Eventful 3 days of surf

Well I was fortunate to do something I do not always get to do... Surf 3 days in a row!

Day one ...Saturday
Day of paddle out for Pabs at Bolsa with my fellow bloggers. It was a fun day.. was small but I caught a few rides ... Nothing to really write about.. But it was the best out of the three days!

Day two Sunday went out at Bolsa again and conditions were way different than the previous day! Boy what a difference a day makes!

Met up with Laura who recently came back from Surfing warm waters in Hawaii and then Nicaragua ... she is not a fan of going in on cold days or windy days So for her to want to surf cold waters on a cold and windy day was rare!

Well if Laura is going in I suppose I should not argue... With the stormy weather headed our way , we were not sure when we would be able to surf again and I was pet/housesitting close to the beach till Monday, so have to take advantage of it!
So we decide we will head in , even if for 30 minutes.. I thought well at least I will get some paddling in .. I need to condition myself more in that department any way.

Well I defenatly got my paddle on ...it was so choppy and the wind-swell drifted us north at a fast pace.. We were at the next tower at the blink of an eye. This happen a few times.
We stayed out for 40 minutes ... Laura caught one ride in and I caught one in....

Irma showed up... Didn't go in... Basically watched us and thought we were crazy being out there in those conditions... Laurie showed up after surfing a few towers down a little earlier and said her conditions were a lil better than ours...
After surf met up with Laurie and we went to secret spot and got some brunch...
During brunch hubs sends a picture from the boat while working the whale watch trip .. With text "25' shark near Harbor get out of water!!" Well I was already out.. And yeah...like I carry my cell phone while surfing!! And found out its a basking shark... As my friend Laurie puts it those are cute and cuddly ;-).. And yeah a 25' this is a baby.. They can get to 60'.. But still if I saw a 25' shark of any kind .. I would need a new wet suit!!!! :-0

Day three..Jen O, Irma, Artie ,Karen and I surfed different spot. My friend a paddle boarder , Mona showed up also. Any way water was Colder than the last 2 days.. Sun was not out, But, Not as windy as Sunday... And a 25' shark lurked nearby... Uh huh call me crazy I along with my friends went for it .

I used hubs new 9'0..
Caught 0 waves!! I kept paddling for them... But was not catching and when I did I purled.. Yeah conditions sucked tide was low and getting lower ... So we were in shallow water with pitchy closed out waves I had no idea how to use hubs board ..This was not the day to try!!!
One wipeout ...board came back smacked me upside my head...my ear was ringing thought the fin cut my ear... It was so cold my ears were numb.. So I kept checking for blood... Luckily none... But I was sore! Still am as I type this.. Feel like I been socked in the head and feels like my ear was bent back or something .. But I will live! No bruises or cuts. However
I Wish I used MO..

As for the rest of the surf session ..
There were 2 big sea lions out and 1 Rockstar... Yeah I surfed with Billy Joe Armstrong of Green Day.. But what's so cool about that , is when your in the line up... We are all the same... Surfers.
I am not posting where I surfed this day so he can surf in peace... It's not the first time he has been at this break ... And I never bug him...
However he was coming back out and paddled over a wave landing with a hard splash behind me... I jumped I told him you scared me!! I thought you were one of those sea lions.... He laughed and said oops sorry !

I paddled back down towards Jen and Karen.. Left Irma there to chat with Billy..
I was not feeling that peak after I hit my head..

I def worked on my paddling muscles surfing 3 days in a row.. But wish conditions were a little better .. But it's good to get in on days when it's not so great... That's what makes you a better surfer... Right?

Below pix hubs sent me of said shark along with the text message he sent me ... It still makes me laugh ..what good is it sending me a text like that while surfing?

Surfing and Blogging Ohana coming together to say goodbye to a family member!

Mother Nature smiled down on us with a beautiful day to say goodbye to one of our own!

Today we came together as a blogging and surfing family to send our beloved Pabs off best we could. We all felt we needed to do something so we gathered together at Bolsa Chica.. Valerie from "Eat Surf Love" & "Mere-Made Surfboards" drove up from Encinitas and Surf Sista/Mary and her husband from "Intruder in the Surf", Klaude and his friend Hideki from "KK's Surf Kronicles", Matt from "El Porto Surf" Jeff from "Goofy Kook" drove from Los Angeles, My husband and I along with some of my surf gals from Wahine Kai and friends from Orange County.

