Tuesday, March 29, 2011


This is what I have been doing.... and dreaming about too!

AAAAAGGGGGGHHHHHH.. Spring is in the air.. it is finally going to start warming up. I hope the water does too. Maybe I can ditch the 4/3 put on a 3/2 soon, or even better a SPRING SUIT! One can only hope..BUT it is feeling great outside, I got the itch to do something outdoorsy! SPRING FEVER IS HITTING and I definitely NEED to surf. BUT..alas...I am stuck behind a desk at work in front of a computer..so if I cant surf, or enjoy the outside. I am at least going to blog about it.

I have not surfed in I don't know how many days. On my days off it was either raining, or the water was dirty, or surf just sucked..and basically when all my friends were surfing I was stuck at work...but in all reality I don't think many of my friends surfed much lately either.. So not to be a brat..but that does make me feel better.

I am looking forward to Thursday....my next day off. I am so in the water. EVEN though I will be out late Wednesday night. I have a friend who now lives out of state, visiting for a bit,she is an amazing singer, songwriter, guitar playing,BEYOND talented, all around GREAT person! She will be doing a local gig Wed. night. SO I hope I get up the next day to catch a few waves..because I need to.
I have been having a lot of stress lately, and I really think it is intensified by not being in the water. I have not had any social life or surf life in a few weeks..and that makes for dangerous conditions for those around me.. family and work. SO... the count down to Thursday is on..

ALSO..Saturday, our surf club is planning a road trip. IF it all works out in the transportation area.. I will be blogging soon about surfing a new uncharted spot for me. CAN'T wait.. very excited.

Well for now all I can say..for those of you lucky enough to enjoy this weather. Have fun outside..and don't forget the sunscreen.. YES that big yellow thing is the sun..and for my surfing friends that are out there,and will be until Thursday, catch a few for me!!! But please save me some on Thursday.. I really need them.

Sunday, March 20, 2011

The Surfer "Stereotype" and other stuff!

So when people find out I surf..almost instantly they say. WOW I would never peg you as a surfer. The first thing that comes to most "non" surfers mind is the infamous or famous Spicoli. I guess this is the "typical" Surfer Stereotype. The long hair, ungroomed, stoner, not a care in the world, or a braincell to spare. OF course male..and the female stereotype.. GIDGET.. hahahahaha.
Well in all honesty.. I know a lot of surfers and I only can think of one person who comes close to a Spicoli. Really no "Gidgets". I don't know maybe it is because I mostly surf with a bunch of middle aged women..haha! But some of these women can out surf peeps men and women 1/2 their age!
Any way...I don't know if there is a Surfer Stereotype any more really.
The other thing is I am of Caucasian persuasion..and I have a lot of English, German and Welsh in my gene pool so I am WHITE! I have strawberry blond hair and green eyes.. which = does not tan well. People are always saying you are always surfing why are you not tan. One of the few misconceptions about surfers, we are not all tan. WHY?? UMM well I surf in a full size 4/3 wetsuit, now with booties. and because of my fair skin,and skin cancer history, I slather any exposed areas with 50+ Sunscreen or Sunblock. Maybe if I lived in a warmer surf climate I would have a little more color, Not much with my heritage though.
I will say..I have changed a lot since I started surfing. I don't know if age has anything to do with it as well. BUT I am not as concerned about some things as before. Yet am more concerned about environmental issues and healthy lifestyle.
I have never been one for "fashion" I have always kind of had my own style. I am a very unique person and have been known to sport a few "different" looks. NOW I am a lot more casual. Even at work. I dress work appropriate and put on makeup. I should probably look a little more um "corporate" for my line of work I guess. But I wear my hair more naturally than before. Sometimes I flat iron it.. or curl it, if I feel like it.But usually I just blow dry it a bit and let my wavy hair fall where it may. I am not into designer anything. I would ooh and aaah over a few designers like Betsy Johnson, or LAMB..but that is about it. After all I am a girl I have a Little girly in me. Jewelry as I have said before. Don't care for the high end stuff I LOVE unique simple things.
My favorite things to wear now. Winter = old pair worn Levis handed down to me and from a thrift shop with a t-shirt & a Baja poncho.(closest thing to Spicoli) or a Sweat shirt,and my Sanuk sidewalk surfers. I think I am in that outfit more times per week than any thing else. As soon as I come home from work that is what I usually change into.My neighbors probably wonder if I have other outfits. Summer my bathing suit and wetsuit ;-)..OK my winter outfit of choice also..but in summer I like to sport my shorty and winter the 4/3. or when Out of the water. comfy shorts and a tank top and flip flops. Hair is always natural now. Although I do tend to (cough cough) cover up the gray.
Make up when needed. But not to be vein.. thank the good lord, I don't need it all the time I have been blessed with that! At least I think so. ;-)
OK so it is not that I have become Lazy since I started surfing. I just am more laid back and casual and want to be comfortable and concern myself with more important issues.
The other thing is.. seriously even though I don't really tan. I would try to lay out in my backyard and get a little color before being seen at the beach. AND have my toenails painted and always shaved legs.. NOW.. this maybe too much info.. I don't care. I care more about getting into the surf than if my legs are shaved...and as long as my toenails don't look gnarly and are trimmed( i mean i do have limits)who cares about being polished all the time.
Also I am so whatever about changing in and out of my wetsuit and wet bikini in the parking lot. I do have a towel wrapped around me sheesh!..but every now and then some one gets a bit of a peep show I am sure.Not that there is anything exciting about that at my age. IF someone gets a bit excited about seeing my white butt, you are welcome and I guess thank you. HA! But I will get fully undressed under a towel while having a conversation with a male surfer standing right next to me and not think twice..ASK me two years ago if I would consider that and I would blush and say Oh Hell no.
So I guess I have embraced the surfing culture. It just kind of happens. At least to me it did. NOW I am not saying I go out and just buy ROXY, Billabong, and other surf brands..to me that is kind of "labels" also..but I do have few things in my collection. After All I am at the beach and surf shops a lot..If I see something I like and can buy it I do. But not just because it is a "surf" brand.

