I liked this and wanted to share

A friend posted this on Facebook and she got it from another site. I just loved it and thought it would be nice to share. I think ALL us surfers can relate to the words.

Since I have not fully recovered from the Bronchitis bordering on Pneumonia, and surfed and got back into my running and did everything but fully rest...or I'm just plain ole sick again. I did not surf this last weekend. BUT I heard surf was not so great anyway so I did not miss much.

However my daughter REALLY wanted to surf this weekend... AND when My 14 year old said she wants to spend time with me.. and not just spend time with me..but dign what I LOVE!!! which is rare at this age..I got all excited too. BUT Thankfully she understood I was still not well and didn't want me to risk a possible hospital stay if I surfed with her. LOL..

So nothing new to report..Hopefully I will feel well Thursday and or Friday..my next days off..and hopefully there will be something to surf

Measuring a Wave!

So there has been a lot of discussion lately about how to measure a wave..and it is very confusing to me. SO I started using body parts.. ankle, knee, waist, chest, head. I usually do not like to surf anything much above my waist..and seem to go out when it is ankle to maybe chest high. WHEN some of those chest highs get bigger and or stronger. I will come in. I have realize too big for me. I think that as 4-5 waves. When I try to look at the face and do some fast math in my head. MY BEST wave was just over my head. I am so stoked and said it had to be a 5'. THEN my bubble was popped. BECAUSE of the whole Hawaiian style measuring. From the back of the waves. WELL 1).. you don't surf the back of the wave... and 2) When you are surfing.. who sees the back of the wave??? Does not make sense to me.

So I am gonna go with this way of measuring and stick with it.:

http://www.thesurfingsite.com/Wave-Height.html

OK I would like some feedback on this!

I still am stoked on my wave regardless.. it is and probably will always be my all time best.

Two views of one MAGICAL wave

Unfortunately I do not have a picture for this post. I am really bummed because I WISH I DID!!!!! But this work of Art expresses a lot of what I could not put in words about my experience.

I had to do a separate post for this wave I spoke a little about in my previous post.
I am still taking it in, absorbing what happened, and still in awe of this wave. THIS ONE WAVE. I mean this happened on Friday..and it is now Monday, and I think I have the right energy and perspective to finally put in words. I think I have finally come to the conclusion this really happened!

Last night I asked my husband to tell me what he saw on the beach when I caught this wave. Which I am going over and over in my head about. I still can't believe it. So after hearing my husbands version I was REALLY!!! It really did happen!! It was not a dream, it was not exaggerated in my mind...SO I want to do a post here as told by me and my husband view as it was happening.

So I am outside and a huge swell is coming in, All the other surfers paddle towards it, I heard someone say WHOA!! My thoughts were wow where did this come from? I was just about to follow the pack, when I don't know where I got the cajones? I just heard the words of my 19 year old surfer friend here where I work go through my mind, "Don't be afraid of the big waves" "Go for it!"

Me: I spun my board around and paddled for the wave.. thinking to my self.. Oh this is gonna hurt..your gonna die.. what are you doing?

Hubs: Oh look She is the only one paddling for that wave.(husband is not a surfer but a fishing boat captain. SO this gets good)

Me: oh crap I am lifting up too high.. too high. Oh shit!

Husband: You were on the white water top of the wave.. then you stood up Me: you mean the lip, I popped up at the lip?..(so what was going through my mind as I am on this part of the wave... was as said above, TOO high oh shit oh shit I am gonna eat it! OK just pop up..I did.. holy cow I am up!! Oh this isn't gonna last.. that is a long fall in front of me. Michelle last time you did this you ate shit..you are stupid, you are not ready for this.)

Hubs: then you fell to the front of the wave while standing on the board.. Me: I dropped onto the face of the wave,while still standing? (I remember dropping and my stomach dropped and all I could think is I am still standing!!)

