It's been a while since I have been able to surf...write my blog.....exercise... Or do much of anything else.
Between being sick...working a new job, with longer hours than i am use too..also a bit stressed by my job.. It's not what I was told it was gonna be and I am still not a fan of it... But trying to go with the flow and put a positive spin on it... Keyword "trying". Also we have a very close family member who's is extremely ill.. That is a really hard one to speak about right now :-( plus everything is breaking around me ... Just recently my Tahoe... Which the repairs took up what we had in our bank account... (still at mechanics...so i hope its not more!!)Oh well at least it's getting fixed and it could have been worse!
It's all been taking a toll on me.. I was not doing well at all the last couple weeks!!
I am finally feeling better health wise but still have this lingering cough. As a matter if fact paddling out there today made me cough a lot.
So what I have been needing more than ever is to get a surf session under my belt!
I did!!!!I did!!! Doheny saves me again!!
It was not the best surf day... Was so hard to catch lots of paddling for nothing ... Only caught 2 rides..one closed out on me and then reformed inside and that was a fun ride!!! The other was a short ride I caught inside..
I almost had a perfect wave... But an out of place paddle boarder came and swooped it away from me..
He didn't know at DoHo the paddle boarders are not allowed to be where the surfers are...the lifeguard went on the bullhorn "after I was done surfing" telling him he needed to move to the other side... My friend Kathleen also had a lil word with him.. He had no idea why everyone was yelling at him... I kind of felt sorry for him... But still perturbed he took my wave!
Everyone was in the same boat we (our surf club) and my hubs and April's hubs all surfed ...we had like 12+ people out there. At one time it was all of us paddling for the same wave and not a one of us could catch it!! We were a cornucopia of surfers with various skill levels on boards ranging from 6 - 10 feet... And we all had the same kind of day..
But the water was warm!! I wore my shorty!!! The sun was out!! There were some off shores because when the wave broke inside and i was sitting outside i watched the beautiful spray dancing on top of the wave!. But it didn't feel very windy to me...
Of course.... Can never have a bad day when I'm with my surf girls!!!
One of our gals my good friend Artie took a board to her face last week at San O and has a few stitches on her lip.. She sat out but came for support and was our photographer... I have no pix yet.. But If and when they get posted I shall add some !
So this day helped me a lot... It helped me clear my mind...focus on the positive and get some much need water time.
Since I have no pix ... I stole this icon from someone a while back... It fits this occasion ;-)
"Cornucopia of surfers" I like that line. I'm sorry to hear about your woes, and that must suck surfing with a cough. I thought it was warm today too, so warm that I ALMOST trunked it, but I was too chicken-poop to do so. Hey, I got snaked today too by some guy who looked just like Anthony Bourdain. Welcome back to the ocean. I've never surfed Doheny.
ReplyDeleteHahahaha I hear it was Anthony after all;-)...
DeleteDoheny would be a good place to take Brianna... But for you on a small day. You will get frustrated I think ..... But it depends on the day!
Ahhh...the warm medicine of Mother Ocean to cure what ails ye! You're lucky...I have to take my medicine cold! ;-)
ReplyDeleteGlad to see you are re-filling your stoke-tank, though I hope it's enough to keep you going while SOCAL deals with the $5 a galleon gas prices!
Keep the faith...Mother Ocean is always there, dispensing her meds to all that are willing to open themselves up to her healing, though sometimes brutal, being.
I did not see the photos when I posted my comment...the Suppy looks to be all of 80lbs of kookiness! Wish I could of been there to block for you...
DeleteAww Pabs.. Wish you were there too! He was afraid of my friend Kathleen... So yeah. But she is the sweetest and was trying to tell him where he should e paddling... And not comming up from rhinos droopping in in people.. I was paddling forever to get that well before his what... Two strokes with his paddle...!!?!??? I did call him a F u*%#* though ...
DeleteAnd one should not have to cuss while surfing ;-)
Glad to hear you made it out for your session. It was interesting to hear about the paddle boarder. As a rule for myself, because we have no life guards, I always make it a point to stay clear of surfers. Do unto others as you would do unto yourself. I do not want to purposefully steal another's stoke. Shameful! I would agree with PABS though that the ocean is a healer. Being in the ocean in any capacity should be on everyone's to do list! Ok, well, maybe not everybody, because then it would be so crowded. I do relish the days when there is only a handful of surfers out at the beach. Plenty of space to breathe and relax. Love the icon!
ReplyDeleteGreat photos! I wish that I had my own personal photographer. I always have to ask my family members. The other day I asked my husband if he got any and he said no I thought you left the camera at home. No, I replied, I put it in the bag after you told me so. Oh well. Better luck next time. Hee hee!
ReplyDeleteThanks Michelle:-)
DeleteSorry to hear that all is not ticking along but getting out in the surf always helps and heals, even if you need to dodge the SUPs! We have quite a few on them on our home break as well.That wave looked really sweet, so bad that it didn't end up being yours! The surf has been ok over here but a mixed bag. Either small or massive and not much in between! I am about to have my wisdom teeth out today (yuck!) and the dentist says no surfing for a week! Not sure how I will cope with that! POsitive vibes to you, Bron :)
ReplyDeletePositive vibes right back at you for the dentist visit!
DeleteAs I have been told in the past.... The waves will always be there :-)