Monday, August 26, 2013

Size does NOT always matter

This is seriously what I look like when I pop up!! Lol

Been a while since I surfed..but I surfed today even though surf still sucked ...1' and wind picked up early.

But the sun was out ... Fun people in the water and water temp was cooler than last time ...but not bad... AND the crowds are gone :-)!!!

I took Tallulah out since it was so small today.. And been lectured about using my 8'0 beloved Mo on small days..
HOWEVER.. I caught shit on Tallulah... And I was getting flustered:-(.. I was ginna go in after 20 minutes of failed attempts trying to catch a wave!

My neighbor offered to trade boards so I used his 9'0 foamy and got it dialed in and caught some waves .... But as soon as I was up the ride was over.. Mostly do to my Neanderthal evolution type pop up as seen in the above pix^!!!! I need to work on that and get up faster!

But as Vanessa said today at least im out there and standing up ... Regardless of how I get up!

We all played musical boards today and Daryl  my 67 year old neighbor was the only one able to pop up on  Tallulah! I rode his 9'0 foam board.. Jo Ann's heavier 9'0 foam board... Jo Ann tried Tallulah and did not have  much luck wither .And when Hubs went in I rode his 9'0 Art in Motion board.

I totally was not on my game today... But it takes time to dial into every different board... And I realized today besides popping up slow . ... Since im goofy footed and even when I go right backside I still seem to lean a bit left and my rail was digging in the water and I wipe out ..after I realized what I was doing and put my back into it a bit more .. I had two nice rights down the line.. On hubs board ... Finally!!

After 1 1/2 hours of surfing I did not want to come in.. But wind picked up and on top of being small.. Was not that fun... However I stayed out longer than everyone one except my 67 year old neighbor Daryl!! He rocks.. He surfed when he was younger and just picked it up again this past year... His advice... NEVER STOP SURFING!!! :-)

All in all it was a fun day ... And I needed it! 
This is after surfing!

Friday, August 23, 2013

Nothing to see here!!

No surf... And if there was a bump here and there.. I was not around to play on it..

So no surfing=no posting....

Nothing to see here Folks... Keep moving along!!

Tuesday, August 6, 2013

Bolsa Vs. Blackies

Oops I did it again.. I switch the title from last week...see what I did there? You would if you are paying attention to my blog !!
surfed Blackies ankle slappers with hubs on Monday ...water was still cold and waves are still SMAAAAAAL!
Said ankle slappers at Blackies..
Seriously.. I caught 10 waves with my 8'0 in this!!

But we had not seen each other in a week and he wanted to surf.. so we met at Blackies.(I am still away from home petsitting)Even though it was small it was still fun. I figure I must be getting better..because I out surfed hubs who was riding a 9'0 and I my 8'0... But in his defense he had a swollen elbow...

Any way it was fun about 2 hours and I caught 10 waves!! They were short and sweet but hey a wave is a wave ... Especially when you don't have much to choose from!

Then the next day I surfed Bolsa ... Again small but bigger than Blackies!! And I had fun again... I only caught nice  3 lefts ... Again got a compliment from another surfer who just got out.. Wow.. 2 compliments by two different guys at Bolsa in less than a week... Who would have thought????
Well back to my story close out and one wipe out!! 

Saw the pod of Dolphins again with the babies in the line up...way cool!! And Kim from Blackies joined me for a session at Bolsa.. Her first time there!! 

Also surfed with Irma, and Laura... Well I saw them ... They paddled further down ...
And Greg was there too!

I surfed for a little over an hour... I'm having problems breathing while paddling out... Im also having problems breathing while running ... In wheezing and running outbid breathe sooner than usual... Don't know if I'm getting sick ... Or out of shape..But honestly .. Since that time I has bronchitis/pneumonia ... I have not been the same and sometimes I have episodes... And I did that day...hmmm

Oh well still a fun day...

Done with this petsit by the Beach... So see you in the water next week!!

Sunday, August 4, 2013

Crowded !!

Is it me or are the beaches getting more and more crowded every summer! 

I don't know Bolsa to be this crowded on a regular non holiday weekend?? Maybe I am use to surfing Bolsa earlier ?? But this was before 8:00 am!!!

