Surf surf and more surf

Wow!!! Something I have not done in a while... Surfed 3 days in a row..
Mon.-Wed.....
.... And you know what if I had gas $$$ and time it would have been till Friday!!

Since I already wrote about Monday...(the best day) I will just update you all on Tuesday and Wednesday...

Tuesday I ended up at the Beach late... Like after 1 pm.. I had to run my son around .... A bit bummed because I did hear Tuesday in the a m was better than Monday morning:-(
Any way when I got there it was a tad breezy... Onshores... And 1 foot walled dumperamas!!!!!
I decided I really needed to build up my paddle muscles and the water was warm plus there were other surfers out there... so I threw on my long sleeve red rash guard and board shorts went and just paddled around for an hour and caught just one shoulder... A short little left.. Felt like as soon as I was on the board I was off...my rash guard kept creeping up while paddling it was very uncomfortable... Note to self don't use red rash-guard again.
... And that was that for Tuesday!

Wednesday was a different story!!!
Hubs tells me the night before we are getting up to surf at 5 am... But if you read the tide.. It is not going to be good till like 9am... He is all about being early and missing traffic...
... But guess who got to sleep in till 6 am?? And yes we had terrible traffic :-(
We got to the beach about 7:30-7:45...
Tide was low and no shape they were a lot of walled close outs... I told hubs...let's wait it is not looking good to me... I think later wil be better.. ( I am so proud I'm finally really reading and understanding surf charts and reports and waves now) it took a while and I still question myself...
When we were driving down I noticed the flag at Hoag hospital was flying in the direction of offshore winds... But at the beach the flag was barely moving .. Bit when it did .. Everytime I looked at it .. Was a different direction.. But mostly the winds were coming from the south..

At this time I went to get a yogurt and noticed a familiar looking face at a van.. On my way back I said hey.. Are you the guys from the blog the Oh Sea? The one kid said yeah. I told him I enjoyed his blog and l love the pictures I introduced myself as the surfing grandma of the OC (ha like i'm anyone!! )Nice kids.. If you never seen the blog it is one I have on the right > here that I follow.. Check them out.. They seem to travel a lot too.. To me the blog is like a surf mag.. Pix are awesome!!

After walking back to the wall one of our surf compadres ,Todd pulled up and asked how it looks ? I said a bit closed out.. He looked and said yep... It's walled but should get better a bit later.( Todd is Art in Motion and has really cool boards).. He actually commented on Mo,said it had a nice shape.. I told him how Mere Made Surfboards came to be.. And he agreed looks like V is a natural!!!

The line up was already getting crowded... I know there were peeps out who would come in at 8 am before they start charging at the meters... But there were a lot of people headed out to surf as well... So hubs decided we should go and get a place in the line up... So we did ..

Today I wore my shorty... After the annoying rash guard incident of yesterday.
The waves were 1-2 when we went out with an occ 3 and still not much shape... I paddled for a few but ... These guys out there were a tad bit of wave hogs and would not let me catch anything... They are men and have way more paddle power than I and I really felt like this one guy was paddle battling me ...every time I went for a wave so did he ...And of course he got it..I went and almost got one but as soon as it was gonna catch, I was on top looking over the falls I felt and heard rumbling under my board ..that wave was ready to just crash... So I backed off right before it dumped and closed out.. That was totally gonna be a wipe out..
I think hubs was having issues with the guys And moved down a bit, he called me to come over.. I was standing my ground with Mr. Wave hog!!! I wanted him to know he was not gonna chase me away!!! Really lets Bully a gal who is not gonna catch much any way... There will be plenty for all.. Not like we had to wait long for a set..
But... I was not catching anything... So I went inside to try and catch a few ..caught one in.

I stood out and watched where hubs was surfing... He caught a wave...they now were getting shape and were waist to chest high... With a few (i say this generously) over head... He kept waving at me to come out... Geesh he looked like a mad man waving his arms like I cant see him.. I Did the hold on gesture give me a minute..and no not with my middle finger!(don't think I don't know my surf boys kk and dd were thinking that) ;-)
I was watching and deciding where to paddle ... Waves were getting bigger but better...