Me: how big was the wave? Where was the wave on my body? waist, chest? Hubs: um it was above your head when you were at the bottom. ME: HOLEY SHIT A HEAD HIGH WAVE ?! I am 5'7" and it was at my head. so what a 5' wave? Hubs: yeah probably...(So seriously I was not thinking at this point how big the wave was... I was just trying to stay on my board..and I think my soul left my body..because I could not believe what was happening.. All that kept going through my head was I am still on, I am still on!!but I knew this was the biggest wave I have ever caught and rode!

Hubs: you were on for a long time and rode it all the way to the shore..you were going right. ME: I was going left he was facing me.. and I did ride it all the way to shore.. I think I was again having an out of body experience. I remember stepping of my board in ankle deep water, I was in a daze. I wish I knew what my expression was, I either had a smile ear to ear or I had a complete look of shock on my face. I remember looking to see if my husband saw it. I saw his red shirt and knew he was still there. Then I looked around expecting people to be all excited..BUT really I didn't know anyone around me. It was in a crazy moment. I grabbed my board and went out and asked Artie if she saw what happened? I really wanted to know how big that wave was..but she only knew I caught a wave.. she didn't see much else. I was thinking maybe it really was not that big of a deal..but I am so glad my husband was there and his description confirmed my feelings.

I am so Happy my husband saw that! I have a witness. I wish I had a picture or better yet video.. I really wish I could see the look on my face.

See...I think a wave that is waist high is big for me. I am so happy surfing anything and cruising on my board slowly in ankle to knee to waist high. THAT is my fav thing to do. That is MY surfing..

BUT now.. I have experienced this! Mamma likes and I want more please!!!

MY ME DAY!! What a Friday it was!!!!!

A few of the girls getting ready to head out here.

SO I just posted about my Thursday experience...and Now want to post about Friday.
Our club had planned a sunset SUP and then Happy Hour for this day. SO I planned to make the day out of it, I had the day off woot woot, and made it a ME DAY!....
..AND I had the BEST ME DAY!

My husbands boat did not go out in the morning, He text ed me to see where I would be surfing, so he got to the break before me & came to watch. I am so glad he did. HE FINALLY saw me catch some waves..not just white wash.. so he was impressed..and a bit proud of me. =)...

So the idiot from the day before did not discourage me. I came back to Blackies the next day at the same time. Well maybe a little bit earlier but not by much. Surf was not as big, but I say it was smoother than the day before. It was mostly knee to waist high, with an occasional chest to head high random wave or two.(I am using body parts to describe the waves, it is easier.., because, sometimes what I think is a 4' wave, is really a 3' or less..I have no sense of measurement when it comes to waves haha)

THE vibe in the water was so much different than the day before. A lot nicer group of people were out there and we had a blast. Yes it was still crowded..always is! "Note to self..if I surf alone.. surf next to female paddle boarder named Mona, She is out there all the time and everyone seems to know her and THEY all are nice." She calls waves for us and tells us to get ready and she is just a positive ray of sunshine out there..and just because she is on a paddle board, she does not dominate the surf. I liked her! My friend Artie met me there, I was so Happy she came! I don't get to surf with her as much and I love surfing with her. Then our friend Kori showed up later too. BUT even if they were not there. Again a much nicer group. The vibe was so positive..you just didn't want to get out of the water. Speaking of h2o..water temp seemed a little cooler, but I again wore my shorty, air temp for sure was, a few degrees cooler, BUT the sun was still shining.


My first wave I pearl... oh well. Whatever. This time I stayed outside the whole time, (until the waves were only breaking inside, then I moved there.) My second wave I pop up and slip right off. OOPS, I need some more wax, I run my hand across the board and it was so slippery. I forgot to check before I went out. I was just too excited and anxious to go out and surf. HA! So I came in. My husband asked if I was all right? He thought the board hit my head. I said no, I slid right of my board during pop up and I totally need to wax this.. so he watch my board as I ran to the Tahoe and got a bit of wax. DID the deed and ran back out to surf.

