Friday, January 13, 2012
Well it started out as a trek with a few of my fav peeps to Churches! The idea was a few of us piled in a Motor home. While others we would meet down South.. So the Trek begins..
We even got on base and found a few of our friends in the water. As we stood there watching.. I was getting a bit nausea in the belly.. I saw beautiful waves. Some waist, some chest..but nothing smaller.. THEN there were the head and overhead waves. I was in my mind going.. please say we are not staying...please say we are not saying.. OF course I don't want to be the one to say it out loud. Since I didn't drive. BUT after seeing our friend out there taking a head high wave. We looked to the South at San O and saw nice fun waves. The decision was made to head south.. THANK YOU JESUS! See I went to Church and my prayers were answered. =)
So we head over to San O. It is high tide. Where we parked there was no Beach just water. Park and put your board in the water how convenient!
The waves looked to me about 2-4 easy rollers. Most were breaking way outside so the paddle was a bit of a bitch.
We were out for about 1 1/2 to 2 hours. The waves were big and rolly and very very soft and hard to catch.. do to the high tide. I paddled so much for nothing and with that long paddle out. My arms and paddle stamina were failing fast.
I did catch a few fun lefts and a real nice long right. The good thing is since you had to get way out there, that when you got a ride it was long and fun.
I also was working on trying to catch shoulders.. I think I caught one. I hear the wave break as I popped up but saw I was gliding to the left on a nice clean glassy pallet.. so I was on the shoulder. YAY ME! Took that baby all the way to shore. Even though I had to paddle way out again. It is hard to jump off a fun ride. I never want it to end.
However with the good comes some bad. One wave which was one of the bigger ones I paddled for lifted me up and I started my pop up and then it was over. I got tossed like a salad. I was a bit worried. I was spinning around for quite some time.. then when I was able to start swimming I could not figure out where I was. I felt I may not be able to hold my breath much longer. So I opened my eyes to figure which way was up and I saw light and headed that way. Reached the top and took the biggest breath of my life. I wear contacts.. so I usually do not open my eyes under water. BUT I had to this time .. I felt like I was running out of time. Yikes.
As soon as I caught my breath. I looked behind me and a swell was headed my way I was at the perfect place. So I jumped on my board and paddled and that is when I caught one of my fun little lefts. =)
Then while I was paddling back out at one point. A big wall of white wash was heading at me. SO I did my usual push up on my board and let the water go between me and the board. BUT did it... NO.. it pushed my a$$ right off my board. Then 2 seconds later my board was flying at me so I put up my arm and took a nice fin to the arm.. Well it could have been my head or face. So I am lucky I put my arm.. Up...Just Mother Oceans way of letting you know who is in charge, and when you are out there.. You are HER Bitch and don't you forget it!! I headed to shore... To see if my wet suit tore... or if I was bleeding. NOPE :-).. Just knew it was gonna be a nasty bruise. I can feel it already. So I went back out to play for a bit more. But started to get tired.. lots of paddling.. paddling to get so far out...and paddling for the never breaking wave. So I needed a break.
Surfboards also make good snack tables.
We all got out and had some snacks and other refreshments and chatted. Relaxed a bit. Then it was time for round 2!
I never took my wetsuit off. So I just grabbed my board and went. The sun in the later afternoon was a bit blinding. The tide dropped, so the shape was a bit better. The rocks were more exposed, so now we had to deal with them. The Seaweed.. uggh, seemed like every time I got off my board I landed right in a pile of seaweed.
But a caught 2 more nice rides. When I was trying to paddle for a wave and realized I had no more umph..and my stamina was null and void. I knew I was done.
I was not tired and really wish I could stay out longer like 2 of my other friends..but I didn't feel like too much of a wuss..my partner in crime Tracy came in right before me! I mean we had a double session and a LOT of paddling. Maybe a total of 3 to 3 1/2 hours of surfing..
So I left my house at 7 AM.. did the mom carpool routine... with surfboard in tow. Funny seeing the kids pile in and have to work around a 9-0 board...then headed right out to HB area and hitch a ride with some friends to head down south and I got home at 7:15 PM.. Now that is what I call a day of Surfing!....and I can't wait for the next time!
Some of these really lovely pictures are from my friend Tracy..Such a lovely way to end the post!