Sunday, October 16, 2011
MY ME DAY!! What a Friday it was!!!!!
A few of the girls getting ready to head out here.
SO I just posted about my Thursday experience...and Now want to post about Friday.
Our club had planned a sunset SUP and then Happy Hour for this day. SO I planned to make the day out of it, I had the day off woot woot, and made it a ME DAY!....
..AND I had the BEST ME DAY!
My husbands boat did not go out in the morning, He text ed me to see where I would be surfing, so he got to the break before me & came to watch. I am so glad he did. HE FINALLY saw me catch some waves..not just white wash.. so he was impressed..and a bit proud of me. =)...
So the idiot from the day before did not discourage me. I came back to Blackies the next day at the same time. Well maybe a little bit earlier but not by much. Surf was not as big, but I say it was smoother than the day before. It was mostly knee to waist high, with an occasional chest to head high random wave or two.(I am using body parts to describe the waves, it is easier.., because, sometimes what I think is a 4' wave, is really a 3' or less..I have no sense of measurement when it comes to waves haha)
THE vibe in the water was so much different than the day before. A lot nicer group of people were out there and we had a blast. Yes it was still crowded..always is! "Note to self..if I surf alone.. surf next to female paddle boarder named Mona, She is out there all the time and everyone seems to know her and THEY all are nice." She calls waves for us and tells us to get ready and she is just a positive ray of sunshine out there..and just because she is on a paddle board, she does not dominate the surf. I liked her! My friend Artie met me there, I was so Happy she came! I don't get to surf with her as much and I love surfing with her. Then our friend Kori showed up later too. BUT even if they were not there. Again a much nicer group. The vibe was so positive..you just didn't want to get out of the water. Speaking of h2o..water temp seemed a little cooler, but I again wore my shorty, air temp for sure was, a few degrees cooler, BUT the sun was still shining.
My first wave I pearl... oh well. Whatever. This time I stayed outside the whole time, (until the waves were only breaking inside, then I moved there.) My second wave I pop up and slip right off. OOPS, I need some more wax, I run my hand across the board and it was so slippery. I forgot to check before I went out. I was just too excited and anxious to go out and surf. HA! So I came in. My husband asked if I was all right? He thought the board hit my head. I said no, I slid right of my board during pop up and I totally need to wax this.. so he watch my board as I ran to the Tahoe and got a bit of wax. DID the deed and ran back out to surf.
Went after another wave and weeeeee left all the way home. I was so happy.. it was a small wave, but it was a wave...and it was fun.
THEN I caught a few more... BUT then.. I went after a rather big wave, I don't know how big it was, BUT I usually don't go after these, Everyone else paddled towards it, no one went after it. Looked like it was gonna be big, coming in from the outside. WAY outside, and I decided I am gonna go for it. Words of advice from my 19 year old surf buddy I work with, went through my head. DON'T BE AFRAID OF BIGGER WAVES! Go for it! IT was at least 4' maybe bigger??? I catch it, and think for a brief moment I am gonna wipe out. I pop up, as I am rising up..and I STAY UP!.. it lifts me, it drops me and I rode that all the way to the shore. My heart was thumping I was so excited. I have to say I think that was the best REAL wave of my life. However I expected everyone to be as excited as me..but I guess I just looked like a surfer. I scan the shore for my husband I see his red shirt, so I know he saw it. I paddle back out to Artie, but she kind of missed it. She knew I caught a wave, but didn't see how big it was. OK from that point on I was invincible. I didn't catch anything else like that the rest of the day. But I did get a few more fun rides.
I was excited to see Kori joined us too.. She paddled up to us..but I was almost ready to get out. Her first wave was a long right.. She said she needed that.It was funny I saw her go for the wave and didn't know she caught it then I saw her riding all the way to the shore what seemed like forever. I had to go in.. I surfed for 2 hours. I would have stayed even longer, I was on a surfing high..but when your paddling for a wave and you just don't have that umph anymore and your arms feel like rubber, It is time to go in. My husband ended up leaving while I was out there... BUT sent me a text message saying he saw me and good job. =) YOU would think my day could not get better. And of course that wave was the highlight of my day. I wish I could see what I looked like from shore. It may not be as great as it is in my mind. HA! But I don't care.
So for lunch I hang out down the Peninsula at our fav bar. Just to hang with Holly, the bartender, I only had one Bloody Mary, because we still have SUP at 4:30 and Happy Hour with my girls. BUT I know a lot of peeps at this bar and it is good just to see them and give everyone a hug. These are some good people and I love to see them from time to time. They are not the ones who stay and close down the bar, these are the peeps who hang for social time. James bought me some chili cheese fries for lunch( THANK YOU JAMES..they were yummy) and Holly kept me well hydrated with water that was never empty. As we were sitting chatting, the weather just started changing, got cold, breezy, and the fog rolled in. I thought Paddle boarding may be out of the question, and I didn't bring anything very warm. Sent a text out and...it was still on.
We paddle-boarded in Huntington Harbor a good group of I think 15? Including Artie and Kori from earlier.. A whole gang of Wahine Kai taking over the harbor on paddle boards. It was fun and we did that for an hour. It was not as windy, and in the harbor it was more like a mist than fog. IT was actually kind of cool to paddle board through it.
Afterwards we all headed to Captain Jacks! We took up almost the whole lounge area, I had 2 coronas and a very tasty seafood Quesadilla. We all chatted and caught up. A few girls who did not paddle board joined us for girl time. A good time was had by all. I love these girls.. not all showed up and they were very well missed too. It was now almost 9 PM.. my day started I left my house at 6:45 AM. So needless to say I was pooped and it was time for me to head home....Great time all day with Great People...
...NOW THAT IS WHAT I CALL A ME DAY!!!!
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Hey Big Wave Rider of the OC! Congrats on your fantastic day. It sounds like a big blast that you shared with family (husband) and friends. It can't get better than that.
ReplyDeleteLoved your post all the way through! I wish I could just transport myself over there and surf with you girls for a week or two! Now that would be awesome. You always sound like you are having a great time no matter what! I love your descriptions on each wave you catch. It reminds me of just how much I am thinking about when I am trying to stand up to catch a wave. What I found interesting about what the 19 year old surfer told you about taking the bigger waves is incredible. I have talked myself out of bigger waves simply for the fact that I don't feel like a can make any use of a perfectly "seemingly" giant wave due to my lack of experience, but heeding the advice could prove fruitful as in your case! How cool was that! Riding in the big wave all the way to shore! I loved that part of your story and it put a big ol smile on my face for you. I am finding in my part of the world that I have to be willing to accept all wave conditions and rightly so have expanded our family quiver to include a wide variety of boards. What I really need now is a really cool surfer van to put all of my gear into now or to just live on the beach. :0)
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