Went after another wave and weeeeee left all the way home. I was so happy.. it was a small wave, but it was a wave...and it was fun.
THEN I caught a few more... BUT then.. I went after a rather big wave, I don't know how big it was, BUT I usually don't go after these, Everyone else paddled towards it, no one went after it. Looked like it was gonna be big, coming in from the outside. WAY outside, and I decided I am gonna go for it. Words of advice from my 19 year old surf buddy I work with, went through my head. DON'T BE AFRAID OF BIGGER WAVES! Go for it! IT was at least 4' maybe bigger??? I catch it, and think for a brief moment I am gonna wipe out. I pop up, as I am rising up..and I STAY UP!.. it lifts me, it drops me and I rode that all the way to the shore. My heart was thumping I was so excited. I have to say I think that was the best REAL wave of my life. However I expected everyone to be as excited as me..but I guess I just looked like a surfer. I scan the shore for my husband I see his red shirt, so I know he saw it. I paddle back out to Artie, but she kind of missed it. She knew I caught a wave, but didn't see how big it was. OK from that point on I was invincible. I didn't catch anything else like that the rest of the day. But I did get a few more fun rides.
I was excited to see Kori joined us too.. She paddled up to us..but I was almost ready to get out. Her first wave was a long right.. She said she needed that.It was funny I saw her go for the wave and didn't know she caught it then I saw her riding all the way to the shore what seemed like forever. I had to go in.. I surfed for 2 hours. I would have stayed even longer, I was on a surfing high..but when your paddling for a wave and you just don't have that umph anymore and your arms feel like rubber, It is time to go in. My husband ended up leaving while I was out there... BUT sent me a text message saying he saw me and good job. =) YOU would think my day could not get better. And of course that wave was the highlight of my day. I wish I could see what I looked like from shore. It may not be as great as it is in my mind. HA! But I don't care.

So for lunch I hang out down the Peninsula at our fav bar. Just to hang with Holly, the bartender, I only had one Bloody Mary, because we still have SUP at 4:30 and Happy Hour with my girls. BUT I know a lot of peeps at this bar and it is good just to see them and give everyone a hug. These are some good people and I love to see them from time to time. They are not the ones who stay and close down the bar, these are the peeps who hang for social time. James bought me some chili cheese fries for lunch( THANK YOU JAMES..they were yummy) and Holly kept me well hydrated with water that was never empty. As we were sitting chatting, the weather just started changing, got cold, breezy, and the fog rolled in. I thought Paddle boarding may be out of the question, and I didn't bring anything very warm. Sent a text out and...it was still on.

We paddle-boarded in Huntington Harbor a good group of I think 15? Including Artie and Kori from earlier.. A whole gang of Wahine Kai taking over the harbor on paddle boards. It was fun and we did that for an hour. It was not as windy, and in the harbor it was more like a mist than fog. IT was actually kind of cool to paddle board through it.

Afterwards we all headed to Captain Jacks! We took up almost the whole lounge area, I had 2 coronas and a very tasty seafood Quesadilla. We all chatted and caught up. A few girls who did not paddle board joined us for girl time. A good time was had by all. I love these girls.. not all showed up and they were very well missed too. It was now almost 9 PM.. my day started I left my house at 6:45 AM. So needless to say I was pooped and it was time for me to head home....Great time all day with Great People...
...NOW THAT IS WHAT I CALL A ME DAY!!!!

The Good Bad and Ugly of surfing this time.

Ha this pix is after I rode to the shore. My facial expression shows a lot of how I felt that day. BUT I was seriously just getting the hair out of my eyes. I forgot to clip it up. Also shows how big the waves were, and THIS was after the first hour when they were even bigger.

OK so I am gonna start by saying I am getting over basically walking pneumonia.. Finished my Z pack, and steroids and still puffing on my inhaler. Doc says I can surf If I felt up to it.. Yep don't have to tell me twice.( BUT SERIOUSLY lately if it is not one thing it is another) Well, Thursday and Friday were my days off and I surfed both days. AND I have good and bad to post about it.

