Tuesday, December 21, 2010

I am neglecting my blog

I know I know I know.. I figure who really reads this anyway???..I kinda just started doing it as a hobby. I wanted to start writing ...but I have become lazy and neglectful.. Well in my defense I have become busy and a bit overwhelmed. I have not surfed as much as I would like..and this weather lately sure is not helping. I have however, still been hanging with my surf gals, and a few guys..watching surfing videos on the Internet, reading surf magazines and books, and still almost every conversation I have.. Surfing somehow becomes a part of it. So Yes.. surfing is a BIG part of my everyday life.. even if, my board and I are not out in the Pacific. I think it is funny and a bit enchanting how something can take over you and everything you do.. It is such a spiritual thing, I have no other words to describe it. Almost every part of my life has improved because of this surfing.. I don't even think labeling it as a "sport" is good enough.. it is more of an experience..I have come to the conclusion.. you either LOVE it or you don't and people who don't surf.. Just don't get it..


A few updates..
I have been working full time now.
Doing online classes for my job to get my Real Estate License.
My soldier is in Afghanistan and doing well.. WISH he was home!
That Grand baby I talked about... is due ANY DAY NOW!!!

So yeah.. that is about it in a nutshell.

If I don't post in a while. I would like to say Merry Christmas, Happy Holidays.. and if you are in California.. try to stay warm and dry.. it is some crazy weather out there right now!

and if it clears up anytime soon..... see ya in the surf!

Wednesday, August 11, 2010


WHERES Kelly Slater?.. kinda like wheres Waldo. This picture is the poor guy getting swarmed by fans after his heat on Saturday Aug. 7th.

So yeah I guess as you can tell from the picture, last Saturday I decided to go to my first US Open of Surfing in good ole HB.. I was able to see Kelly Slater surf, I loved my view from the pier.. NICE..

Literally ran into 2 different people I knew and didn't expect to see at 2 different times.

Then I met up with some friends. Watched the woman's surf, Jr. woman's finals & the women's finals.

Got a VIP pass,(perks of joining a cool surf club and knowing the right people) that was fun.

I forgot to mention I also brought along my 13 year old daughter and 3 of her closest friends.. They loved the experience.

I enjoyed the Expressions Session with my fav Rob Machado, Kelly Slater, and Mick Fanning along with a few other pros.

I also was amazed by the surfers of Life Rolls On... such an amazing organization for some extraordinary surfers.

Wanted to see Weezer..but just got way too crowded.

I don't know if it is because I am getting older..But when it started getting too crowded.. I just was not enjoying myself anymore.

So I left and went home.

BUT.. I did enjoy the experience and am Happy I went! Will I go again next year..maybe?

Congrats to US OPEN CHAMPS Brett Simpson and Carissa Moore!

Monday, July 19, 2010

Surfing Sisters

I just returned from Tennessee.. what was I doing in Tennessee?? There are no waves in Tennessee. I know..but what is there, is my Soldier and his family of course.The visit was well worth the sacrifice of giving up surfing time.

But before I left, I was able to share my love of surfing with one of my favorite peeps, my older sister from Florida. I would say bigger, but she is smaller than me.. HA... any way she had fun. I don't know if she loves it as much as I do and has the urge of she HAS to do this again. But I know she had fun and that is all that matters. Right?

Monday, June 28, 2010

Yes I am still alive


Miss me!?

Sorry, I have not had a lot of Internet access, and have been living my life, work, kids, still kinda dieting and exercising and YES surfing.. I was able to get a wetsuit that finally fits me, (thanks to the generosity of one wonderful female surfer.. she knows who she is and how grateful I am!!!) and have been trying to get out at least once a week.

Again with working and living a bit far from the waves..this is a challenge and an accomplishment when I do.

So what have I been up to.. well lets start with the fact I just found out recently I am going to be a Grandma again for the second time. Baby is due in Early Jan. 2011.... I will keep updates going on that .. a bit bitter sweet situation..but we are counting it as a blessing and so far, all is well!

I went on a surf/camp trip with my surf club in May. We got to meet and surf with Linda Benson.. don't know who she is??? Look her up...and be jealous of me. ( She says with a big grin, but in a sweet mild manner way)

I also have been surfing.. and getting a better at it. I am sooo in love with this sport. I can't believe I never tried this earlier.

