Saturday, September 19, 2009

Some Firsts

Well....Friday I accomplished a lot.

So my husband and I set out early so I could take my still nameless new board for a ride or two. I decided lets head to Blackies since I hear there was a bit of a swell and I am still not experienced enough to attempt anything beyond what maybe 2' waves. I was comfortable with is my security blanket.

We get to the parking lot of the pier and it was already pretty packed. There were lots of surfers out there. Not to mention OMG those were big waves for me.. looked over 3'.. I was very nervous and was convinced I was backing out of this today.

I always text my friend and of course mentor Natalie, and tell her when I surf and where. So I tell her. Then my next text was. "aaaaah....waves at blackies look a bit scary...=(...I think Ill pass....and a lot of people..bummer". Well 6 minutes later I get a call from Natalie, She just surfed HB..and said she would come out and surf with me at Blackies, I tell her did you read what I just text you.. the waves are to big for me, I am not comfortable going out. She said no, the waves are not to big,, I will go out with you, be there in a minute. I get a call she is in the parking lot, and says yeah the waves are a bit big for you...I was all.. I told you..She responds with I am taking you out any first thought is great she is going to get me killed. Either by taking on too big of a wave, or pissing off one of the surfers who were out there, or just getting run over by someone...haha

Well we get out..and it was not so bad.. tide was high..and, the waves were intimidating...but not as bad as I she knew a few people out there, who were very nice.

Natalie takes me out past the break...a first for me.. did I mention... I really just play and have been learning in the white wash? Well that all changed yesterday. My first, first.

I was very worried about all the people out there...and I was worried about catching and getting on a bigger wave than I was use to. So of course I am already nervous, but I am also in deeper water.. I even saw bigger fish, and was praying nothing bigger was there looking for those fish. haha.

Well I have to tell you I caught four waves. Oh and the face of the wave, another first. You have a lot more time to figure out what you are going to do. One I kneed in. One I tried to stand and fell. One I actually worked my way to crouching, and stood, of course my footing was wrong, more of a lounge, but I rode that wave all the way in. I was very happy with that.. I think Natalie was too. I mean it was not graceful by any means...and the only way I can describe it was like a real old lady trying to get up. So yet again another first. I rode a wave in and I stood 3/4 of the ways through!

I also learned how to turtle, I have to tell you is a bit scary and the first time I attempted it I twirled around with the crashing wave and swallowed a lot of water. I also was not sure when I was trying to surface.. if I was swimming up or down. But I made it. I went to the beach to take a break, and I really felt like I was going to puke.. combination of getting tired, worn, and the swallowing of water.. I really don't know why I don't just shut my mouth when I go under. HAHA..

Well I went out again with Natalie who came to see if I was ok.. she said I had at least 2 more waves in me, and she would show me how to turtle properly. It is not easy to do with a foam board either.. I also hit myself in the head.. and was happy it is only a foam board.

Now my other first is I was out there for over 2 hours.. I never have been out that long before.. I never have paddled so much before either.. so I was getting exhausted. My arms were feeling like they were barely attached to me and were becoming like string.. honestly..they along with my shoulders and neck are still very sore.

So after my turtleling lesson.. I paddled out pass the break with Natalie.. I was so tired I am sure I looked like a wounded, sad excuse of a surfer.. and if there was something bigger like a shark chasing those fish.. I am sure i would've been the surfer "easy pickings" it would go for.

Well I make it out there with Natalie, she said OK one more wave and were done. I told her I felt so sick and I was going to throw up and I was exhausted.. could I just go in. We had to wait for a wave.. which took what seem like forever to finally one comes in and the last wave, Natalie pushed me into.. I paddled with my arms that were so ready to fall off, I caught the wave and seriously laid on my board and rode it in. I was too delirious to even think about popping up. I got beached and was soooo happy it was over.

Now don't get me wrong.. I felt like shit at the end of it.. and I did for probably 1/2 of the day.. and I am still sore.....

But...I accomplish the most I ever did, and learned a lot more...and actually rode in a wave and stood. Was my best day ever!

I hope this all makes sense it is way past my bedtime as I write this, I have so much to say..and I am exhausted. I got up early to go to a surf event at HB today. Which I will post about tomorrow.

G nite all and to all a G nite!