I waited for a break, then paddled out
Sue was out there catching everything.. She amazes me.. She is a retired school teacher and I heard she comes down from up North to surf occasionally!! She is always there when I am just about..I don't always surf Blackies ... But it's where hubs likes to surf.. So I think it's funny when I'm at Blackies Sue is :-)

Any way we perched up next to a lady we surf with from time to time ,
today I got her name Kim... She was nice and another Asian gal was out... She was paddling for a wave I was encouraging her .. She kept looking back and I said don't look back just paddle you got this paddle paddle paddle .. She caught the wave I hooted and hollered she came back smiling, I said .., told you you had it! She said she loved the encouragement and cheering :-). I said yeah I'm better at calling other waves than catching my own! But she caught every wave she went for.. Not like she needed the encouragement.

I did catch one it was fun!
Hubs caught one with Kim .. She went left he went right.. Actually looks like he had been surfing for longer than he has... Hmph!! I have to admit he is out surfing me.. But I'm sure if he tried Mo it would be a different story.. I mean c'mon ... Any one can catch waves on a 9'6... Right???

Well as you can tell the vibe was much better.. We were having fun.. The ocean was so clear.. There were a few dolphins swam by way outside.. I saw a school of big a$$ fish walking back out.. Looked like one massive shadow and spooked me for a bit..Hubs said they were Corbina... And I spotted 3 dinner plate size sting rays and one crab! Sometimes I think it's better when you don't see what's under you.. LOL...
Well we were out a little over 2 hours... I just did not have paddle power left. Final score hubs 3 me 2!

We went,had some bloody Mary's at our watering hole.. Then stopped at crab cooker to get some smoked albacore for lunch... Headed home made lunch then took a nap:-)

Below are just a few pix from Tuesday and Wednesday... Too busy surfing to get any pix of surfing ;-)

Really I have to find a job?? This is much more fun!!!!!

Blackies on a Monday Morning

So I am lil bummed about losing my job.. it really sank in..... I am unemployed!!!!
I am relieved.. but yet still wonder why they let me go?? What was it that made them make this decision? ALL I was told is that the job and I were not a good fit...BUT what made them say that? I have never been let go before... everywhere else I worked my employers really loved me!!! To this day I can get Rave reviews by them....
I know I should not dwell..it happen for a reason.. it is done.. IT is a good thing.. I really was not happy there any way.. I should just move on!

So I reluctantly have.. I filed again for unemployment.. ugh! I also went on 2 interviews last Friday...

BUT today.. I had to clear my mind..so hubs was planning on surfing this morning before work.. and I decided to join him. He drove his truck and I our Tahoe. I beat him to Blackies...

When we first got there it was small..like 1 foot and the surf report did say 1' and poor. BUT the water was warm and I just wanted to get out and cleanse my soul...

I packed my 3/2 and really wished I had my shorty..The sun was out even at 7 am I was already warm..and the water temp was amazing.

We paddle out and the paddle out was easy.. I went far outside.. I just wanted to sit a while and bask in it and meditate for a moment..MY hubs is yelling at me your too far out come in more. I said SHUT UP..I know, I want to be here.. DON'T TELL ME WHAT TO DO!!!.. seriously I have been surfing longer than him..and duh I have a smaller board I know where I need to be!
The guys in the line up got a chuckle out of it.. and made some funny remarks... like whoa don't mess with her! I said HEY I have been with him for 17 years I earn the right to talk to him like that. LOL!

The ocean started picking up and the waves went from 1 footers to 2-3 and so clean and glassy!

I went after my first wave and rode it to shore..a lovely rather long left.. especially for that break! I needed that I MEAN.... I REALLY needed that!!!!

I paddle back out and was so happy..but noticed I really am out of shape with paddling..I need to build back up my paddling muscles.

I took another left and I took one that just broke on me and I rode the white wash in..and I had another left but as I was popping up a guy was on it coming right at me.. But it all worked out I got up and went left, right in front of him.. NO collision..but I think he was not too happy with me.. yikes.. SORRY DUDE!! I really didn't mean it..and honestly I didn't see him till last minute. WELL I caught four lefts in about an hour or so...

Hubs caught 2 nice rides...then his leash broke.. so we went in..

We had breakfast at charlie chili's I had egg white omelette with tomatoes, mushrooms and sausage with a side of fruit. Hubs had a breakfast plate with eggs, bacon, sausage and home fries and wheat toast.

Then after talking a bit with the blackie's crew.. we went our separate ways..him to work and me ...I went to the frog house and bought him a new leash...then..
I trotted off back to home to get some chores done and dreadfully file once again for unemployment!