I am actually catching waves and yes folks get ready for this.. STANDING!!!!! The picture posted is the first one of me doing so.. I am not ready for the US Open or anything close to it... heck I cant even turn yet, but I feel that since I am just shy of a year of surfing I am doing rather well. July 17th will be my year anniversary.. However I will be on an Airplane on my way home from Tennessee, and won't be able to be in the water. I know there are no waves in Tennessee, but my son and his family are. Seeing my granddaughter turn two and my son before his next deployment(way to soon if you ask me) It's well worth the sacrifice.

I can honestly say the list of places I have surfed is getting bigger..I even attempted HB last Saturday. (more on that later) I really like Seal Beach too, except for the sting rays and it is a bit dirty. Encinitas was fun, but I still feel there is no place like my home break..I like the comfort of my security blanky.. even though it is one of the most crowded.

I have made a few new surf purchases..bought my first set of booties, for when I will eventually be able to surf Doheny. I purchased another Spring suit..and wishing the water will get warmer so I can actually wear it. Next is racks or even soft racks for the Jetta.. Also I am trying to find a bathing suit for a "Woman" surfer. I am having some shoulder neck issues and I think the type of suit I have is not helping. Looking for something comfortable, yet sporty, supportive of the girls, and still cute. I like 2 pieces because I don't like to be confined..but they all seem to be made for the young cute college girls. Not older... yet still cute...grandma at 40 gals. LOL .. I have to say with all these requirements.. it really is not an easy task.

Now back to HB, I always think of HB as a big Locals only break, and short boarder break, home of surfing and crowded.. I would have never gone..but since we did a lil event "Hands Across the Sand" our surf club decided to surf there..and there is safety in numbers. Really none of that mattered, but I have to say I never felt sooo beat up going out before, I felt like I was in a washing machine. I don't know how else to describe it. I felt like when I was paddling out, I was getting hit in every direction. So I just played in the white water and stood up once there..I stepped on something I am trying to still convince myself was a plastic bag in the sand, my friend is convinced it was probably a ray. Did not stay in long.. it was just too much. The day ended up to be great, and had a fun brunch with the girls.

SO as to date, what has surfing done for me? Can't even go into the spirituality of it. I think that is something one has to experience for ones self. I have a great stress release, a new found love, got me into shape, a whole new appreciation for the Ocean and all that resides in it, a great group of friends,(more like a sister hood)...and so much more I just don't know how to put into words. I think of it as so much more than just a sport... It is a passion.

Sorry for the long post. Since it had been a while I had a lot to say. I think I still have more, but will spare you. Till next time....

Wednesday, April 7, 2010

Self Improvement, New and Improved me!

Just wanted to let you all know. I have not been blogging lately.. just way too busy, and have not even been surfing but 2 times since December.

I have been going through a bit of a tough time, and just trying to get through it.

I have, however been working on myself also! I have been dieting and exercising and to date have lost a total of 25 lbs, and built some pretty defining muscles.

I will credit most of it to surfing...Not that I have been... but, I knew I needed to get into better shape to do this thing called surfing.. I really wanted to get a few winter sessions under my belt. However, with the weight loss, I have not been able to fit into my wet suits.. They are way to big.(I know wa wa.. what a problem to have) Since my financial life has seen better days.. a new wetsuit is not in the books any time soon. Mortgage and food for the family seem to be priority.

I am hoping that my board and I can get to know each other sometime soon, in the near future. Also I would love to be able to ride a few waves, this summer, upright on my board! But for now I guess I have to settle for my surfing magazines,books, blogs and staring at my board sitting in my living room!

But Hey... at least I look good and am in the best shape of my life!

Tuesday, January 5, 2010

Happy New Year

Well Nothing New to report for the New Year.. Although like every other person and their New Years Resolution, I am dieting and Exercising. I am and have been losing wieght, A GOOD THING. For the last couple of weeks. I started before the New Year! So I no longer fit into my wetsuits. Since I am on this goal to get to a certain weight.. I am waiting to purchase any kind of wetsuit till then. So I may not be out in the water for a while. Unless I decide to rent a wetsuit.
I really hate coming home and seeing Tallulah in the living room! Just sitting there, wanting to go and play in the Ocean..but soon.