Friday, August 7, 2009

Surfing on a real board...ouch!!

Well I surfed today.. and my friend and "Free" and very much appreciated surf instructor Natalie came out with me. I learned a lot!! I feel like I was totally beaten up today by the waves. ALL new experience for me today. I was in 3 foot waves.. on a real board.. with wave after wave after wave. the sets were coming in fast. Last week I was waiting for waves today.. just too many.
I ended up renting a foamy.. more familiar and comfortable. May not have been so bad if the waves were not as big and they just never stopped coming. I feel I spent most of my time in the water jumping on coming waves than surfing them.. if that makes sense. I really feel the ocean beat me up today.. LOL. I messed up my back and have so many bruises.
Well it was a whole new experience on a real board..not the right type for me. The board was not was lighter, and it was shorter than I was use too, and I was not comfortable on it..and the beach/ocean was a lot different today than the last couple times I went out. That made for a whole new experience.
I did learn how to wax a board,,and that there is different types of wax for water temp. and you need a base coat and a top coat..........and it is a lot of work to just do that.
I learned balancing on a real board is harder and different. I tried though....and I tried.. but I needed a foam board, I was getting beat up and tired. I can't believe how many bruises I have. LOL
I also learned why my pop up sucks..I was doing more of a lounge and putting a lot on the back of the board.. I think I got it now.
Good news .. My new wetsuit was perfect.. It felt OK and better than the rental.
So today ....tough the surf ate me up and spit me out...LOL. but I learned a lot more... It was only my 5th time I guess I am on track..
I didn't die. Just a bit bruised sore and very tired.

Don't know when I will get back out maybe in a week..But as hard as it was.. I am definitely doing it again!!!


  1. Hi SG...greetings from the East Coast, where I've been kookin out for much of the last 15 years. I can relate to everything here, and just want to offer encouragement from a 48 year old who just can't seem to throw in the towel. I spend alot of time on the Outer Banks of North Carolina, and have surfed alot this summer, with very gradual success. And oh my...I surfed five straight days last week, and still feel like someone took me out in the back alley and gave me a good ass whippin!

    Don't quit my friend! Stay with the small surf and don't get discouraged when you get worked for two straight hours. Avoid the tempatation to go out when a big swell comes, just because everyone else does and you feel like you should.

    I've had some of my best days when the surf report was crappy.

    Please keep blogging, and keep surfing!

  2. Thanks for the encouraging words.. I really appreciate them. =-)...
    Took this week off from surfing...for a few reasons. One.. I tweaked my back last week falling off the board.. I have a bad back.. but even when it happened I grabbed the board and went right back out.. Two..had to get caught up on things around the house, and get my kid ready for back to school.. but I do plan on going back out next week.
    I hear you about the big swell. I totally know I am not ready for anything like that.But it is fun to go and watch the people who can hang.. I love my lil 1/2 foot and 1 foot waves..I have learn to embrace them and make them my friends.. and have enough fun on them....for now.
    Thanks again!