Maybe I didn't surf Bolsa during summer weekends before???? Nahhh I know I have!! Right???

I don't know!!

Met Laurie and Greg at T 23... Their usual spot!
And of course all the people fishing are right in front of T 23... These are all people fishing!!!!

Again it's just before 8:00 AM here is the view as you look south!... See all the pop ups already???
And to the North!!! Tents as far as the eyes can see??

Hurry up Fall... Just cant get here soon enough!

As for surf ... It was 2-3'...A tad hard to catch first wave was a fun right.. I was yes this is gonna be fun!!
Then I just caught a few close outs ... After doing a lot of paddling and no catching!! They just rolled right under us.. Everyone in the line up was having the same experience.... It seems....high tide was messing things up a bit!
During this time Alain showed up... It's always nice when you see a familiar face!

Greg was catching a bunch!! Show off!! And Laurie caught a few.. One of her rides was a long perfect left... Seem to go on forever!! We all hooted and hollered for her!

I wanted a ride like that!!

And you know what??... A nice big wave ... Big for that day.. Came by and I took it!! 
It was an amazing long left... All the way to shore!! At the end I was yelling that's what I'm talking about!!! A guy who was surfing next to us took a ride right before me and he felt my stoke and added to my comment of "now thats what I'm taking about" with "Nicely Done!!!"
As I paddled back out ..Laurie was clapping for me! And said that was a good one! I said Yeah it was!! That was FUN!!!

She took one in and I was right behind her .. Took a little one that stopped just inside and I could not even get white wash  to shore!! 

Oh well what a fun 2 hours of surfing!!

After that went back to check on my dog im petsitting!! Who was just fine!

Then Greg and Laurie pick me up and  we go to Island grill to get some Hawaiin food and shaved ice!

I decide on a chicken salad and California roll!!
Mmm pineapple and piña colada flavored with double condense milk and ice cream!!!!!... To Die For!!!


Greg and Laurie drop me off and I take care of the doggie again... 

And then meet them again later  to hear a fun local band! 

After we walk out to see if we can catch the sunset .. Just missed it !! But still what a beautiful sight to see!

 And a great way to end a fun day with friends!!


Friday, August 2, 2013

Blackies vs Bolsa

I am yet again pet/house sitting but this time at another friends house for the first time in HB...

So Of course got to get my surf on!

Nothing to crazy to report so far surfed 2 days out of the 9  that i am here..

Surf has pretty much sucked and this Bolsa session nothing like my last Bolsa Session..

Go Figure!

So I surfed Blackiea with my friend Kim ... Who is recovering from a torn tendon in her leg.. She can't really surf or pop up... But she can paddle and catch waves on her belly !! 
Surf was perfect for her ... Even if it was breaking on my ankles! Note pix above! Ha!

Oh and how the water temperature has dropped !! I went in my long 3/2 and no booties... I regret not putting them on!! My feet were like ice cubes! It's August right???

But an hour and a half of fun lil rides so no complaints!

Then Bolsa... Got a late start... Had to walk the dog and I overslept a bit.. 

Was planning on surfing Seal with Lisa and Alain..But I had my hands full with Herbert .. The dog I'm caring for..

But since it was a late start ... Met some Wahine Kai and surf Moms at Bolsa after 9:00.. I am exactly 10 minutes from here!!

Again cold water and waves were knee to chest high..

I can not really say I had fun surfing ...i had a hard time catching waves and there were these guys that kept paddling around me and taking my waves. One in particular was bugging me... Oh wow Big Man can out paddle a girl!! Not to mention you had a bigger board!!! Geesh!! I was north of our group but these guys kept paddling into our group.. I was a tad Annoyed... But happy to be out with my friends... And I finally caught 1 nice left and a few close outs... So the day was not a total loss!

I went for shoulders that were too soft... And I think if I sat inside just a little more.. I would have got a few more... But oh well!

Surfed for an hour and I really was tired .. My arms hurt, my body hurt, and I was out of it!!
I can't say the surf tired me out.. It was a very easy day... And I'm not sure why I felt so drained.. But I did...
Plus I had to get back to release the hound!..(Herbert is crate trained)

But first a stop at "The Secret Spot" for a  pier bowl!! Yum!

So now stay tune for what the next couple days bring!! Right now nap time!