Wednesday, June 20, 2012

Happy International Surf Day!!! & First day of Summer



Ok so in this pix.. i need to work on looking up and not down when I surf.. LOL!! I wish I had a bit more style.. But Hey I am standing up and riding so!!!

Yay I got to hijack my friends computer!!! So I can blog about today and add pix to the blogs that were lacking them =),, go ahead go back and look..You know you want to!

Any way had a very fun surf session today on this international day of surf.



Girls from my surf club planned on meeting and surfing at the cliffs (HB)which by the way is now becoming my favorite surf spot. Even though surf conditions are sooo lacking lately. I just always have fun at that spot regardless.

Any way there were like 6 or 7 of us girls out there. Just having a good time in what surfline calls 1-3 poor waves. Yes again with the bumpy close outs. I caught and rode a few of those today.

I have 3 that stood out.(not necessarily in a good way.. ha)

1 wave I caught trying to paddle back out and go between Laura and Cathy who were coming at me. The wave took me and I almost got the back of Cathys board. I was on that bumpy ride and stood up at the end.. ha!.. not bad for an accidental ride.

2 wave I was going after and Laura was paddling in..and I litterally dropped right on top of her, i was trying to go right..in a closing out wave.. and I went right over her and she had to duck under me. I was so worried I was gonna hit her head. I would never want to do that tooo anyone..let alone someone I consider a very GOOD friend...Again. I am sorry Laura.. love ya!(she was ok and thankfully, I didnt hit her)

3 wave... omg.. I caught it and it was like riding a bunking bronco..that wall of white water was bumping me right and left and litterally my board was smacking up and down. I just needed a cowgirl hat and a lasso!! Yelled Yee ha! I finally stood up at the end of that.

I also caught another wave.. where I am gonna do my best to describe this.. It was like floating on the white wall for the longest time.. then inside it actually turned into a wave with a bit of shape, and I went left down the face for a short time. The floating experience was a longer ride.

My friend Laurie said I should have seen my facial expression, my mouth was wide open.. I dont know if it was out of happiness or bewilderment at how I was on that wierd ride.. I really hope my description made sense!

Water was cooler but still clean and I still went bootiless. Sun was just starting to peak through as we were leaving!

Any way what a great morning with great girls!

Chatted up with some of the sweetest guys parked next to me. They were folding their wet suits all nice and neat.. and I told them i just threw mine in a bag and it was all balled up. HA! They also offered me a big bottle of warm water to clean up..but my friend Laurie gave me some.. so I used hers..I love when the vibe is good all the way around. What a great way to end a surf session!

Then said good bye to a few of the girls, others were still in the water.

My friend Laurie and I hit up the secret spot for after surf breakfast.. yummy.. pier bowls is what we both had!



Then I followed her home and took over her laptop! Thanks Laurie.. she rocks she always lets me use her stuff.. remember my birthday staycation.. I took over her house. ;-)! Yep I am lucky to have such great friends!

Well if all goes well this was day 1 of my 6 days of planned surfing extravaganza.. so stay tuned.