Monday, January 17, 2011

Weekend Warrior of the Waves, along with everyone else!

I am starting this post out, by saying I think I had one of my BEST surf weekends ever! I know I have felt and said that about a few previous ones. And People reading this are probably thinking (especially surfers) That um the waves were OK, but not that great.

Let me tell you.. the waves were perfect for me. The water was a tad crisp, maybe pushing it saying it could have hit 58-60 degrees according to my husband and the fishing boat computer. The air temp was 80'sh in JANUARY!!.. welcome to California .. But thanks to my 4/3 It was the perfect combination.. although the water could have been a tad bit warmer.. I would not have complained.


Well I took advantage of my 2 days off, on these beautiful Winter days.. and surfed both days.

Saturday.. our club planned a surf session, quite a bit of girls showed up. It always feels so much better to surf in a pack of your peers. These girls rock. Even if the surf sucked.. we all still would have had fun. But, it didn't suck. I say 2-3 ft. and an occasional 4.

When I paddled out past the break.. I took one look out to the horizon and just one deep breath and said to one of my friends.. this is all I needed.

I went after so many waves.. I caught I think 6 or so. Well OK 5 or so, one caught me.. which I will get to, because that was just too funny.

My surf break looked worse than the 405 freeway, I have to tell you CROWDED. So getting a wave and not killing anyone or yourself was a task in itself. But I didn't. SO accomplishment.

First wave.. caught.. pearled..fin hit foot, a lil scratch and it is gonna get bruised. What a way to start! (remember my last post I said I thought I forgot how to surf, um yeah..) well I was pissed. I thought GREAT this is how I am going to start this. NO.. NO .. NO.. I am going to catch at least one good wave!

I started going after stuff I normally wouldn't. Which if you saw the faces on some of the people around me, they were shocked. HA! I had insurance now, and the hospital was right up the street... so risks are gonna be taken!

Second Wave..caught, balanced, crouched, and stood up near end of wave. GOOD JOB!!!

Third Wave.. paddle, paddle, paddle, OH hell no I am on the lip.. scooted back on my board and that was that. No Wipe out.. =-).. yet another accomplishment. A bit of control.. wow!

Fourth wave.. This is funny.. I am paddling back in, after failing to catch a few waves I was going after. I see this rather big wave coming at me.. I thought crud!! I can either turtle, Not so great at yet, prefer not doing. Ditch the board, and dive. Nope! I just spun my board around.. and it caught me. I thought for sure this is not going to be good, this is going to suck, I am so going to tumble. But wait.. I am still SITTING on my board with my feet dangling riding the wave like a horse. I say to myself... OK?? I put my feet back, hoist my chest up, pop up and ride it in.. I was soo laughing.. That was the funniest wave I ever caught... I wish that could have been videoed!

Fifth and sixth waves.. both wipe outs. But both again.. I was on the lip. But these were random huge waves I was paddling for.. I have no idea where these big waves came from. But, while I was paddling for this one wave.. I thought, this is too big for you, you are crazy, what are you doing? Then when I realized I was on the lip and went right over, boom, crash, tumble, My thoughts... "Darn it this is how I got the fin to thigh last time, Oh... cover head cover head!!!!, which way is up. oh OK.. head out of water, where is my board? ok..BREATH"..whew.. no injuries.

I got back on my board everyone was staring at me, I am not so sure why? waiting to see if I was alright?... or my best guess, they were wondering, what was I thinking going after that wave. I just got my bearings paddled back up to the line up and said "well that was not very fun".

I rode one more wave back in. Not the best one. but I will take it.

Then surf day ended with snacks and drinks at one of the WK gals home. It was all perfect.

My 17 year old was with me. We ran around a bit after, promise her I would take her to a few stores.

Then we went to pick up my husband at a different beach. His boat was a little late, so I walked the pier with my daughter at Sunset, What a way to end a beautiful day!

Sunday I get up and am ready to do it all over again... I think I will put that on a separate post. I feel this one was long enough.

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