I don't want to start this post off with negativity and no matter what I still had a GREAT 2 days of 2 hours each day of surfing. SO YOU Mr. with the green and turquoise board at Blackies on Thursday are not gonna ruin my stoke.. ASSHOLE!!!!... more on him later.

So Thursday. It is my husbands Birthday and I wanted to get to the beach early and it just didn't happen. I had to take my daughter to school and then hit 3 freeways to get to my local surf. So yep during rush hour..but this time it was more congested than ever. I have no idea why.. there were no accidents? ANY way took me over 2 hours to get to the beach. WTF? I may not be the best surfer..BUT I GOT DEDICATION! ANY way I get there and I am happy with what I see. A bit crowded for a Thursday but surf was good waist to a few head high. So I guess that is why everyone was there on a Thursday. I am beginning to wonder if people work any more,GEESSH!

The sun was so hot on this Autumn day, water was I say 64. So I decided to put the shorty on. NOW I wear this Spring suit way more in the Fall than Spring.. I am changing the name to The California Fall suit.

So, no one who meets me here. I always get intimated going out by myself and I am not a forceful fight for my waves type of gal.. and REALLY at Blackies you should not have to be. But it is crowded, surf is decent and a bit bigger than I am usually comfortable with. Especially by myself.

But I went out past the break..tried for a few waves went after bigger than I usually do and again, I am by myself. I wipe out a lot. Pearled more than I have in a long time, BUT I am totally stoked I did it. I was out there and I tried. I am getting braver. I did catch and ride two waves in from the outside. One time I had a wave, and BOOM 2 others come up from the left and we all ended up on top of each other. I joked, and said, um so is what considered a party wave? It was so crowded. BUT I have to say the vibe out there was a lot of tude. One guy. I swear he was trying to chase me away. One point when I was paddling back out he came at me and I swear he looked right at me almost in the eye, swung/turned his board at my head and whizzed right by my ear. DUDE almost cut my head with his fins..I can almost guarantee it was on purpose. REALLY do we have to be like that AT BLACKIES even? I said YOU don't have to be an asshole, I am sure he heard me. AND if you are all that and a bag of chips. GO surf with the big dogs down the street!(that I didn't say..just came to my mind as I am typing)

I stayed inside after that and caught a few small 2 footers. A little more comfortable and of course what I am use to. I also practiced in the white wash, which was pretty strong.

AND even in there I think I got in the way of some more aggressive girl surfers. I tried to stay out of the way and even apologized to one, she just gave me a dirty look. I could not believe the vibe that day..BUT I didn't let it get to me. I just moved.

Also, getting over bronchitis borderline pneumonia. I had a cough attack out there. AND since I have the bladder of a peanut. LOL. I for the first time ever peed in my wetsuit.. what TMI? Sorry .. thought it was some surfing right of passage..and wanted to share. I have never been able to bring myself to do it before. BUT I had no choice.. it just happened.

I still surfed for an hour. Then decided to go in. I had an apt. with my son to work on my shoulder. Which by the way is feeling much better! I was surprised I surfed so long without pain.

And again it was my husbands Birthday, and I wanted to get home before he did from his fishing adventure in the mountains.

THEN my friend Clair shows up and I decided to surf for almost another hour. She took a few pix of me. BUT decided to just sit on the beach. I again surfed inside. Caught a few fun rides.

So this picture is one Clair took of me, I was riding inside now. I was practicing my turning.

Regardless of some of the negativity of some of the peeps that day. I am glad I stuck it out. If I don't I wont get any better. WE all start somewhere. I have not done this for very long. I am not young spring chicken either. I don't know why some surfers want to chase you away. They were once beginners too.. and HONESTLY the the ocean is pretty big. I don't get it.

Also that day my friend Laura swung by when I got out the first time said Bolsa was closing out, But she surfed anyway. I also saw Rick. Seeing friendly faces at your break, make up for the not so nice ones that you don't see out there regularly. That makes it all the more worth it. =)

WHY do we do what we love even if it almost kills us?