It was an amazing day the sun was shining, water was not too cold and it was just so wonderful to gather and meet bloggers we have not met previously! I know Pabs would totally approve and be happy we all finally got together. There were a few missing today..but that is ok.. I know they were there in spirit.

The Paddle out was small and intimate, but went rather well and afterwards, we all caught waves(I don't think anyone left waveless)in the small surf and just enjoyed the camaraderie.

When we were done we gathered and nibbled on snacks and coffee and tea and water.. WE had so much snackage..especially an abundance of donuts..we even started passing them out to passers-by on the trail who were walking, jogging, and biking. WE may have sabotaged a few diets..but oh well!

Valerie brought a collage of Pabs we put on display and had everyone sign. I think she is going to attempt to send it to his family. After all was done Valerie and I walked to the beach and tossed the additional left over flowers one by one out to sea!

Even though it was not a joyous occassaion that brought us all together...It was a very enjoyable day!

I am posting just a small variety of pix from that day. I am sure surf sister and surf mama have a bigger variety they will be posting as well. I think with all the bloggers that attended there will be a lot of view points from that day..and I know they will all be very heartfelt as well.

I would like to share and end my blog post with what I wrote and read before we all paddled out...

I started with some words from Pabs Blog posts...only fitting....


ONE MAN CROWD, SATURDAY SEPTEMBER 29, 2012

"Into the early morning mists of NORCAL I ventured…seeking the elusive stoke while squinting through the soupy blanket that enveloped me, hoping that each distant dark mound of cold liquid rising from the primordial depths would send me cascading across its glassy surface…refueling my desire to be human once again.

This was the intro for a post that day. This is one of the reasons why I, and probably a lot of you here today were enchanted by Pabs. Before I ever met him, I fell in love with his words.
He wrote about surfing so poetically & romantically as he searched for, or on many occasions found the elusive stoke he spoke of so often.

I will never forget the day I met Pabs. He came down to surf with me & Valerie(aka surf mama)& a few of my surf sisters from Wahine Kai.

His words fit him to a tee!! He was very charming, and kind and funny. I have been fortunate to have surfed with him and will always have the memory & thanks to my friend Artie and her go-pro the video of me paddleing for a wave and Pabs swooping by extends his hand and offered me a lift, as he so gracefully glided right past me. I could not stop laughing. We had such a fun time in the water that day. Even though Pabs was in pain, he still managed to surf & have a good time! None of us knew the extent of his injury & even question if it has somethng to do with why he is no longer with us today.

Pabs will forever be in my heart & with me while I seek the stoke! Especially on the "cold" days.

I would like to read one more thing Pabs posted on his Birthday Surf Sesh #18 dated May 15, 2011 - It was a reference to why he enjoyed the stoke so much & why he said he neede it so badly. He admitted to being a stoke addict, though only in moderation. I think ALL of us surfers can relate to these words.

"But think about it...that's what makes it so rewarding for me: You're no longer in TOTAL CONTROL.

Moreover, when you surf, you're entering a realm that humans have no control over. An environment that can kill you at any time.

Though we would like to think we know what we're doing when immersed within the stoke-zone, we are in fact mere passengers upon a liquid carpet that can either unfold in glorious beauty, or be pulled out from under you in a surprisingly and humbling wipe-out.

Giving up and allowing yourself to abandon all control, including all of the life shit that we carry into water...is what makes it such a spiritual experience for many of us stoke seekers.

You have to simply allow yourself to "BE" in the moment...that also includes those times when mother water forces us into "going deep"...a metaphor for reaching into ourselves and finding our soul.

Pabs words have spoke to me on so many levels. But has also helped to deepen my love for surfing! I will very much miss his updates, his advice & of course, Pabs himself.

I am positive his presence is here with us today, & he is happy we have all come together to celebrate his "stoke addiction"!

SO today lets not be sad..lets celebrate STOKE in the name of Pabs!!!!



All Pictures courtesy of my friend Artie.. I totally was consumed putting everything together..I had no time to take pictures.. THANK YOU Artie!

A few Updates!! Pabs Paddle out and My last time surfing my Birthday!

