So Of course got to get my surf on!
Nothing to crazy to report so far surfed 2 days out of the 9 that i am here..
Surf has pretty much sucked and this Bolsa session nothing like my last Bolsa Session..
Go Figure!
So I surfed Blackiea with my friend Kim ... Who is recovering from a torn tendon in her leg.. She can't really surf or pop up... But she can paddle and catch waves on her belly !!
Surf was perfect for her ... Even if it was breaking on my ankles! Note pix above! Ha!
Oh and how the water temperature has dropped !! I went in my long 3/2 and no booties... I regret not putting them on!! My feet were like ice cubes! It's August right???
But an hour and a half of fun lil rides so no complaints!
Then Bolsa... Got a late start... Had to walk the dog and I overslept a bit..
Was planning on surfing Seal with Lisa and Alain..But I had my hands full with Herbert .. The dog I'm caring for..
But since it was a late start ... Met some Wahine Kai and surf Moms at Bolsa after 9:00.. I am exactly 10 minutes from here!!
Again cold water and waves were knee to chest high..
I can not really say I had fun surfing ...i had a hard time catching waves and there were these guys that kept paddling around me and taking my waves. One in particular was bugging me... Oh wow Big Man can out paddle a girl!! Not to mention you had a bigger board!!! Geesh!! I was north of our group but these guys kept paddling into our group.. I was a tad Annoyed... But happy to be out with my friends... And I finally caught 1 nice left and a few close outs... So the day was not a total loss!
I went for shoulders that were too soft... And I think if I sat inside just a little more.. I would have got a few more... But oh well!
Surfed for an hour and I really was tired .. My arms hurt, my body hurt, and I was out of it!!
I can't say the surf tired me out.. It was a very easy day... And I'm not sure why I felt so drained.. But I did...
Plus I had to get back to release the hound!..(Herbert is crate trained)
But first a stop at "The Secret Spot" for a pier bowl!! Yum!
So now stay tune for what the next couple days bring!! Right now nap time!
nice write up! yea, it's been colder everywhere... what's going on summer??? i thought we were friends??
ReplyDeleteand yea, effff those guys back paddling you. hate those kind of surfers. oh well, it's a small day.
and yay for secret spot!!