I FINALLY GOT WET.. after over 2 weeks...I got my much Needed Salt Water Bath I have been craving.!!
Thursday.. surf was few and far between... it was foggy and overcast..and the tide was low, and water was cold. Had friends coping out the surf up and down the OC... original idea was to be in water by 9... surf conditions were not cooperating. THEN found out hubs had to fix breaks on Tahoe in the AM so I would not get out till closer to 11...I was getting discouraged and very very antsy!
IT ALL WORKED OUT!. Surf got better, NO wind..fog burned off.. a bit overcast but the sun peaked through. Water still cold, not as bad as I was told.
Met up with Irma, Laura, Susan and Kelly. Jen just got out (trooper!! She surfed in the previous listed conditions) South Side OF HB pier.. only place with sign of life on the OC coast.
Kelly looked at us all like we were crazy to go in that cold water for these conditions, She Opted out. BUT the rest of us did. Jen offered up her gloves for use and I snagged them.
Water ended up not being as cold as originally thought. SO that made me happy.. or it could have been those warm gloves. WHAT a bitch to get on and off. THANK GOD FOR IRMA. I would not have been able to do that myself.
So this is what the 3rd time I have surfed HB pier?? I use to be so intimidated by it. BUT I LOVE HB! Although every-time I surf there the conditions are never the same.
I say 2-3' this time and FAST!.. I have never been on waves so fast before. Shape was better than the last couple times I surfed..but not great. I personally like slower waves I can take my time getting up and just cruise. My "Surfing Grandma Waves" the slow mellow rollers.
SO I had a total of 7 waves. 3 of which I did not get all the way up on. 2 things here.. learning Mo and how and where to pop up and he just catches waves differently. I am still getting use to that. Honestly when the wave finally catches it is a smoother motion when dropping down, like a floating sensation. It always takes me by surprise. The other thing. THE WAVES were so FAST. not enough time to maneuver my pop up and get settled.
I had one lil wipeout... the waved closed on top of me while popping up. BOOOO!
Then I got me 3 nice rides. Still can't believe how fast they were. Like an F-ing Roller coaster. I was seriously surprised I stayed on my board. HA!. THE first ride was an amazing rather nice long ride from outside. I shared a wave with Susan. We both kinda went straight. RODE IT ALL THE WAY TO SHORE. I was just happy I was up on MO.. figuring out where my feet should go.
Susan and I jumped off the same time. We both had the BIGGEST SMILES! Came up to each other and High fived. We were both SO stoked and ready to head out again!!
Had another wave it was a bit wobbly ride in.. then I caught one inside Super fast and short. BUT I was up and rode in. SO YAY ME!
I didn't think we would be out as long as we were. I think we almost made it 2 hours?? I was getting tired and my arms were getting sore. IT Takes a lot more paddling to catch a wave on MO, than Tallulah..BUT It's worth it and I am HAPPY!
I just wanted to get wet. OUR die hard friend Laura was out before us. WHICH is not normal. She caught lots of waves in the short time so she was happy.
Walking back, I was watching the young guys with muscles carrying their potato chip short boards in and thought. WHY do the younger stronger guys get to carry the smaller lighter boards back..and us a tad bit older, not quite as muscular women have to carry such bigger heavier boards..does not seem fair!!! HMM? YOU know what that just means.. Really we are stronger. ;-).. HA!
I was considering going out again Friday.BUT I heard it was drizzly surf sucked until the afternoon..and If I was to surf it would have had to be earlier. I was just SO Happy about Thursday. I decided to save the gas stay home and dwell on my fun previous day of surf.
I think that gave me enough stoke to last me till next time.. I HOPE!!!
