Saturday, January 8, 2011
OK, So I have not been able to surf, or be in the water or even near it for that matter.
Last time the cold pacific and I met was the day after Thanksgiving..Sad so sad.. a surfer just should not have to go about 2 months without a taste of the water.
I could have sucked it up the past two days(my days off) and attempted a session.But IDK if it is my age, or the fact my 4/3 is getting worn and a few holes in it?? I just could not bring myself to dip into that cold ocean.
However, that being said.. I think I am really having withdrawals. I am getting so irritated lately. Oh, and just so easily.. OK , I am also finishing up a detox diet and have had no caffeine, sugar, alcohol.. etc..but I think I would be fine, if I could just paddle out past the break and just take one big Breath!
Right now I am just throwing myself into my latest issue of WSSM and trying to read West of Jesus. But it is just not the same.
I have never done crack.. or any "major" drugs for that matter..but If I had to guess... Surfing is like Crack..and I need a fix!