So tis the Season for strange weather. Yeah actually December around Christmas it really is not unusual for a visit from the Santa Anas.. I remember growing up in Orange County..(Santa Ana to be exact. LOL) and having our Christmas lights blown off our house one year.
Any way I surfed last week in the wind..BUT this past Thursday was CRAZY. Started out ok. We ended up at Blackies, because the Cliffs and Bolsa were no Bueno and Newport actually had a bit of motion in the Ocean..
Only thing is my friend Irma and I thought we better get in right then, because when the wind picks up it's gonna get too big. So when we got in it was 2-3.. but more 2.. and the waves were not easy to catch. Lots of paddling for nothing is how I felt.
I caught like 3 rides. I had one of my fun long lefts.. ALWAYS A FAVORITE!.. then the wind started picking up.
It was getting COOOOLD. I was putting my hands in the water to keep them warm. They literally were turning purple. BUT I was only out for maybe less than an hour and I didn't care how cold I was getting I wanted more waves.. more rides.
The wind whizzed by my head. The ocean was creating this bumpiness, the waves started breaking inside.. and the spray was strong. I still sat outside waiting.. and waiting. Then all at once everyone up and down the break started paddling inside. So I did too. Nothing was happening outside. So if you wanted a ride, you had to get it inside.
Then the Ocean just stopped. The wind was crazy. The sand was blowing at us from the shore. BUT NO waves. Then when a little something happen.. EVERYONE PADDLED FOR IT. Seriously. These were not waves worth fighting over. But everyone was desperate and wanted something. I just sat there on my board watching the show. I was pretty much by my self to the left. But I was where NOTHING was happening at all.
Then A nice swell came.. and I was woo hoo I am gonna take this in. I catch it go to stand up and the wind pushes me down. The wave closes out. I am ON my hands and knees on my board laughing as the spray from the offshores is hitting my face like needles and I can barely stay on my board on my hands and knees!!!!! I was all what the ????
I told my friend Irma.. this is Crazy.. she says.. "I KNOW". We sit out there for a bit longer. Then we decide to go in. Tried to wait for one more wave. BUT there was nothing. SO I boogie boarded my board in, with the little bit of white wash there was.
NOW getting out of the ocean and to the Tahoe.. that was a different story. OH my!!! The sand was beating at us, the wind was pushing me back. My board was like a sail. I kept spinning around, trying to figure out the best way to move forward. Then a bigger gust of wind would come and spin me around again. I didn't feel so bad. It was happening to everyone trying to get out.
Wow what a funny sight to be seen.
I finally got to my tahoe and that tub of warm water was the most beautiful feeling in the world as I poured it over me.
But it didn't last long. That wind was strong and cold and was winning. I could not feel my fingers and had the hardest time getting my wetsuit off. When I did and got dressed. WHICH took me forever. I went right to the coffee shop and got me a Large Cup of Coffee...coffee never tasted to good!
Well that is it. I Really wanted to surf Friday. BUT had to do ALL my Christmas shopping and now it is Christmas Eve and am at work.. but not for the whole day. AND I would really LOVE to try and sneak a Christmas morning surf in..BUT I don't think it would be possible. I hate living so far from the Beach.
Any Way! Merry Christmas.. Hope some of you are catching some Christmas Cheer.. in water form!
