Well I got into the water on Wed. I was debating on Blackies or Bolsa. It was not the biggest day of surf, that was for sure. A friend responded she would surf with me if we hit Bolsa....She has a state pass so that covers parking.. I was in.
NOW Bolsa and I have a relationship..it is a LOVE/HATE one.. the break is really starting to grow on me now. BUT the waves no matter how small or big, just have this drop to them. I always have to re learn,so to say, how to surf Bolsa. My first couple of times ALL I did was wipe out. It got very frustrating..plus I am always worried about those pesky sting rays. But since the water is colder I like to think they went into hibernation. One less thing to worry about. PLUS Bolsa just seems so like being in the wilderness. No pier, no houses.. just beach. WHICH is really nice. I should really be embracing that. BUT I always get an insecure feeling out there. I don't know why. It is the vast openness, I guess you could say.
So anyway.. the last couple times I surfed there, I did pretty well. I always think I wont, but I do. OF course I had my first wave that day be a wipe out. My second wave I was all shaky, like I never been on a board before. I do that from time to time. Sometimes I surf like I know what I am doing, and sometimes you would swear it was my first time standing. I think I just psych myself out. BUT after I relax..and get into the groove. I do ok.
I would say the biggest wave was a random waist high. Calf and knee size were the norm. It had a good vibe and a few surfers,(more really than I thought would be there on a Wed. and a small day.)But not as crowded as other places. I met some new guys, and they were encouraging, that is always nice.
Well after my first wipe out. I did good, caught a few lefts and a few waves that closed out and really just rode the white wash to shore. Still a ride and I stayed on so I am counting it.
BUT then this wave came and my friend says right it is a right, as I am paddling. NOW I try to go left on everything. I just go left..NO it does not always work out...but I do it naturally. BUT this time I get the wave.. I start to go left... turn my board and I go right, ON PURPOSE.. I say to myself come on go right.. you can!. I don't know if you recall some posts where I try to go right and it is backside for me.. so I usually go right all right...RIGHT OFF THE BACK OF MY BOARD.. I call it the nestea plunge of surfing. HA HA! but this time I did it .. I went right I controlled it.. TOOK it all the way to shore. AND I yelled I am going right.. OMG I am doing this!! WOOT WOOT!!...while I was riding it in. SEEM like a long ride in. I had so much control. I was soooo Happy. 2 of the guys I met that day applauded. One was on the beach on a chair and the other was getting out, I pulled right up to him. THEIR encouragement made me so happy, I explained it was my first real right. MY friend outside gave me shakas and clapped too..and everyone in ear shot was looking at me. I guess everyone about a mile north or south heard me.. HAHA.. I was Happy. I get SUPER STOKED when I accomplish something. THIS year has been the best for me surfing wise. I have accomplished a lot of firsts. Man that just keeps the fire under me to do more. I always think it is a fluke when I do something..but I eventually do it again.
Well after that I was outside just sitting, talking with my friend, because really any sort of wave was few and far between. THEN the Dolphins show up. Right there. They were so close and beautiful. I swear as they were all doing there dance going south, ONE held his head up turned and looked at me. Right in the eye. It was weird but he or she starred at me. I just said hi sweetheart you are beautiful. I guess he/she decided I was not a threat and carried on. They were right at us. THAT NEVER GETS OLD, and it is so magical and one of the best part about being a surfer, is the land dwellers will never experience that amazing magical feeling.
SO NOW I feel like an accomplished surfer.. I can go left and right! The dolphins gave me some sort of approval..;-) So yep. I am getting there..not ready for any competition or anything like that..but I feel I am becoming more and more of a surfer and am moving up from kook hood! SLOWLY BUT SURELY!
