I just have to start by saying I woke up to good news.. my son is back in the USA!! His deployment is over and as he is not home yet, he is in the States, and I couldn't be happier.!
I didn't surf last week, I was so sick! Started Sunday after the Surfboards in the Sand event. I woke up with a sore throat.. lasted 3 days. Then turned into a head cold and I couldn't breathe.
So I couldn't surf last weekend, and the surf club I joined was having a end of summer party at San O.. I really wanted to go..but a week later, I still was not feeling good.
So another week goes by, and I feel a little worn, thought the congestion was gone. Just had the clearing of the throat symptom. No fever ever, I thought I was better really during this week. Did a lot of things around the house. Getting ready for my sons homecoming here, next month!.Because I just cant sit still and rest.
So I get all excited, Was going surfing Friday at Bolsa Chica for the first time.. was happy, got to fit my surfboard in the Jetta. New Surf, and I was going with the Pres of the new surf club...
So we get to the beach....looks perfect. ...got a lot of pointers from Cathy in the car.. Was excited to get out there.
She asked me to show her my pop up on the beach before we get out... I show her, she says it looks good... made me happy I was practicing.. however again. MY pop up on the stable sand, living room wherever there is not an ocean moving under you... is completely different when I actually catch a wave.. But at least I know what I am suppose to do.
Well this was my 10th time out.. totally still a kook..but I was getting more comfortable with the whole thing.. can paddle out.. although this was a longer paddle than Blackies. ( Also, since had been two weeks since I went out last, and I think my body was a bit sore from being sick, paddling was a lot more work this time.) Understood the waves more.. the break was not as bad to get past. I could sit on my board without wobbling waiting for a wave. Learned how to spin my board around to catch a wave at last minute.. NICE.. Every time I go I learn something new and feel a lot more confident.
I started feeling woozy and dizzy, and the smell of the salt water was making me nausea.. ( first off two of the things I love about surfing.. don't laugh... is 1. the smell of the ocean and salt water, very refreshing... 2. surf wax.. Is intoxicating...almost want to wear it as a perfume.. mmmmm surf wax) Even though I only waxed a board once.. I have it in my surf bag, and just smell it from time to time..yum.
I was trying to figure out what was going on. I was not even out there 5 minutes. I just got there. I could not be exhausted from paddling out. So I think OK...mind over matter, I will just ignore this and it will go away.. I try to catch a few waves, missed them. I don't know if it is because it was a new wave, or I just had no strength to paddle. I was feeling sea sick on my board. I kept trying to shake it off.. Caught one wave.. inside..but still rode it and tried to get up.. was really dizzy, but still rode it to shore , kinda on my knees, kinda crouched.
I went back out and was determined to keep at this.. but I just kept feeling woozy,, I sat outside paddled around a bit....watched the other surfers..and thought.. I feel really weak and dizzy, I have not even been out here long.. sooooo i did the dreaded paddle of shame.. i guess it is called when you don't ride a wave in... back to shore, and sat down on the beach and watched everyone else. Cathy totally rocked, and so did Kim, I think her name was. (she met us there).. but I was not feeling good, so I couldn't really concentrate on much.
tried to drink some water,,,,,didn't make me feel good.
Came home, and seriously fell asleep on the couch..and I woke up ate a piece of pizza, and went back to bed at 5:30'sh in the evening.. I just was not feeling good.
Woke up this morning coughing/and a bit congested.. Really?????
I am so over this! Not surfing.. the cold...how dare it interrupt with my surfing!!!