Well I surfed today.. and my friend and "Free" and very much appreciated surf instructor Natalie came out with me. I learned a lot!! I feel like I was totally beaten up today by the waves. ALL new experience for me today. I was in 3 foot waves.. on a real board.. with wave after wave after wave. the sets were coming in fast. Last week I was waiting for waves today.. just too many.
I ended up renting a foamy.. more familiar and comfortable. May not have been so bad if the waves were not as big and they just never stopped coming. I feel I spent most of my time in the water jumping on coming waves than surfing them.. if that makes sense. I really feel the ocean beat me up today.. LOL. I messed up my back and have so many bruises.
Well it was a whole new experience on a real board..not the right type for me. The board was not familiar..it was lighter, and it was shorter than I was use too, and I was not comfortable on it..and the beach/ocean was a lot different today than the last couple times I went out. That made for a whole new experience.
I did learn how to wax a board,,and that there is different types of wax for water temp. and you need a base coat and a top coat..........and it is a lot of work to just do that.
I learned balancing on a real board is harder and different. I tried though....and I tried.. but I needed a foam board, I was getting beat up and tired. I can't believe how many bruises I have. LOL
I also learned why my pop up sucks..I was doing more of a lounge and putting a lot on the back of the board.. I think I got it now.
Good news .. My new wetsuit was perfect.. It felt OK and better than the rental.
So today ....tough the surf ate me up and spit me out...LOL. but I learned a lot more... It was only my 5th time out...so I guess I am on track..
I didn't die. Just a bit bruised sore and very tired.
Don't know when I will get back out maybe in a week..But as hard as it was.. I am definitely doing it again!!!