Surfers come in different sizes, colors, ages, and shapes, and sex. Some have degrees, are Drs. Lawyers, Musicians, Cocktail servers, Models, Actors,Parents,Grandparents, Aunts and Uncles.

So what is the Surfer Stereotype now? I really can't answer that, but I consider myself a surfer, and am glad to be part of this Tribe.

PS!! No I have not been out surfing since the last post. My last couple days off, waves were either too big or surf was just down right bad. So I saved the gas and time. Now with the weather forcast..All I see is rain =( so i dont know when i will be able to again!

Monday, March 14, 2011

A few things.. Surfing, Surf Related, Feelings and also Japan.. not necssarily in that order!

SURF RELATED:.. I would like to start with a gift my daughter gave me. It is a beautiful surfboard necklace and matching earrings with Plumeria flowers. I have a lot of jewelry that represent the ocean, and Hawaii. But this is my first piece of "surf" jewelry. I love it and wanted to share! I am not a big person for diamonds, Tiffany or any other designer anything for that matter. I am more about the simple stuff, unique stuff and the meaning behind it. SO THANK YOU MIKALA.. I love it! I just had to share, I thought it was so beautiful..and she earned it helping out at a trade show that is related to fishing and other outdoorsy stuff with a good friend of ours. Instead of getting herself something she got me something. I think that is so sweet. OH but don't fret.. she also got paid monetary compensation as well.

