Monday, August 26, 2013

Size does NOT always matter

This is seriously what I look like when I pop up!! Lol

Been a while since I surfed..but I surfed today even though surf still sucked ...1' and wind picked up early.

But the sun was out ... Fun people in the water and water temp was cooler than last time ...but not bad... AND the crowds are gone :-)!!!

I took Tallulah out since it was so small today.. And been lectured about using my 8'0 beloved Mo on small days..
HOWEVER.. I caught shit on Tallulah... And I was getting flustered:-(.. I was ginna go in after 20 minutes of failed attempts trying to catch a wave!

My neighbor offered to trade boards so I used his 9'0 foamy and got it dialed in and caught some waves .... But as soon as I was up the ride was over.. Mostly do to my Neanderthal evolution type pop up as seen in the above pix^!!!! I need to work on that and get up faster!

But as Vanessa said today at least im out there and standing up ... Regardless of how I get up!

We all played musical boards today and Daryl  my 67 year old neighbor was the only one able to pop up on  Tallulah! I rode his 9'0 foam board.. Jo Ann's heavier 9'0 foam board... Jo Ann tried Tallulah and did not have  much luck wither .And when Hubs went in I rode his 9'0 Art in Motion board.

I totally was not on my game today... But it takes time to dial into every different board... And I realized today besides popping up slow . ... Since im goofy footed and even when I go right backside I still seem to lean a bit left and my rail was digging in the water and I wipe out ..after I realized what I was doing and put my back into it a bit more .. I had two nice rights down the line.. On hubs board ... Finally!!

After 1 1/2 hours of surfing I did not want to come in.. But wind picked up and on top of being small.. Was not that fun... However I stayed out longer than everyone one except my 67 year old neighbor Daryl!! He rocks.. He surfed when he was younger and just picked it up again this past year... His advice... NEVER STOP SURFING!!! :-)

All in all it was a fun day ... And I needed it! 
This is after surfing!

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