new addiction.

The weather was beautiful and it was just one of those days, that I'm gonna put down as a favorite in the memories book .

Surfers just Fricken Rule!