Monday, October 3, 2011

Taking it easy..slowly get back into yeah, right...

So Friday I take a trip to Blackies just to see the surf. I am saving my energy for Sat. and Sun. because I am getting over being sick.. Last time I surfed I got sick that night, and that was 10 days from Friday..and been sick since..So this top pix is of Blackies last Friday.. wish that was me out there..seriously looked like fun. Knee to waist high, fun little nuggets.. just my kind of ride.

But I had to save my umph for a 5K Beach Palooza in the LBC.. a little race we signed up as a surf club to do. So the following pix are just a few from that day. SO MUCH FUN! But it was hard and I was still hacking from being sick..BUT I did it.

Some how we ended up in the front of the line at the start of the race.. I am wearing a pink lei..Yes that is me with my mouth wide open in the back to the left..

I ran my heart out..but could not run the whole thing.. RUNNING in the sand is hard..and lets not forget to mention the obstacles we had to go through even fire jumping.

Just some of the girls from Wahine Kai who raced that day. We just sooo rock.

I finished and I am soo happy. My standing for my age group 40-44 was I came in 11 for my age >49:57.45 14:16/M and I am happy with it for being my first race ever.. being sick and NEVER ran in the sand before.

So yeah I wake up Sunday and I am sore and tired and wondering if I will ever move again.. I told the husband I am staying home and not surfing today, I just can't I have no more energy..but guess who got up and decided to go surf San O?
ME!! I text my husband and said decided to go to San O after all..His reply was "you are gonna end up in the hospital if you don't rest and you are still sick".. yeah I didn't listen. We had our Surf club end of summer party...although some of the Paloozers from the day before didn't make it..I did!

So San O..Waves are 2-3' I never surfed there before. My first time ever.

I can't believe how many people are out there. The paddle out is a bit farther than I am use too. But it was not so hard..My shoulder is still sore and I am exhausted and sore from yesterday and yep still getting over being sick.

So I caught my first couple waves on the inside to get use to this. They were fun and easy.
Later I did get out past the break..(the photographer left before that, so no pix of me riding in from there..and I did good too) I was a bit intimidated by how many people were out there, how far the paddle out seemed, and the waves look like they were so BIG outside. THE waves were so hard to catch, very deceiving.. I paddled my heart out thinking the wave was gonna break and nothing..SO much paddling for nothing. YOU had to work hard for these..but when you did.. and you caught one the ride in was long smooth and fun. I had so many lefts. BUT the paddling really did a number on my shoulder.. IT is very sore today. But all in all I LOVED it..I can't wait to go back to San O again. Um I think my chiropractor is not gonna be very happy with me though..I am still suppose to be "taking it easy".. "NOT pushing it."

So now today I went to work and rested. HA!


  1. San O looked great. You must have felt the Ocean calling you that day! Good thing you went. The pictures are really nice (thank you Photographer!). You're so active... I don't think I could keep up with you ;)

  2. Yeah well me being active keeps me at the Drs. LOL...between my Dr., Chiro, Dermatologist... I have an apt. today for this stupid cough..been sick for 2 weeks..BUT yet I still go go go.. I don't like to be weighed down ;-).. And my shoulder just started feeling better, and my skin issues (from the sun) are gone.. now this.. oh well..You only live once.