Saturday, August 13, 2011

Part 2 Tim O' Neil's Paddle Out

Nice tribute to a fellow Blackie Surfer! Hope he is catching Big Fish and Waves in Heaven!
Our contribution to the memory of Tim. My husband took an old picture from the fishing boat he works on. I blew it up to an 8x10 for him. My husband has known Tim for years. He use to chat with Tim in the winter at Blackies while I was out surfing. As I was going out, he was coming in.
This is how my husband and his fellow fishing friend Betty wanted to say Goodbye to their friend.
I think it is a nice gesture. I Can't say I have really "MET" Tim. But I surf the same break he did. I have seen him out there..and I believe he has given me a few pointers. while I was in the water. If I remember correctly, I think he is the one who told me how to lay correctly on my board while paddling out. TOLD me to keep my feet on the board. In the beginning I would occasionally use my feet to try and balance and they hung off the side of the board. Glad to say I have not done that since I was told not to.
My husband and few of our friends. A couple more showed up after we left. But obviously I didn't get their pix. There were also a lot of fellow surfing freinds of Tim.. the Fishing Crew didn't know the Surf crew. But They ALL knew Tim and Loved him dearly.

The Following Link is a post Surfline did on Tim... the best thing about all this.. He went out doing what he LOVED.. I hope when my time comes... I could be just as lucky!

REST IN PEACE TIM! Every time I am at Blackies I will think of you!

Part One of 8/13/11 Doc gave the OK for a paddle out!

Well I am making this a 2 parter because there are 2 separate issues today. My first day back in the water since my Doc approved it. AND a Tribute to a surfer name Tim. I want to give Tim his own post, so I will start with my getting back in the water in almost a month of being out of commission.

Wish the circumstances of me being able to get wet again were under happier times.

I wanted to paddle out for a fellow Blackie surfer and good friend of my husband. But we could not stay for the paddle out. We had a friend coming to do the wood floors and I had to be at work by 10 AM. I did my first Dawn Patrol I believe. Left house at 5:15. it hit the water by 6:30. I went out and did my own thing prior and said a prayer for Tim by where the paddle out took place.

It felt great to be back in the water. Conditions were yucky. inconsistent 2' not really all that great and low tide.

I paddled out and it was not a long paddle out and easy. I was grateful for that. Since the shoulder is still not up to par. THE doc said I could paddle out for 30 to 45 minutes. BUT not to push it.

I caught every wave I went after a total of 3. But the rides were short and bumpy. I did good paddling for the waves. First 2 no prob. I felt I really sucked though took me a while to get up. I felt fine paddling for the wave. I think because that is what I was concentrating on. When I went to push up ..that is when I really felt the pain in my right shoulder/back. After the 3rd wave and about 30 minutes. I was almost in tears again. Burning and pulling sensation down my arm. Also sitting out there and looking over my right shoulder hurt my neck too. Those two areas are what hurt the most. It killed me to carry my board out of the water. Thank goodness my hubs was there to carry it to the Tahoe.

Well At least I did that..and got my gills wet.. and MY HUSBAND said "hey you are a lot better than last time I saw you, and you are getting up faster." I said "really and today I felt I totally sucked. I didn't even really ride a wave. I am much better than what you just saw." SO that made me happy! I got a compliment from my hubs who has not seen me surf in quite some time. SO I guess I am progressing quite nicely. today I didn't have any fun lefts... I was a bit bummed about that too!

After I felt all my therapy went down the tubes, I was in the same amount of pain as before. Killed me to pull off my wetsuit. I was so frustrated!! I guess it takes time to heal...ugggghhhh! Came home and took a nice soak in the tub and some Ibuprofen and feeling a tad better now.

OH and the new wetsuit..I went one size up.. just a tad to big..but usable. I guess I am in between sizes ..So I either need to lose weight to fit into one that I cant zip, Or gain weight to fill in my new one just a bit. LOL

AND I also learned, I can get to the beach and back and still make it to work on time. IF I want to drive over 70 miles round trip for a morning surf sesh.. OH this could be a bad trick I just learned.. ;-)