I don't want to jinx it,..but I may have a good job lead!! The job I interviewed for on Friday..may be the one!! Maybe..but at this point.. I just say whatever happens... happens and what is meant to be is meant to be!!

Again.. I will try to get some more surf time under the belt.. I would like more of today please!!!!

Dory Fleet Fish Market

What is really important!!

Well I lost my job today..
.. They said it was not a good fit! Yep I agree!! I was not very happy there...

So I feel relief! But I soo do not want to do the whole unemployment thing again!

Any way I guess I get some more surf time under my belt .... Just in time for gas prices to skyrocket :-/

Well as seen in this picture... I know what is truly important and what Makes me Happy!! Being A Grandma.... And the simple things in life :-D

Doheny saves me again....

This was my wave of the day...I even rode it in with a cute stance and some style for once..but the only pix was after I was done and jumped of the back of my board.. I think it is a cool pix none the less!

It's been a while since I have been able to surf...write my blog.....exercise... Or do much of anything else.
Between being sick...working a new job, with longer hours than i am use too..also a bit stressed by my job.. It's not what I was told it was gonna be and I am still not a fan of it... But trying to go with the flow and put a positive spin on it... Keyword "trying". Also we have a very close family member who's is extremely ill.. That is a really hard one to speak about right now :-( plus everything is breaking around me ... Just recently my Tahoe... Which the repairs took up what we had in our bank account... (still at mechanics...so i hope its not more!!)Oh well at least it's getting fixed and it could have been worse!

It's all been taking a toll on me.. I was not doing well at all the last couple weeks!!
I am finally feeling better health wise but still have this lingering cough. As a matter if fact paddling out there today made me cough a lot.

So what I have been needing more than ever is to get a surf session under my belt!

I did!!!!I did!!! Doheny saves me again!!

It was not the best surf day... Was so hard to catch lots of paddling for nothing ... Only caught 2 rides..one closed out on me and then reformed inside and that was a fun ride!!! The other was a short ride I caught inside..
I almost had a perfect wave... But an out of place paddle boarder came and swooped it away from me..

He didn't know at DoHo the paddle boarders are not allowed to be where the surfers are...the lifeguard went on the bullhorn "after I was done surfing" telling him he needed to move to the other side... My friend Kathleen also had a lil word with him.. He had no idea why everyone was yelling at him... I kind of felt sorry for him... But still perturbed he took my wave!

Everyone was in the same boat we (our surf club) and my hubs and April's hubs all surfed ...we had like 12+ people out there. At one time it was all of us paddling for the same wave and not a one of us could catch it!! We were a cornucopia of surfers with various skill levels on boards ranging from 6 - 10 feet... And we all had the same kind of day..

But the water was warm!! I wore my shorty!!! The sun was out!! There were some off shores because when the wave broke inside and i was sitting outside i watched the beautiful spray dancing on top of the wave!. But it didn't feel very windy to me...
Of course.... Can never have a bad day when I'm with my surf girls!!!

I look like a neanderthal evolving in this picture...lol

One of our gals my good friend Artie took a board to her face last week at San O and has a few stitches on her lip.. She sat out but came for support and was our photographer... I have no pix yet.. But If and when they get posted I shall add some !

So this day helped me a lot... It helped me clear my mind...focus on the positive and get some much need water time.

Since I have no pix ... I stole this icon from someone a while back... It fits this occasion ;-)

Well I should post something!

It was pointed out to me it's been awhile since I posted! Sorry no pix this time. I just added one I took a while back... It expresses what I'm feeling.

I have only been out one time since the last post.... That was almost 2 weeks ago...Just to paddle out and get that zen feeling... I was still feeling sick... And I still am... But I paddled for a few regardless... Even when I first paddled out... My lungs were burning... That's when I knew I had bronchitis... I caught 2 waves ... 1 wipeout and 1 I rode all the way in! I so did not have the energy to paddle back out... And only after 45min.

Well hubs last 2 surf sessions at Doho really burst his confidence ... He was catching a few waves from the outside at Bolsa.... A first for him!

As a matter of fact he went surfing today with MY friends!.... I am not sure how I feel about this.. I think I created a monster!!! Ha!

In other news working my new job and still sick! & Not a Happy Person... But I'm trying to put on a front...

Went to Doctors last week was diagnosed with bronchitis ... Prescribed a Z PAC ....
Thought Sunday and Monday I was getting better!
Today woke up nauseated and hot like my body was on fire and just worn!
Still went to work thinking I would feel better as the day went on... But I felt worse and kept getting dizzy! I went home from work early... And made another Dr. Apt for tomorrow... Im in week 6 of this!!
I took a nap when I got home and now I can't sleep... But still feel like crap .. Im sure my writing is probably giving off that vibe...