(I just want to say I LOVE this picture of Pabs..so I took it from his page)
OK I just now read his friend posted on Pabs blog...after i posted this picture..that Pabs ashes were spread out at his surf spot with his surf friends up North at Camel Rock.. so wondering if this picture I just picked to post..IS that Camel Rock in the background??? If so that is a coincidence and I think its very cool!!!!

OK so a few updates....I have a few things going on.. gee never a dull moment!

LETS START WITH NEXT WEEKS PADDLE OUT FOR PABS!! So if you are interested in attending and have not contacted me please do. ALSO I changed the location.. STILL AT BOLSA CHICA..but at Tower 27!! I repeat Tower 27!! That is the lot furthest north of the State Beach and if need be and you cannot pay for the parking.. you can park behind Jack in the Box or along the greenbelt and walk in.( side note,, it is the weekend and it can get crowded by the greenbelt and behind Jack in the Box.)

So everything else is the same Saturday Feb. 16th, at 9:00 AM at Bolsa Chica State Beach at TOWER 27!!!!

Look forward to seeing you all there..WISH it was better circumstances but I am sure Pabs wants us celebrating his life and send him out with lots of love and stoke!!


Now last time I surfed..It was my birthday a week ago today. .. I did not take any pictures..I don't know why???..

When we first pulled up to Blackies.. it looked very small.. I just said "Well Surf Gods are not smiling on me for my Birthday".. But I decided It was a sunny,however cold morning.. it was my Birthday and I was going in regardless. Besides I already put in 5 hours at the meter!! I was just happy seeing a few of the Blackies crew AND!!! My friends got a new puppy, a cute Golden Doodle, I am so in love.. but if you know me I LOVE DOGS!! Yep and she stole my heart..So seeing everyone and puppy love,,started off a great day!

As for Surf....

I had a fricken blast! My hubs and few friends joined me as we went out and surfed. Surf was only 1'-2' with a few 3'.. It looked smaller and seem like our surf window was small,so if we were gonna do it...better do it now. BUT I surfed for 2 1/2 hours..I switched boards a few times..took Tallulah out of retirement..{My first board a 9'0 for those of you who don't know or remember}..Because, I thought I would seriously need a big board for that day..So my first couple waves I caught on her.. took me a minute to remember how to surf on her. I purled my first take off and had to remember.. oh yeah flatter nose. After A few rides on her..I used my hubs new board 9'0, single fin it is wider than Tallulah and has more of a rocker up front...He only let me catch one wave on that.. well two if you count the white water I caught to figure out where to stand.. He took the board away from me after that..He either did not want to sit out there on my pink and purple flowered board..or just wanted to play with his new toy.. YEP he got a new toy even though it was my Birthday..hmmmmmmm!!!!

Any way that is a long story and I will save it for another day.

Then I went back and changed out boards and took out my true love "MO"..my 8'0 favorite board to date. Surf did get a little bigger more 3 footers so Mo was lots of fun at that point..

I caught 15 waves that day.. well one was white wash and 2 were close outs..but STILL!!! EVERYONE who surfed with me that day caught waves..everyone left Happy and Smiling.. WHAT A GREAT BIRTHDAY PARTY AT BLACKIES!!

Some of my friends came by to say Happy Birthday and left to surf HB.. Or surfed HB and came after..because as I said looked like the Surf Gods at Blackies were not smiling on my Birthday..BUT actually they really were!!!

Another update.. I don't want to jinx it..but I have been interviewing,(a lot of interviews!!) at an office in North OC with a variety of Agents..and Think????? fingers crossed maybe...I have a job.. its a tad complicated to get into, and I don't want to jinx it..but I am hoping I will be employed soon and with an income that can support my family and account for the commuting! Since it seems my unemployment just ran out..and I cant figure out if I got an extension or not.. DON'T even get me started on that. I want to be off unemployment so bad.. I just want to work, and want an average income! I have put a lot of energy "positive" in this.. SO fingers crossed people.. fingers crossed.

Any way..currently lucky me I am again pet/house sitting at my friends home..the one where I take all my sunset photos.. Maybe if I am lucky I can get some from now till Sunday..but it is pretty overcast right now here at the beach, so we will see!

Again PLEASE contact me if you have not already regarding Pabs Paddle out... I know there are a few of you who read my blog and other blogs along with One Man Crowd..If you knew Pabs, or Blog, or Surf ..You are welcome to attend!