Yeah so um anyway if you read my last post..I ran a 5K sick and then went surfing the next day..against the will of my husband who was worried about my health..So I went to the Doctor yesterday, Been sick for over 10 days and now..I have an annoying cough..thought I would just get some cough med, because the over the counter stuff and my all natural sunny days cough drops didn't cut it...and find out I have Bronchitis.. bordering Pneumonia..and NOW I am on some serious Antibiotics, Steroids and an Inhaler..Was told if I don't take my meds and rest. I will end up with full blown Pneumonia and prob a hospital stay...... I don't really like medicine and try to do things holistic style..BUT that did not work so much this time. AND I was shocked at how much medicine and pills I had to take. Yesterday in one sitting I had to take 6 pills and 2 puffs of an inhaler. WTF!? I called my pharmacist who filled the prescription and argued this cant be right.. I am gonna OD over here..BUT nope it was right. WOW!

...Even after that I was still gonna attempt a surf/camp trip this weekend up North and surf Mondos and visit the Avocado Festival. BEEN LOOKING FORWARD TO THIS ALL YEAR!!! My friend Tracy can't stop talking about Mondos and how much I am gonna love it. Plus I love Avocados and am in need of a good camp out.....

But my husband is ready to tie me up and throw me in the closet.. for my health and my own good....So I guess I better rest..

BUMMER!

Taking it easy..slowly get back into things...um yeah, right...

So Friday I take a trip to Blackies just to see the surf. I am saving my energy for Sat. and Sun. because I am getting over being sick.. Last time I surfed I got sick that night, and that was 10 days from Friday..and been sick since..So this top pix is of Blackies last Friday.. wish that was me out there..seriously looked like fun. Knee to waist high, fun little nuggets.. just my kind of ride.

But I had to save my umph for a 5K Beach Palooza in the LBC.. a little race we signed up as a surf club to do. So the following pix are just a few from that day. SO MUCH FUN! But it was hard and I was still hacking from being sick..BUT I did it.



Some how we ended up in the front of the line at the start of the race.. I am wearing a pink lei..Yes that is me with my mouth wide open in the back to the left..



I ran my heart out..but could not run the whole thing.. RUNNING in the sand is hard..and lets not forget to mention the obstacles we had to go through even fire jumping.




Just some of the girls from Wahine Kai who raced that day. We just sooo rock.

I finished and I am soo happy. My standing for my age group 40-44 was I came in 11 for my age >49:57.45 14:16/M and I am happy with it for being my first race ever.. being sick and NEVER ran in the sand before.


So yeah I wake up Sunday and I am sore and tired and wondering if I will ever move again.. I told the husband I am staying home and not surfing today, I just can't I have no more energy..but guess who got up and decided to go surf San O?
ME!! I text my husband and said decided to go to San O after all..His reply was "you are gonna end up in the hospital if you don't rest and you are still sick".. yeah I didn't listen. We had our Surf club end of summer party...although some of the Paloozers from the day before didn't make it..I did!



So San O..Waves are 2-3' I never surfed there before. My first time ever.



I can't believe how many people are out there. The paddle out is a bit farther than I am use too. But it was not so hard..My shoulder is still sore and I am exhausted and sore from yesterday and yep still getting over being sick.



So I caught my first couple waves on the inside to get use to this. They were fun and easy.
Later I did get out past the break..(the photographer left before that, so no pix of me riding in from there..and I did good too) I was a bit intimidated by how many people were out there, how far the paddle out seemed, and the waves look like they were so BIG outside. THE waves were so hard to catch, very deceiving.. I paddled my heart out thinking the wave was gonna break and nothing..SO much paddling for nothing. YOU had to work hard for these..but when you did.. and you caught one the ride in was long smooth and fun. I had so many lefts. BUT the paddling really did a number on my shoulder.. IT is very sore today. But all in all I LOVED it..I can't wait to go back to San O again. Um I think my chiropractor is not gonna be very happy with me though..I am still suppose to be "taking it easy".. "NOT pushing it."

So now today I went to work and rested. HA!