SURFING: I surfed yesterday Sunday. My home break. Yep it was crowded of course because it was a decent surf day. I say it was 3'-4' but my friend who knows way more about surfing than I said it was a 3' set day. So lets go with her take, she is more the expert.
Any way... I did good, I think I did anyway. Caught a few good waves one yucky wave but did paddled for a lot more in between.
My first wave of the day, I caught rode it nicely and decided to turn..and I did..my first planned out and accomplished turn. I think that was my favorite part about yesterday. I have turned before. But this turn was completely 100% orchestrated.
My main goal this time out, was to work on my pop up. I am trying to POP UP.. not crawl up.
Another wave I caught and rode in..pop up could have used some work, not as fast as the other. But I will take it. It was still a fun ride, and I feel I had a bit of control.
Yet another wave, I totally wiped out head first. wwwwoooosh bash slam..Pearled!!! Yep. BUT as I was doing it. I knew what I was doing wrong. I caught the wave, was not looking forward but down,(you are gonna go where you are looking so never look down) I keep getting told this, but for some reason don't always obey it. Also I was positioned too forward on my board. Well as I started to pearl I thought I could fix it. As my nose headed down, I tried to scoot back on my board and look at the shoreline..but it was too late. Over I went, remembered to cover my head, and swam up and found my board. No injury's. YEAH! BUT at least I realize what I am doing wrong. I love learning and acknowledging I am learning. So maybe next time I will not do it. Yeah right!!.. We will see. LOL
I was starting to get tired and weak.. I wanted to get out and worked hard to get outside with all my friends. ONE time I was paddling and turtling and finally was hands length to my friends wave broke, I turtled. Came up. Saw another wave with my friend coming right at me on it. I said. F- - -!!!(fill in the blanks) I think she said the same word. I just plopped on my board turtled again and hoped for the best. Nothing happen. THANK GOD! Then before I could get to my friends, I was pushed back again So close to them, but yet so far. I was so exhausted I turned around and took a wave coming at me. Hit a kids board. WHO always seem to be in the way yesterday. I was over it. LOL
And my last wave, I caught on the inside. By now my arms were like limp spaghetti, I had no strength at this time. The paddle out seem longer and harder than normal that day. It was a lot of work for me. I did get out past the break a few times. Seem like the sets just kept coming,and were fast and had lots of power,and as I got one foot forward I would get pushed 2 feet back. I turtled a lot yesterday, getting over my fear. BUT I still cant swing back over. I can turtle, hold the board wave goes over and then pop back around. BUT I can never magically be right back on top of my board. I have no idea how that is even possible?? But I guess that is how it is suppose to be done??? I of course one time turtled come back up just to be hit with another wave. I hate that because you come up for air, take a deep breath, wave hits..and mouthful or more of salt water. Yuck yuck yuck! WHICH always makes me sick and nausea for the rest of the day. ANY way My last wave I was shaky my arms had no strength. Caught a nice lil wave, tried to push up .. NO strength in my arms...my body fell right to the board I had no choice but to ride it in like a boogie board. I so did not want to be done. The waves were fun. I wanted to stay..BUT my body said. YOU ARE DONE! I was feeling nauseated from the "Salt Water cocktail" I again consumed. Mind you also I had to wake up an hour earlier (first day of daylights savings time) so I was up at 5:30 which technically was 4:30AM. I had to paddle harder yesterday, and I think that, along with the combination of possibly being dehydrated..according to my friend in the medical field. I also cramped up in my right side of my ribs while taking off my wetsuit, which could also be a sign of dehydration. All played a roll in my weakness. So who knows??
I surfed an hour and a half. I had an overall great time and of course was in GREAT company. Had a few of my surf club girls out there with me. Even though I have to admit the rest of the day I was sore, sick from the salt water, and exhausted and at the point I really could not see straight and just flat out spent. I would not have had it any other way.

FEELINGS:I also wanted to comment on a few other feelings I have about surfing. Yesterday when I was done and finally able to soak in a hot bath. I think about my day,what I learned that day. GO over and over each wave I caught and what I did, what surfing has done to me in general, how it has changed me, Who I am now because of it. I thought a lot about what I wanted to put in my next blog post. But since this one is so long. I think I will save some of that for another post another day. Also I wish I wrote down some of my thoughts yesterday to share, because now I don't remember some of the good ones.

JAPAN: On my mind and in my heart ever since I heard the news. I have no real words to express my feelings. I am at awe regarding ALL the devastation they are going through. It seems so unreal to have that much destruction in such a short time.I feel like I am watching a movie when I see it all on TV...but it is real life and really happening. I still can't wrap my mind completley around it!

Biggest Earthquake we have ever seen!!
The most devastating Tsunami in our time!!
Nuclear Power plant on meltdown!!
No power and don't know when they will get any!!
People have lost lives!
Love ones have lost love ones!
Not just home but whole villages gone, erased away. People lost everything..
NOW they have the weather and below freezing temperatures to deal with.
Basic food, water, shelter and medical care.. scarce.
THE clean up. HOW do you clean it up? There are freight liners washed up so far inland.
The uncertainty of it all!

ALL I can do is offer positive energy, thoughts and prayers to all who have been touched by this tragedy.

I want to end this post with a quote I read,It was posted by BuddhaGroove, in regards to Japan..

"Nobody can do everything, but everybody can do something." -Unknown

Sunday, March 6, 2011

My Love affair with surfing trumps the Break I dread going to!

This is a picture of the infamous break..BUT not taken yesterday.BUT it looks a lot like our day yesterday SO I thought it would work!

I was able to get in the water yesterday. I surfed a break that is not one I enjoy.. I have never had anything good happen to me there. It is a longer paddle out, Usually windy, Usually closes out and almost always breaks on shore. Not a sandy break, if i don't wear booties(which I rather not if I don't have to)my feet get a bit scratched up, rocky and broken shells. Need a state pass or belly up the $15 fee. But I usually carpool THANK GOD FOR FRIENDS WITH PASSES!

