Tuesday, September 20, 2011

So what's a Surfer Girl to do?

So I had an unexpected nothing planned 5 days off! So as my title says.. What is a Surfer Girl to do? Well take 3 of those days and surf. Yeppers and that is what I did. First day, Since it was a last minute thing about my days off, I decided to clean my board and put a few clear ding stickers on some cracks and some fresh wax! WITH the shoulder issue I had to do that in long drawn out stages. But I was so happy when I was done. I sat in my garage just inhaling the wonderful smell of fresh surf wax. VERY intoxicating. SO next day(Friday) Loaded Tallulah in the Tahoe and headed to Blackies, after taking my youngest, the Diva to school. It was a bit windy and crumbly, but was 2-3 with a rare 4 coming in from the outside. I only surfed for 30 minutes, Did not accomplish a whole lot. Was more of a conditioning session I guess. I caught a few but very bumpy rides, really not a lot of fun. Also I feel less confident when I am out there without my girls, or not really knowing anyone. BUT better than nothing. My husband came to meet me for Breakfast since his morning trip didn't leave the dock. I could have surfed a bit more. BUT he really wanted to eat. So we did and when we were done.. The Beach was a windblown mess. SO glad I got out when I did.

So I felt good, Shoulder was sore but not as bad as I was expecting. Took advil did some stretching and rested it for the evening.I also applied some Salon Pas patches overnight. Helped the muscle ache part of the pain.

GOT up early the next day to meet some WK gals at Bolsa at 7 AM. A few of us Surfed South and some friends surfed on the other side of the bridge. A few other friends surfed North end and one, was one tower over where we were initially all gonna meet and surf. Even though we were not all together, WE all had a blast. Smaller than the day before, BUT not as much wind. Waves were fun and we surfed for about an hour. GOT 5 waves..2 waves I dedicated to 1) popping up and crouching and controlling my board, and 2) I went left then turned right... Just to see if I could.. AND I did. I was not tired, but shoulder and back and neck were starting to act up. THOUGHT hmm should get out, DON'T push it or over do it. IT was a good hour. I am happy I lasted. One of my friends was the last one out and I think she was in there for almost 2 hours. We all wondered where she was, but she was having so much fun. She didn't want to come in. Then she left with another girl to go paddle boarding after that. I wish I had her and some of my other friends stamina. ALSO I LOVED this surf sesh and I love surfing with my girls, We hoot and holler for each other over the smallest thing. BUT it really means the world! I have a lot more confidence when they are in the water with me and my surfing is sooo much better.

Sunday I rested. I almost went out and met the girls at Bolsa again. But really did not want to push the shoulder. But part of me is regretting not going, I think I would have been ok.

Monday, Went back to Blackies, Solo. My 17 year old went with me and watched, she had a Dr. apt that day.. so I took her with me first. Surf not so great, Just ankle biters as seen in picture below, was taken that day. A bit windy too. BUT not a lot of people out. I decided to get wet any way. YOU know what???I had fun, I was by myself, (well there were a few other peeps in the water, BUT I might as well been by myself) practiced my pop ups. Not a lot of inertia behind the wave, so made some short rides. BUT the vibe was good, there was some dolphins who made an appearance. I stayed out for 1 hour and 15 minutes. My daughter said on some rides I looked a bit shaky. I guess I need to work on that. Sometimes I ride like the wind, other times I look like it is my first day out. I think it is good to practice on bad days, and get something out of every minute. I am glad I did. Because even a not so great day surfing is better than not surfing at all.

Monday, September 12, 2011

So much to say.. so little space!

Ok I will try to get all this in. LETS start with this!

Yep Made it into a surf magazine.. AND not just any surf magazine..but my FAVORITE.. WSSM..sorry don't mean to brag.. but am very stoked about it. It is actually a Q and A written by my good friend about our club president and I was lucky enough to be in one of the pictures they chose...

Now onto this. LOOK WHO IS HOME! Picture of me and my son Branden who just got back from Afghanistan and came home to Cali for a little R & R.. and guess what I did with him.. ???
YEP took him to the Ocean and got him on a surfboard.

It felt funny teaching my 25 year old Soldier Sgt In the US ARMY how to surf. BUT what I thought was funnier is 30 minutes into it he says he is tired. WHAT? Hey we only just begun... SAYS the 40 something mom/grandma nursing a sore shoulder who has been out of the water for what over a month..plus these were very easy conditions, 1-2 footers, with a very easy paddle out and lots of lull in between sets. I thought you were Army strong ;-)?..He liked it, never really popped up but did get to his knees and was catching his own waves and was out past the break with me. HE tried. One time I just surfed right past him and said what you letting your mom pass you by? BUT it was all in good fun. He had the biggest smile on his face when he caught a wave all the way to shore rode it like a boogie board, He didn't pop up but who cares,He was having a blast. WE did surf for 1 hour and 40 minutes. They blackballed the beach and I figured that was a good time to go in. Especially since my Doc said 30 to 45 minutes at a time. I was in for 1 hour and 40 minutes. BUT a lot of that time I was explaining to my surfing soldier what to do. I LOVED every minute of sharing something I love with my oldest child. It was a great day!

So yep got back into the water. I had 9 day vacation and was only able to surf 1 of those days. I did good too, shoulder held up, so that is what matters. I did take Advil before and after and I was a little sore after, but not nearly as bad as I thought. I am now down to going to the chiropractor every other week. So yep getting better. MY son(the massage therapist) helps me a lot too.

Oh and the reason I was only able to surf 1 day.. was because I was so busy doing stuff with my son and his family, Catalina Island, Disneyland, Shopping, Park. Etc.. I am in need of a vacation from my staycation. But would not change a thing. Was gonna go surf Saturday AM..but we had that freakish storm... then Sunday I was just too tired. So I got my sleep on. Life is good right now. I am one Happy Surfing Grandma!