Eventful 3 days of surf

Well I was fortunate to do something I do not always get to do... Surf 3 days in a row!

Day one ...Saturday
Day of paddle out for Pabs at Bolsa with my fellow bloggers. It was a fun day.. was small but I caught a few rides ... Nothing to really write about.. But it was the best out of the three days!

Day two Sunday went out at Bolsa again and conditions were way different than the previous day! Boy what a difference a day makes!

Met up with Laura who recently came back from Surfing warm waters in Hawaii and then Nicaragua ... she is not a fan of going in on cold days or windy days So for her to want to surf cold waters on a cold and windy day was rare!

Well if Laura is going in I suppose I should not argue... With the stormy weather headed our way , we were not sure when we would be able to surf again and I was pet/housesitting close to the beach till Monday, so have to take advantage of it!
So we decide we will head in , even if for 30 minutes.. I thought well at least I will get some paddling in .. I need to condition myself more in that department any way.

Well I defenatly got my paddle on ...it was so choppy and the wind-swell drifted us north at a fast pace.. We were at the next tower at the blink of an eye. This happen a few times.
We stayed out for 40 minutes ... Laura caught one ride in and I caught one in....

Irma showed up... Didn't go in... Basically watched us and thought we were crazy being out there in those conditions... Laurie showed up after surfing a few towers down a little earlier and said her conditions were a lil better than ours...
After surf met up with Laurie and we went to secret spot and got some brunch...
During brunch hubs sends a picture from the boat while working the whale watch trip .. With text "25' shark near Harbor get out of water!!" Well I was already out.. And yeah...like I carry my cell phone while surfing!! And found out its a basking shark... As my friend Laurie puts it those are cute and cuddly ;-).. And yeah a 25' this is a baby.. They can get to 60'.. But still if I saw a 25' shark of any kind .. I would need a new wet suit!!!! :-0

Day three..Jen O, Irma, Artie ,Karen and I surfed different spot. My friend a paddle boarder , Mona showed up also. Any way water was Colder than the last 2 days.. Sun was not out, But, Not as windy as Sunday... And a 25' shark lurked nearby... Uh huh call me crazy I along with my friends went for it .

I used hubs new 9'0..
Caught 0 waves!! I kept paddling for them... But was not catching and when I did I purled.. Yeah conditions sucked tide was low and getting lower ... So we were in shallow water with pitchy closed out waves I had no idea how to use hubs board ..This was not the day to try!!!
One wipeout ...board came back smacked me upside my head...my ear was ringing thought the fin cut my ear... It was so cold my ears were numb.. So I kept checking for blood... Luckily none... But I was sore! Still am as I type this.. Feel like I been socked in the head and feels like my ear was bent back or something .. But I will live! No bruises or cuts. However
I Wish I used MO..

As for the rest of the surf session ..
There were 2 big sea lions out and 1 Rockstar... Yeah I surfed with Billy Joe Armstrong of Green Day.. But what's so cool about that , is when your in the line up... We are all the same... Surfers.
I am not posting where I surfed this day so he can surf in peace... It's not the first time he has been at this break ... And I never bug him...
However he was coming back out and paddled over a wave landing with a hard splash behind me... I jumped I told him you scared me!! I thought you were one of those sea lions.... He laughed and said oops sorry !

I paddled back down towards Jen and Karen.. Left Irma there to chat with Billy..
I was not feeling that peak after I hit my head..

I def worked on my paddling muscles surfing 3 days in a row.. But wish conditions were a little better .. But it's good to get in on days when it's not so great... That's what makes you a better surfer... Right?

Below pix hubs sent me of said shark along with the text message he sent me ... It still makes me laugh ..what good is it sending me a text like that while surfing?