Saturday, January 8, 2011

There are worse things to be addicted to!

OK, So I have not been able to surf, or be in the water or even near it for that matter.
Last time the cold pacific and I met was the day after Thanksgiving..Sad so sad.. a surfer just should not have to go about 2 months without a taste of the water.

I could have sucked it up the past two days(my days off) and attempted a session.But IDK if it is my age, or the fact my 4/3 is getting worn and a few holes in it?? I just could not bring myself to dip into that cold ocean.

However, that being said.. I think I am really having withdrawals. I am getting so irritated lately. Oh, and just so easily.. OK , I am also finishing up a detox diet and have had no caffeine, sugar, alcohol.. etc..but I think I would be fine, if I could just paddle out past the break and just take one big Breath!

Right now I am just throwing myself into my latest issue of WSSM and trying to read West of Jesus. But it is just not the same.

I have never done crack.. or any "major" drugs for that matter..but If I had to guess... Surfing is like Crack..and I need a fix!

1 comment:

  1. You are a breath of fresh air! Thank you for posting something so sincere and honest! You have found someone who is in the same boat! I want to say that my surfing vacation over Thanksgiving was my last taste of the ocean as well. It does not help me that the Florida Gulf Coast has seen one of the coldest winters on record already and I only have a 3/2 (which should be adequate for this area!). The cold fronts are generating waves, but are also pushing the water temps down to the 50's. I have even thought that maybe I could wear two wetsuits. Either way my heart still aches for the beloved time I spent in the water over the summer. I miss being able to spend the entire day in the water until the sunsets. I miss the warm water and sunshine! I have been thinking that this week if the chance presents itself I must go to the water even if it is to check out my new surf mat! I NEED SOME OCEAN TIME ASAP! So don't worry you are not alone. So thank you for your posting and your sincerity! Just think how awesome your blog post will be when you finally make it to the ocean to catch some waves! Sweet!