Monday, September 12, 2011

So much to say.. so little space!



Ok I will try to get all this in. LETS start with this!


Yep Made it into a surf magazine.. AND not just any surf magazine..but my FAVORITE.. WSSM..sorry don't mean to brag.. but am very stoked about it. It is actually a Q and A written by my good friend about our club president and I was lucky enough to be in one of the pictures they chose...

Now onto this. LOOK WHO IS HOME! Picture of me and my son Branden who just got back from Afghanistan and came home to Cali for a little R & R.. and guess what I did with him.. ???
YEP took him to the Ocean and got him on a surfboard.

It felt funny teaching my 25 year old Soldier Sgt In the US ARMY how to surf. BUT what I thought was funnier is 30 minutes into it he says he is tired. WHAT? Hey we only just begun... SAYS the 40 something mom/grandma nursing a sore shoulder who has been out of the water for what over a month..plus these were very easy conditions, 1-2 footers, with a very easy paddle out and lots of lull in between sets. I thought you were Army strong ;-)?..He liked it, never really popped up but did get to his knees and was catching his own waves and was out past the break with me. HE tried. One time I just surfed right past him and said what you letting your mom pass you by? BUT it was all in good fun. He had the biggest smile on his face when he caught a wave all the way to shore rode it like a boogie board, He didn't pop up but who cares,He was having a blast. WE did surf for 1 hour and 40 minutes. They blackballed the beach and I figured that was a good time to go in. Especially since my Doc said 30 to 45 minutes at a time. I was in for 1 hour and 40 minutes. BUT a lot of that time I was explaining to my surfing soldier what to do. I LOVED every minute of sharing something I love with my oldest child. It was a great day!



So yep got back into the water. I had 9 day vacation and was only able to surf 1 of those days. I did good too, shoulder held up, so that is what matters. I did take Advil before and after and I was a little sore after, but not nearly as bad as I thought. I am now down to going to the chiropractor every other week. So yep getting better. MY son(the massage therapist) helps me a lot too.

Oh and the reason I was only able to surf 1 day.. was because I was so busy doing stuff with my son and his family, Catalina Island, Disneyland, Shopping, Park. Etc.. I am in need of a vacation from my staycation. But would not change a thing. Was gonna go surf Saturday AM..but we had that freakish storm... then Sunday I was just too tired. So I got my sleep on. Life is good right now. I am one Happy Surfing Grandma!