Sorry No Pictures this time.... I guess I should have taken a pix of my repaired board.But didn't think of it ..any way...
I had two days off this week. I picked Tallulah up on Tuesday, Fresh from her nose job "AKA ding repair". THANKS MOLLY YOU ROCK! Went to go and see if there was any surf from Bolsa to Blackies.. NADA..not when I went after 12 it was just mush mush and more mush. But I sat at Blackies a while and saw 4 crazy people out there. I don't know what they were thinking..but they did catch some rides.. at least 2 of them seem to know what they were doing. WOULD not have been me for sure. YIKES.
I also dropped a 3/2 wetsuit off at the Frog House for repairs. I hate to admit it but I gained a little weight this winter. I need to get my butt into that wetsuit, so massive diet and exercise regimen has already began. ANY way I don't want any more rips at the seem. That was my first day off and my surf related agenda for the day. Since this is a surf blog. I am sure you don't want to hear how after that, I went home did laundry and dishes..No?? I didn't think so..any way day 2....
Wed. I went surfing my home break and it was not the best conditions. BUT better than Tuesday that is for sure. I just wanted to get out. I had not been out since my harsh, rage filled surf sesh the beginning of the month, and I needed too. SO I along with 2 other gals. Laura and Clair headed out. The Surf, was what my friend Tracy informed me was Wind Swell. Where it just keeps coming in a bit of a white wash bumpy mess.. Consistently. But there were a few ridable white wash messes. LOL. I rode 3. Which I am impressed by, considering my surfing ability. I surfed the South side less crowded part of the pier. Got three short BUMPY rides. I got up and they were short because not a lot of power behind the water surge, it petered out pretty fast. But I did get up and rode 3, so I was stoked. Still working on that pop up..I am getting better.Probably still not as graceful as I would like to be..but I am gonna claim it just the same.. any how, I wanted more. BUT I was feeling a bit exhausted and I really feel I need more upper body strength. I notice when I go over 3 weeks without being in the water,I lose my paddle power. =(.. I had been running a 4 mile regimen and doing a strength training exercise routine, in between, But I need to work more on upper body. Although I think you can work on upper body all you want .. I am convinced your paddle strength comes from getting out there and paddling without a lot of pauses in between. Sometimes for me that is just not possible. Wish I could say different, But I cant. Any way. I still wanted to surf and be in the water. I tried to get out on the North side of the pier. For pretty crappy, yet surfable day, it was still pretty crowded and it was a Wed. DON'T these people have jobs? ANY way I just could not get outside. I paddled and tried but I could not. I started feeling exhausted from trying, and I felt I was paddling in one place and not going any where. Also a SUP kept coming at me every time I felt I was gaining ground. He was in my face. uggg.
I just decided to call it a day. It was a nice sunny.. FINALLY sunny day. A bit windy, but felt good to be out and getting some sunshine. I was at it for an hour. I got some exercise.
Then spent the rest of the day walking around...walked the pier, saw a whale from the pier. A few dolphins and a few Sea Lions... Watched the crazy surfers from the pier...IT still "looked" surfable. Went and had a bowl of clam chowder. Came back and Surf dramatically changed to pure YUCK, Irma showed up and decided to leave and go bike riding instead. Laura also came back and we went and had a beer and Girl Talk. OH by the way.. Long Board Lager..not a bad beer. So I still feel like I had a nice much needed enjoyable day. Not one of my best surf days..BUT a surf day non the less.
I, too, like that Long Board Lager. Keep enjoying those sessions, and forget about the rage.
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