Saturday, October 20, 2012

Surf surf and more surf

Wow!!! Something I have not done in a while... Surfed 3 days in a row..
.... And you know what if I had gas $$$ and time it would have been till Friday!!

Since I already wrote about Monday...(the best day) I will just update you all on Tuesday and Wednesday...

Tuesday I ended up at the Beach late... Like after 1 pm.. I had to run my son around .... A bit bummed because I did hear Tuesday in the a m was better than Monday morning:-(
Any way when I got there it was a tad breezy... Onshores... And 1 foot walled dumperamas!!!!!
I decided I really needed to build up my paddle muscles and the water was warm plus there were other surfers out there... so I threw on my long sleeve red rash guard and board shorts went and just paddled around for an hour and caught just one shoulder... A short little left.. Felt like as soon as I was on the board I was rash guard kept creeping up while paddling it was very uncomfortable... Note to self don't use red rash-guard again.
... And that was that for Tuesday!

Wednesday was a different story!!!
Hubs tells me the night before we are getting up to surf at 5 am... But if you read the tide.. It is not going to be good till like 9am... He is all about being early and missing traffic...
... But guess who got to sleep in till 6 am?? And yes we had terrible traffic :-(
We got to the beach about 7:30-7:45...
Tide was low and no shape they were a lot of walled close outs... I told hubs...let's wait it is not looking good to me... I think later wil be better.. ( I am so proud I'm finally really reading and understanding surf charts and reports and waves now) it took a while and I still question myself...
When we were driving down I noticed the flag at Hoag hospital was flying in the direction of offshore winds... But at the beach the flag was barely moving .. Bit when it did .. Everytime I looked at it .. Was a different direction.. But mostly the winds were coming from the south..

At this time I went to get a yogurt and noticed a familiar looking face at a van.. On my way back I said hey.. Are you the guys from the blog the Oh Sea? The one kid said yeah. I told him I enjoyed his blog and l love the pictures I introduced myself as the surfing grandma of the OC (ha like i'm anyone!! )Nice kids.. If you never seen the blog it is one I have on the right > here that I follow.. Check them out.. They seem to travel a lot too.. To me the blog is like a surf mag.. Pix are awesome!!

After walking back to the wall one of our surf compadres ,Todd pulled up and asked how it looks ? I said a bit closed out.. He looked and said yep... It's walled but should get better a bit later.( Todd is Art in Motion and has really cool boards).. He actually commented on Mo,said it had a nice shape.. I told him how Mere Made Surfboards came to be.. And he agreed looks like V is a natural!!!

The line up was already getting crowded... I know there were peeps out who would come in at 8 am before they start charging at the meters... But there were a lot of people headed out to surf as well... So hubs decided we should go and get a place in the line up... So we did ..

Today I wore my shorty... After the annoying rash guard incident of yesterday.
The waves were 1-2 when we went out with an occ 3 and still not much shape... I paddled for a few but ... These guys out there were a tad bit of wave hogs and would not let me catch anything... They are men and have way more paddle power than I and I really felt like this one guy was paddle battling me ...every time I went for a wave so did he ...And of course he got it..I went and almost got one but as soon as it was gonna catch, I was on top looking over the falls I felt and heard rumbling under my board ..that wave was ready to just crash... So I backed off right before it dumped and closed out.. That was totally gonna be a wipe out..
I think hubs was having issues with the guys And moved down a bit, he called me to come over.. I was standing my ground with Mr. Wave hog!!! I wanted him to know he was not gonna chase me away!!! Really lets Bully a gal who is not gonna catch much any way... There will be plenty for all.. Not like we had to wait long for a set..
But... I was not catching anything... So I went inside to try and catch a few ..caught one in.

I stood out and watched where hubs was surfing... He caught a wave...they now were getting shape and were waist to chest high... With a few (i say this generously) over head... He kept waving at me to come out... Geesh he looked like a mad man waving his arms like I cant see him.. I Did the hold on gesture give me a minute..and no not with my middle finger!(don't think I don't know my surf boys kk and dd were thinking that) ;-)
I was watching and deciding where to paddle ... Waves were getting bigger but better...

I waited for a break, then paddled out
Sue was out there catching everything.. She amazes me.. She is a retired school teacher and I heard she comes down from up North to surf occasionally!! She is always there when I am just about..I don't always surf Blackies ... But it's where hubs likes to surf.. So I think it's funny when I'm at Blackies Sue is :-)

Any way we perched up next to a lady we surf with from time to time ,
today I got her name Kim... She was nice and another Asian gal was out... She was paddling for a wave I was encouraging her .. She kept looking back and I said don't look back just paddle you got this paddle paddle paddle .. She caught the wave I hooted and hollered she came back smiling, I said .., told you you had it! She said she loved the encouragement and cheering :-). I said yeah I'm better at calling other waves than catching my own! But she caught every wave she went for.. Not like she needed the encouragement.

I did catch one it was fun!
Hubs caught one with Kim .. She went left he went right.. Actually looks like he had been surfing for longer than he has... Hmph!! I have to admit he is out surfing me.. But I'm sure if he tried Mo it would be a different story.. I mean c'mon ... Any one can catch waves on a 9'6... Right???

Well as you can tell the vibe was much better.. We were having fun.. The ocean was so clear.. There were a few dolphins swam by way outside.. I saw a school of big a$$ fish walking back out.. Looked like one massive shadow and spooked me for a bit..Hubs said they were Corbina... And I spotted 3 dinner plate size sting rays and one crab! Sometimes I think it's better when you don't see what's under you.. LOL...
Well we were out a little over 2 hours... I just did not have paddle power left. Final score hubs 3 me 2!

We went,had some bloody Mary's at our watering hole.. Then stopped at crab cooker to get some smoked albacore for lunch... Headed home made lunch then took a nap:-)

Below are just a few pix from Tuesday and Wednesday... Too busy surfing to get any pix of surfing ;-)

Really I have to find a job?? This is much more fun!!!!!