Saturday, October 3, 2009

Still Sick??

Hi All,
I just have to start by saying I woke up to good news.. my son is back in the USA!! His deployment is over and as he is not home yet, he is in the States, and I couldn't be happier.!

I didn't surf last week, I was so sick! Started Sunday after the Surfboards in the Sand event. I woke up with a sore throat.. lasted 3 days. Then turned into a head cold and I couldn't breathe.
So I couldn't surf last weekend, and the surf club I joined was having a end of summer party at San O.. I really wanted to go..but a week later, I still was not feeling good.

So another week goes by, and I feel a little worn, thought the congestion was gone. Just had the clearing of the throat symptom. No fever ever, I thought I was better really during this week. Did a lot of things around the house. Getting ready for my sons homecoming here, next month!.Because I just cant sit still and rest.

So I get all excited, Was going surfing Friday at Bolsa Chica for the first time.. was happy, got to fit my surfboard in the Jetta. New Surf, and I was going with the Pres of the new surf club...
So we get to the beach....looks perfect. a lot of pointers from Cathy in the car.. Was excited to get out there.
She asked me to show her my pop up on the beach before we get out... I show her, she says it looks good... made me happy I was practicing.. however again. MY pop up on the stable sand, living room wherever there is not an ocean moving under you... is completely different when I actually catch a wave.. But at least I know what I am suppose to do.

Well this was my 10th time out.. totally still a kook..but I was getting more comfortable with the whole thing.. can paddle out.. although this was a longer paddle than Blackies. ( Also, since had been two weeks since I went out last, and I think my body was a bit sore from being sick, paddling was a lot more work this time.) Understood the waves more.. the break was not as bad to get past. I could sit on my board without wobbling waiting for a wave. Learned how to spin my board around to catch a wave at last minute.. NICE.. Every time I go I learn something new and feel a lot more confident.


I started feeling woozy and dizzy, and the smell of the salt water was making me nausea.. ( first off two of the things I love about surfing.. don't laugh... is 1. the smell of the ocean and salt water, very refreshing... 2. surf wax.. Is intoxicating...almost want to wear it as a perfume.. mmmmm surf wax) Even though I only waxed a board once.. I have it in my surf bag, and just smell it from time to time..yum.

I was trying to figure out what was going on. I was not even out there 5 minutes. I just got there. I could not be exhausted from paddling out. So I think OK...mind over matter, I will just ignore this and it will go away.. I try to catch a few waves, missed them. I don't know if it is because it was a new wave, or I just had no strength to paddle. I was feeling sea sick on my board. I kept trying to shake it off.. Caught one wave.. inside..but still rode it and tried to get up.. was really dizzy, but still rode it to shore , kinda on my knees, kinda crouched.

I went back out and was determined to keep at this.. but I just kept feeling woozy,, I sat outside paddled around a bit....watched the other surfers..and thought.. I feel really weak and dizzy, I have not even been out here long.. sooooo i did the dreaded paddle of shame.. i guess it is called when you don't ride a wave in... back to shore, and sat down on the beach and watched everyone else. Cathy totally rocked, and so did Kim, I think her name was. (she met us there).. but I was not feeling good, so I couldn't really concentrate on much.

tried to drink some water,,,,,didn't make me feel good.

Came home, and seriously fell asleep on the couch..and I woke up ate a piece of pizza, and went back to bed at 5:30'sh in the evening.. I just was not feeling good.

Woke up this morning coughing/and a bit congested.. Really?????

I am so over this! Not surfing.. the dare it interrupt with my surfing!!!


  1. I am 4 years older than you and I've been surfing for 7 years, so let me give you some advice.

    First, stop harping on the age thing. I can't tell you how many blog posts I have read from women in their '40s trying to learn to surf and all they talk about is how they are a kook and a grandma and mid-life crisis or whatever. That is BS. It is self-deprecating and will hinder your progress. When you go out to surf, pretend you are ten years old. You have every right to learn this sport. Stop limiting yourself.

    That said, make sure you are in shape. I'm not saying you are not, I'm just telling you that it will be alot easier if you are regularly doing weight training and cardiovascular exercise. I've been working out for 30 years and I'm sure that has a lot to do with my attitude and my confidence.

    Understand that surfing is one of the hardest sports to master. It is also, in my opinion, the most gratifying. To become proficient, you need to get out there several times a week. Make whatever sacrifices you can to make that happen. I understand that with a family it can be hard. But take whatever steps you can to make your dream a reality.

    The Costco board probably cost you about a hundred bucks and thankfully not more. If you really want to learn, you need a real longboard. The foam boards are horribly unstable, limit you in a lot of ways, and encourage bad habits. Go on craigslist and get a used longboard. I started with an 8'6. I bought it new but you can probably get a used one for $300.

    The best advice I can give you is to be more aggressive with your surfing. If you want to learn, you need to toughen up a little. Go out there when it’s bad, go out there when it’s crowded. Find a way to make it work. If there’s too many people, go off to the side. If it’s too big, practice in the whitewater. If you get there and it’s flat, practice paddling. And I never thought I’d say this, but act like a guy. Just do it. I say this not to be mean, but because I see so many women give up surfing before they have really learned to enjoy the sport.

  2. Hey Surf Chick.. I totally accept honest criticism.. and I mean that in a good way. I am not making excuses..and I know i need to get out there more. I keep telling myself this once a week thing is not a enough. I do live about an hour or so away from the ocean..and work an almost full time job. So that does make it a bit more difficult to get out there. Also these past and next couple of weekends (my days off) I have so much to do until the middle of Nov. I have a lot of home improvements, and my son and his family will be here the first half of Nov.
    I am going to start looking for a real board relatively soon, money is an issue. I also have had so many people give me advice about foam verses real board. Since the person who is instructing me the most, highly suggested to start with a foam board for at least one season.. that is what I did. Plus I did buy it used from a friend and got a great deal. Who can pass up great deals. ;-)
    I will get more aggressive when I go out there. I am hoping to get out this weekend.
    You are right, I need to get into better shape. I was riding my bike and walking almost every day.Was doing sit ups and push ups, to condition myself to start surfing. I have to admit.. I have been lazy when it comes to exercise lately. I will get a boot in my butt and get back to it.
    I will not give up..I will keep at it.. but I think I may not be the "winter surfer" type.. I do want to get a few more sessions before the water gets colder.
    Thanks for commenting.. I really do appreciate the advice..and honesty.
    I need it!

  3. An hour from the beach is tough and I admire your tenacity. Keep up the stoke!