First time I surfed there. I was actually sick and didn't really know it till the next day. So trying to surf when you are sick is not fun I had no energy, kept feeling nausea and just needed to be in bed.. Then the other time I tried. It was too big and I could not get outside. I was a real beginner and it was too much, and I was scared to death of these waves. Then one time drove down and it was breaking on shore and it was so bad, we just took a walk instead. One time I went with a friend and any time I got a wave..if I did ,I wiped out..but The sting rays were every where and when I wiped out I as so afraid of them I just kicked madly not to touch the bottom. Then one time it was foggy and it freaked me out so I didn't want to go in. Just never fun times.The waves are different there. I can't explain it but This Break just rubs me the wrong way..THE GOOD THING about it is, it is not as crowded as my home break. A lot of people say it is a good begginer break..but I dont see how?

BUT it was the only surf in town. So we decided to check it out.
There was 6 of us and we sat and watched the waves, as we waited for the tide to go down. Regardless we were going in. I had a friend who already came and went and said it was not so great. BUT when you need a fix. You take what you can get. The last time I surfed was two weeks ago. I remember when I didn't even surf that much..I was OK with surfing when I could BUT NOT NOW. I have to try at least every week.. and if I have to go about 2 weeks without it, I get antsy!

So we waited for the tide to go down suited up and went in. Water was freezing but the day was sunny and warm. Paddle out was not so bad, the swell seem like it was trying to produce some big waves, but they never broke and when they did it was on the shore. That was a bit intimidating to see a swell coming and this is how I think "oh wow this is gonna be big, I don't know if I want to try this.. I am still afraid of bigger waves"... but most of them just never performed. Just rolled right by or you paddle and nothing, never breaks... Part relief, part disappointment. But some did break..I only caught 3 of them. 2 wipe outs both times I pearled. I HATE THAT!! one wave I caught and just boogie boarded it in. Not enough time to stand. some of the other girls caught a few rides. but they were few and far between for them.The rides were short too.

I did stay out in that break the longest i have, so I take that as an accomplishment. I would really like to work on a few things. Especially since seeing my pictures from last time.. like not popping up like a grandma, and remembering to stay low. I get a bit discourage, when I can't work to improve myself. BUT ALL IN ALL.. I did get some exercise, paddling work out and I got wet..Also It was a nice sunny day and I was in good company.

Even though this was not my BEST day surfing.. but as for this Break.. it was probably the best time I have had here to date, I will give it another chance one day... But it is still not on the top of my list!

Wednesday, March 2, 2011

Gas Prices Putting A Wrench In My Surf Time

So I always thought that surfing was a relatively inexpensive sport.. My impression when I started was all you needed was a board and wet suit... but, I didn't take into consideration you need more than one wet suit and want/need more than one board,(Currently I have one 4/3 and one 3/2 and two spring suits and a foam board(totally grew out of, but my daughter uses it) and Tallulah my pink and purple 9' Goddess)Am looking forward to getting an 8' board in the summer to add to my quiver and a surf mat.. (I am hearing FUN things about these mats lately)

Anyway... I thought the Ocean is free..also, didn't take in consideration usually you have to pay for parking, or buy a state pass, that I still cannot afford. Plus you know extras like booties, leashes, racks, wax, sunscreen.. etc etc.. all in all it is still more affordable than other sports..and as I say is so much more than a sport.. BUT when you live 37 miles from the beach and gas prices are reaching $4.00 a gallon and you drive a Tahoe...finances lately are not what they use to be, Thanks to this great recession..THIS ALL is making me a bit nervous as to WHEN and how often I will be able to surf.. this does not make me happy.. I was already having a difficult time getting my surf on.. just one more thing to make it that much harder!

See this surfing thing is not only an addiction.. It is also my stress release,my favorite exercise, also helps with my spiritual growth... Surfing is so much more than just surfing, It makes me an all around better ME! SO I feel I am being Challenged with these gas prices here.. I already have to work around a full time job, kids, husband, living such a long distance from the Ocean, Not to mention the weather and surf conditions..NOW this!?

I always heard if you want something bad enough, you can get it!! IF there is a will there is a way! and to quote NIKE.. just do it! I am not a quitter! SOO I am determined not to let this stop me. Even if I have to Beg, Steal or Borrow.. OK well maybe not steal, I don't believe in that! REGARDLESS........