Saturday, March 31, 2012
THIS PICTURE WAS TAKEN (by the hubs) LAST WEEK AT BLACKIES!!..I DID NOT GET ANY PIX YESTERDAY!
SO I was not so sure about surfing yesterday. I was trying to find someone to surf with but no one responded except Irma.. she would be able to surf after NOON. It was SUPPOSE to be a nice sunny day at the beach..I heard good surf 3-4'. (Well none of that was true.) I thought as I was dilly dallying at home deciding if I wanted waste the gas to drive out, thought the sun would shine and motivate me to do SOMETHING.. I really am in a bit of an odd place A few things going on. I was not even sure if I felt like surfing. But probably the best thing I could do...
ANY way decided to just throw the board in the Tahoe.. did a post on FB said "Headed to Beach with surfboard in tow, if anyone wants to join me, let me know.".. DIDN'T even realize it rhymed till much later that day. HA!
I get to the beach.. Blackies, I see Eric, and Saw My hubs friend Jesse, and Saw Donna.. she just got out and said she had fun. Where Eric headed out to surf just seem too big and crowded for me. I heard another Surfer from my club Theresa was out there... closer to the pier where it looked not as bad. Still looked big..But I suited up and went out . I fought my hardest to get outside. TOOK me a while . I finally did and went towards the only long blond hair girl..thinking it was Theresa and it was not.. I have NO idea where she was???.. She must've got out before I got there. I went after one wave, a guy cheered me on..I thought I had it..but NOPE.. He thought I had it too. It was BIG as I was lifting up I looked down at him paddling back in to my right, I was aiming left and it just dumped in front of me. I am glad I did not get it. Then right after, I got a fun ride and thought I jumped off in time to not get caught inside. I just didn't want that battle again.. BUT I guess I jumped off right at the impact zone. UGGGH.. OH well. I tried to get outside again. THOUGHT screw this. I don't even know where my friend is. The sea seemed a bit much and I didn't want to be out there without knowing someone. Especially in these conditions. SO I waited for Irma. I stayed in my wet wetsuit freezing and waiting over an hour for her. Then her smiley face popped up next to Eric and I at the wall. I was happy to see her.
I went and put more money in my meter, Irma suited up. We headed to South Side of pier where at that time only one younger hotty surfer was surfing close to the pier. (Yes I checked him out, he looked like he belonged in a surf magazine, blond wavy shoulder length hair, zinc oxide on this nose, catching bigger outside waves.)
It again was hard to get outside. I did it..as I was going over the waves to get outside I look to my right and these beautiful curling waves I can see through them as I paddle as hard as I could over the not yet breaking shoulder. THEY were so Beautiful BUT BIG. I was a bit mesmerized by them, they were curling like a ribbon and closing out towards ME..I thought to myself NO time to enjoy this paddle hard to get over it. I swear I did that a few times and thought Holey Shit I made it.!! Hotty was right next to me, I paddle a little to the right to give him his space and the bigger sets.. LOL.. I looked back for Irma and she was caught inside. I NEVER make it out before her... She got slammed in her left ear and said it was not fun. BUT she also lingered a bit and caught a few inside. I was sore and I was worked and worked from earlier and my left arm was a bit sore. (I have been also strength training to help build up my paddle muscles... and think I over did it a bit with my left arm.) BUT obviously It's working I got my butt outside.
I decided to sit out there rest and enjoy it. I was watching the guy next to me catch these big waves some were over his head,..I was far enough away where they didn't affect me. BUT I had to paddle very far outside the outside waves were at least 5+ feet I am not kidding. I was whoa I cannot take these. I also was wondering what the Hell am I doing out here?? LOL.
I don't remember what order the rest happen..BUT it was all pretty neat. I did get 1 other real ride. ALL I remember is it was FAST!.. I also caught some waves where I could not stand up on. Because of how fase they were and closed out on me. I also caught and stood up on ONE wave that chewed me up and SPIT me out. I went flying, seriously flying!!! I popped my head out of the water first thing I see was Irma's EYES wide as saucers and I said I got Pitched. SHE said "YEAH you did.. That was a BIG wave But you looked good doing it".. Like a professional wipe out... LOL..
Irma joined me outside. Then, She caught a big one as I caught a wave that went so fast by the time I tried to stand up it was over. She asked If I saw her.. I said no, we were both headed back outside. She said that was a big wave it caught her..but she was shocked by it all... and was grateful to stay on it. I REALLY wish I saw it..but I was having my own issues. LOL.. Then she got back outside. I was again caught inside. I had to ditch my board behind me and dive into the huge crashing wave. I had to do that 3 times in a row. I had no other choice ..they just came so big and fast.
I got back outside and then it was like the ocean stopped. Irma and I just sat there.
These 3 other guys joined us along with the Hotty who was still there... They sat a bit more inside. They seem like they were having fun. Then I heard one guy yell and I looked and between us and the shore.. but very close to us all.. Was a HUGE fin submerging under the water....I looked at Irma and said that was a dolphin right. SHE said yes A BIG one!! Then 2 other big ones were aiming right at me. I was Irma they are coming right at me. I was hoping they would not knock me off my board. I saw them go under.. LET me tell you it is quite a sight watching 2 BIG GREY SILHOUETTES go under your board... Even though I knew they were Dolphins I was still very intimidated. AND not just any Dolphins. BIG ones.. not like the cute little ones lighter grey almost silver ones that come up to you..These look like they are the Dolphins in Charge. BIG Dark Grey almost black ones.. It really was a bit eerie.. BUT YET SUPER COOL. The guys asked where are they.. I said they just went under me they will be popping up right about there.. and as I pointed they appeared. One guy said he had never been so close to Dolphins before. I said yeah, try having them under your board!! ??? They all swam a little further out side of us and looked like they were eating. They swam right there in a sort of circle. It was that moment I realize how deep the water really was.
After that I went inside to try and catch something.. BUT the ocean got real funky all of a sudden. Like Posieden pounded his trident on the ocean floor and the seas became stormy. It looked like meringuey white tops in every direction. NO real waves to catch and it was just odd.
I was tired and decided to go in. Irma was coming in..then she kind of walked waist deep in the water toward the pier. Looking at the ocean. I could not figure out what she was looking at. She later told me she was looking for a channel to get back out. I made a comment about how weird the ocean got all of a sudden It was so strange. I said I wonder if we had an earthquake or something. It was dead for a few..then got all stormy white cappy and very funky. She said it was strange too.
I went to take a picture of the South Side of the pier.BUT my blackberry died right then. IT figures....So NO pictures this time =(
I know I got out there at 10'sh and between the 2 surf sessions and the waiting I was done at what 1:30'sh?? I left after I got a bite to eat, at 2:20.. STILL NO SUN. I was driving home and the more inland I got the more the sun shone. FUNNY weather person said. It would burn off at the beach and linger inland .. WRONG..
Any way it was a strange day surfing. I was so tired and sore when I got home.. I still am.