Sorry..

I am SO not me right now! And I'm at the point where I'm starting not to care about anything! My life is not a bowl of cherries currently and I can't even surf to center myself....

Well that is all...I just want to get well so I can get back on track and be me!!

Was suppose to go on a surf camp trip to San Elijo this weekend.... Its been planned for months and gonna surprise one I my fav peeps with a visit!!! Hmmm who could that be... ???

Anyway I just backed out.... So you know I'm sick if I am not going camping at my favorite place surfing with my best of friends :-(....it's what I live for!!

A lil update

Last weekend I went to Doheny again... Waves were 2-3 and the water was so warm.... Like 75 degrees warm!

But I didn't get to surf.... No.... But my hubs got to surf with MY friends at MY favorite surf break! That is just WRONG!!!!!!!!!!!

But I been sick and needed to save my strength for my first day at work...

Any way so I have been and still am sick ... My first day of work was not the greatest ... I coughed non stop all day! I was so embarrassed! :-(
So I am trying to absorb things while sick and not myself. I was drained and tired and stressed and was in bed before 9 pm.
As for my job.... I'm not sure yet... I don't even know what I'm suppose to do...things are not very organized.. Plus they use different computer programs and systems than I'm use to... Also the equipment in the office is a little more high tech than anywhere i work before... Which is kinda cool, but still frustrating at the same time....But hey it's only been 2 days I'm sure I will get it eventually.
Everyone In the office seem very nice and it seems like a fun nice place to work.
Also if I felt better, I probably would be looking at this differently. Plus I need to feel it out. And figure out my niche and when I do... Eventually I will be fine....I HOPE!

Why can't I just surf when I want and money magically appear???

Any way so here Are some pix from last weekend...

Delightful Doho

I have never posted anything negative about Doheny.. Because that wave has never disappointed me! Sure it has the worst water quality reported in so cal... But the water always seems clear and pretty when I surf there.... However I am sure it's what you can't see that will hurt you :-/

Well I will take my chances Ha!
I do want to point out last time I surfed there and swallowed some water I did have a bit of a stomach issue for a while after that.
Right now I am nursing a cold..but still surfed and have No regrets!

Friday I surfed with hubs and a few of my gals from WK.. And a student who was interviewing a few of us for a thesis she is doing .
Well I had one of the BEST surf days of my life!!!!
The wave was perfect.. Fun gentle glassy 2-3 little easy rollers! Just what I so needed after last surf session!
I caught so many fun long rides... Mostly rights.
It all felt so natural and like I had been surfing my whole life and that it's just part of me!

My husband finally caught a few real waves .. He was super stoked as well. Although he was intimidated by the crowd . The vibe was great everyone was nice and having a great time. It's just there was A LOT of people.
So I had him come over close to us and surf in our group so we can block for each other!

Then my friend Tracy and her hubs Charlie showed up and that really boosted hubs confidence having Charlie in the lineup... So I left Brian in Charlie's hands. It worked perfect .. Plus I see a bromance flourishing lol

We all were just having one big party out there. As a matter of fact we had a few awesome party waves! Just pure epic stoke!

I surfed till I could not pop up any longer ! About 2 hours.
I tried to do a 2nd session after I rested a while .... I wanted it so badly.. But I had NO stamina left. Hubs said from shore it looked like I was barely paddling... I tried I wanted it I was not done ... But my body said otherwise ... So I just paddled in after being out for just a short time the second time around.

I also surfed in my board shorts and rash guard!

The peeps the weather the surf!
It WAS the perfect day!

Then while surfing I got a message on my phone that the job I interviewed for last week wanted me to call them back.
I did and they said after my last interview they thought I would be a perfect ft for another position in the company... A BETTER position!

So tomorrow I interview with the President of the company! So keep those positive vibes coming! Especially you Bron in the land of OZ..... I think your energy you keep sending me from Australia is working! Keep it up and Thanks!

Yep that day was a PERFECT DAy!!!

Pictures as follows are in the surf my friend Tracy on a wave... Hubs on a wave and hubs paddling out and hubs and Tracy outside and Other fun pix! My friend Jen got a picture of me riding a wave or two, when I get it I will add it to the pictures .