Sunday, April 17, 2011


Well remember my last surf last blog? Where I went into the ocean all aggro. Surfed with idiots, took my anger out on the Innocent and went after a wave that was not mine,JUST because other guys were taking my friends waves..and I was not sure if this guy was associated with them. Also I wanted a wave damn it! I hit that guys board, he was more worried about me than anything. WELL I finally took my board out of her bag and inspected her. Thinking MAYBE I could surf on my days of last week. NADA no surf. BUT NO on the days I am working it is just perfect.. OF COURSE it is!!..any way!!! I would not have been able to surf with my baby! I noticed Karma came up and bit me in the Butt! Tallulah needs a nose to say. Look at her nose. OUCH! I feel so bad...I caused this..It might as well be one of my kids with a broken bone. I cried when I noticed the crackish.. (trying to use a little made up surf slang there).."crackish".. NO? OK never mind.. BUT seriously she is in need of some attention. SO I need to get her attended too before my surf camp trip. SEE this is what happens. I went in with negativity came out negative and beat up in more ways than one my board hit me in the face, and the Ding. SO DOUBLE Karma.. BE nice surfers! Take it from do pay for your negativity!.. hmmm wonder if those not so nice surfers got a bit of karma too.. OK SORRY!!! I will play nice... promise!!! Also was told never take a board you love when surf is crowded..but this is the only board I have.. I am still monogamous to my baby.. but now I know why.. AND this summer I am on the look out for an 8' board that can get a bit beat up.SO let me know if you have one or hear of one I could buy at a very reasonable price. NOTHING new. Old is good, for now!


  1. If that's the worst ding on your board, your not trying hard enough :)

  2. Haha Goofykook..that seriously is funny =)..It is my first board casualty. I try to be a very careful surfer, because I only have one board. For now! So I try NOT to ding her!
    Now I was even more cautious when I didnt have medical insurance...but now I do and usually surf at a place that is only a hop and skip and jump from a Hospital.. I tend to take more risks.. So I am sure when I get a board I dont care about dinging up.. I will TRY HARDER..=)

  3. sorry about your board! It is so hard, especially in SoCal to be nice in the line up. There are so many kooks and jerks in the water. Many of them have no clue about etiquette. I say we go back to old school Hawaiian style when they popped people's tires. I'm just saying....Sometimes it doesn't pay to be too nice in the line up because people are still gong to drop in on you.