I was soooo excited to surf today!!!
Hubs had day off ... He has been surfing everyday this week before he went to work.. Luckily he works 2 miles from Blackies ... I'm a tad jealous ...
Also, he is starting to out surf me.. It's not fair!
So I said can we surf on your day off!!??It suppose to be warm and I Really was jonesing!!
My friend Irma had a real bad day the other day and said she needed to surf... I said when and where ?? She replied Blackies 9:00 AM!
So ended up Irma, me, Brian,Susan,Bridget, and Jen O..... Plus other Blackies crew who are always there.
It was sunny, water was cold and waves were 2-3' and I think I'm being generous with the 3'
I forgot to do my sun salutations at home so I did it on the beach... It helps me start my day 10 everyday
I really enjoyed it... Was a more spiritual experience .. I was feeling good and waiting for my friends to show up...
Hubs and I headed out after everyone arrived.. We were the first two out in the line up of our group.
It was crowded and we found a lil nitch , however there were two guys not letting me have any waves ... I was getting discouraged... I left Brian and went a little south and low and behold the one guy who was most aggressive next to me was there and again would not let me get a wave! Also there was an older man kook who was sitting inside waiting for whitewash obviously learning but he too was always in my way.
My hubs was actually annoying me... He keeps trying to tell me what to do... Sometimes I wish he shut up.. I have been surfing longer than him and I do know what to do... And honestly ... He does not know as much as he thinks ...so it irritates me.
I came out and analyzed the scene... Trying to figure where to go.
So I saw Bridget getting in and told her how I was getting discouraged and I went back out with her ..
Soon all of us were there and I felt more secure.
I was still not catching anything and getting frustrated and annoyed.. Susan and I both paddle for a wave I was going left and was aiming that way and Susan right.. We were on the wrong side of each other.. so we laughed and neither of us caught the wave :-(
Bridget noticed I was aiming my board and said just go straight and turn after your up.. I told her this is how I caught waves at Bolsa i really wanted to start going down the line and get my rail in there, she said its totally a different wave..And my board is smaller ...Almost Everyone else catching waves were on 9-0 and 10-0... A lot of 10-0's! Also seems like Blackies and I have not been getting along much lately either ... I have not been doing well at that break last few times I have surfed there.. And that messes with my head.
So after paddling for a ton of waves and not catching any... I paddled outside away from everyone and just took a few deep breaths and just meditated a bit.. I wanted that feeling I had before I got out there.
After that and with Bridget's advice I caught waves... My first was a nice long left... After I was done I fell back in the water and was just ahhhhhhhhhh! I feel better now...
My friends were all happy I finally caught one!
I caught 3 more after mostly lefts and all fun!
One was an accidental ride...I was paddling out and I went over a wave and see my hubs and an awesome surfer named Ford coming right at me.
I was in the middle so I just turned my board paddle and caught that one hubs went left ... Ford backed off wave when I caught it and I went right.
I don't think Ford was upset.. I think he gracefully backed off for me... I think????
Anyway lastly, hubs and I decided to come in after 2 hours. We had some important errands to run..He said I'm getting one more and taking it in.. And no sooner he said that he was gone.. I tried to take one in.. But I didn't get it.. Paddled for another and didn't get it... Caught some white wash in and rode in on my belly with arms out... My version of the "superman"
We got out saw a few more peeps said some hellos got dressed and said our goodbyes!
Side note... I am currently on a low fat..low cal..low carb diet..
So may have something to do with my negative attitude in the beginning ...and low energy to paddle harder for some waves!
But in the end... It was a good day surfing!
Glad you got out there for some mid-week surf. The weather really has been perfect.
ReplyDeleteI'm finally catching up on your blog! I'm sorry that I haven't been around and I've missed visiting here. I'm really glad that you've been getting some surf in - I can live vicariously through you! And too funny about your husband. That's how I kind of feel about mine too when we surf together. haha.
ReplyDeleteFunny you say that .. A lot of my friends who's spouses surf with them feel the same way... Most of them say they won't even surf next to each other... And both come out of the water very happy !!
DeleteI just read your blog and enjoyed it. I have no idea how I found it. I hope you don't mind me commenting. I surf Blackies all the time and have always wished my wife surfed. She is not a water person and never will be. I was there last week and this regular and his wife were out as they often are. They started bickering a little and she paddled away a little ticked off. He turns to me and says, "Everyone wants a wife that surfs. Let me tell you, sometimes I wish she didn't!" I got a kick out of that :)
ReplyDeleteMike, I was never a water person, and somehow my husband convinced me to surf. I really loved it and enjoyed surfin with him. I can't say it held us together, since he turned out to be a cheater, but I really am glad that he got me in to it. If she has any sense of adventure, just keep gently encouraging her, and don't be overbearing. (and don't cheat)
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