Sunday, November 27, 2011


I did it I woke up at 5 AM drove 37 miles to my nearest break, my home break. It was pitch black when I left my house as seen in top pix. I was in the water before 6:30 and out by 7:30 came home and got ready for work and made it to work by 10 AM.. yep so this maybe a new Sunday thing. I don't know how many people would attempt a 74 mile round trip for an hour of surf..Call me crazy! I needed it.

Surf was fun 2 footers pretty consistent. But I don't know what was wrong with me. I sucked. I only caught close outs...I caught one decent lil ride inside..but I just could not focus or something...
I did not get much sleep, for a few reasons. 1) my allergies or I am getting sick again were going crazy last night, I kept getting up to blow my nose, actually my nose is so sore that when the salt water touched it, it burned. 2) my daughter had her friend spent the night and those teenage girls were noisy and my Chihuahua kept growling and barking all night.. and my husband was snoring. I am surprised I even woke up at 5..well I did press snooze 2 times, so more like 5:15.
I also think I was so worried about time and making it to work and wanting to surf,I was too anxious to catch waves. I just didn't relax and focus. I looked like I didn't know what I was doing out there today.
I also realize I talk to myself, about the waves coming at me,or when I mess up, I am sure people think I am a schizophrenic crack head. LOL..but I promise you I am not. I just analyze too much and talk out loud about it, my way of walking through it in my mind. I will need to work on that.

I like getting to the beach early, I was one of the first 10 peeps in the water and it is cool to see the sun come up. My friend Artie the trooper she is joined me. I thought the water was gonna be cold..but surprisingly it was fine. Booties are a lifesaver. I don't know how I surfed in the winter months prior to this??

By the time I was getting out 7:30sh.. the break was getting crowded. I was going after a wave, it was a left just what I wanted. I was so stoked I thought I had it, then I looked to my right and everyone and their brother were on that wave. They were right on top of each other, I of course backed off. I caught my last ride in a left from the inside. It was time to go.
BUT I am happy I went. I like watching the sun come up. I like seeing the dolphins first thing in the morning. Even though I sucked. I think I may make this a Sunday habit. Work or no work. Early morning surf sesh to start the day.