Wednesday, June 20, 2012
Ok so in this pix.. i need to work on looking up and not down when I surf.. LOL!! I wish I had a bit more style.. But Hey I am standing up and riding so!!!
Yay I got to hijack my friends computer!!! So I can blog about today and add pix to the blogs that were lacking them =),, go ahead go back and look..You know you want to!
Any way had a very fun surf session today on this international day of surf.
Any way there were like 6 or 7 of us girls out there. Just having a good time in what surfline calls 1-3 poor waves. Yes again with the bumpy close outs. I caught and rode a few of those today.
I have 3 that stood out.(not necessarily in a good way.. ha)
1 wave I caught trying to paddle back out and go between Laura and Cathy who were coming at me. The wave took me and I almost got the back of Cathys board. I was on that bumpy ride and stood up at the end.. ha!.. not bad for an accidental ride.
2 wave I was going after and Laura was paddling in..and I litterally dropped right on top of her, i was trying to go right..in a closing out wave.. and I went right over her and she had to duck under me. I was so worried I was gonna hit her head. I would never want to do that tooo anyone..let alone someone I consider a very GOOD friend...Again. I am sorry Laura.. love ya!(she was ok and thankfully, I didnt hit her)
3 wave... omg.. I caught it and it was like riding a bunking bronco..that wall of white water was bumping me right and left and litterally my board was smacking up and down. I just needed a cowgirl hat and a lasso!! Yelled Yee ha! I finally stood up at the end of that.
I also caught another wave.. where I am gonna do my best to describe this.. It was like floating on the white wall for the longest time.. then inside it actually turned into a wave with a bit of shape, and I went left down the face for a short time. The floating experience was a longer ride.
My friend Laurie said I should have seen my facial expression, my mouth was wide open.. I dont know if it was out of happiness or bewilderment at how I was on that wierd ride.. I really hope my description made sense!
Water was cooler but still clean and I still went bootiless. Sun was just starting to peak through as we were leaving!
Any way what a great morning with great girls!
Chatted up with some of the sweetest guys parked next to me. They were folding their wet suits all nice and neat.. and I told them i just threw mine in a bag and it was all balled up. HA! They also offered me a big bottle of warm water to clean up..but my friend Laurie gave me some.. so I used hers..I love when the vibe is good all the way around. What a great way to end a surf session!
Then said good bye to a few of the girls, others were still in the water.
My friend Laurie and I hit up the secret spot for after surf breakfast.. yummy.. pier bowls is what we both had!
Then I followed her home and took over her laptop! Thanks Laurie.. she rocks she always lets me use her stuff.. remember my birthday staycation.. I took over her house. ;-)! Yep I am lucky to have such great friends!
Well if all goes well this was day 1 of my 6 days of planned surfing extravaganza.. so stay tuned.