PADDLE OUT FOR PABS!!!

If you are my FB friend I have posted an event and you can RSVP there.

If not...

I have planned a paddle out for Pabs of "ONE MAN CROWD"

It will be held at Bolsa Chica State Beach at Tower 24..(I believe that is the closest Tower to the parking lot outside of the state beach, for those of you without a state pass or do not want to pay the $15.00 entry)

Date: Saturday Feb. 16, 2013

Time: 9:00 AM

I planned this around the tide chart it should be low tide.. High tide can make for a not so nice shore break..This should be easier to paddle out during this time.(fingers crossed..weather permits)

Please bring a flower or a lei to release in the ocean and if you have any words you want to say..please feel free to write a little something.

We will be having coffee, tea and snacks....so if you want to contribute to that as well it would be most appreciated.

Hope you all can come say goodbye to our fellow blogger.. fellow surfer...and friend..

Pabs, Pablo, Paul Koontz.

Rest In Peace Pabs<3...

I could not sleep ... So decided to read my surf blogs... And a friend of Pabs posted in Pabs last blog "One Man Crowd" he passed away last Sunday Jan. 13, 2013 of a pulmonary artery embolism....

I'm so heartbroken to hear this news as a lot of my fellow bloggers know he was part of our blogging family. ... Surf mama and I had the honor of meeting and surfing with Pabs this last summer... He was so charming and we had so much fun although he did have a medical issue... That I am not entirely sure was really diagnosed :-(...He still surfed with us in pain and all! He also met members of my surf club...they all found him sweet and charming as well!

With my whole heart I mean this .... You will be missed !

Hope you are now catching the perfect wave!

Much love as you rest in Peace!

Feeling Pretty Awesome!!!

Well it's been cold and surf has been flat last time I surfed was Jan 5th and it was not eventful I caught 4 waves at Blackies and it was cold!!!!!

I did surf today and I will get to that... Again really not eventful ....

Let's catch up...

I have been doing my January detox and doing really well!

No alcohol, dairy,meat not even chicken or seafood no caffeine /coffee no sugar no processed or minimally processed.. No fast food and I have been reducing my gluten intake as well ... Basically eating vegan/wheatless !!
I'm doing great!!! I feel great and I have more clarity and my senses are elevated especially my sense of smell!
I have not done any extreme exercise just 10 sun salutations every morning and walking or other yoga . Although last couple days I have been riding my sons longboard skateboard up and down our street.. And pulled my back muscle which is still sore ... Does that count as "extreme" exercise???

I did my 3 day cleanse where I just had green smoothies and salad with lots of veggies w/ lime or lemon and a cabbage veggie soup for three days and detox tea and water... Just happen I was on that fasting type cleanse last time I surfed so yeah not a lot if energy!

Now I have so much energy and lost 11 lbs!!! Woot woot!

I had some health issues ( I don't want to go into) but found out I'm ok!!! But during blood work found out I have high cholesteral !! Never ever have I had that before ... But I'm sure this diet and cleanse will help with all that!.

I also think I have a good job lead... Been interviewing at a real estate office with a few agents for an assistant position And I think I will be employed by end of the month ... Fingers crossed! I do like this office and the people! All big +'s!!!!!!!!

This weekend I'm pet/house sitting in Sunset Beach... Same house I stayed
at on my staycation last year almost to date ;-)

I got here last night and missed the sunset. ... But not today ....
I got up cleaned the cat boxes scooped dog poop and fed everyone...took the dog ... Otto on a 30 minute walk.. Then I rode a beach cruiser from sunset to HB pier .. Surf looked ok but I was waiting for my friend Irma at noon... I stopped to see my friend Eric out at Bolsa took pix and a poor guy who was surfing next to Eric just got out got hit by a Stingray after his first wave ... I felt so bad for him...blood was pouring from his heal OUCH!!!

Bike ride was 12.8 miles round trip 2 hours!!! I did stop at Bolsa and then at the Pier and did some stretching...
Came back to the house changed pack Tahoe and caught up with Irma at Bolsa...

I also gave Mo a fresh wax job after last surf session so Mo was fresh and ready to go! It feels good to have a cleaned & Freshly wax board!

It was a beautiful day... Not much wind yet and surf was not so great but we paddled out and the water was cold cold cold ... I think it was 51 degrees... I think I can handle 54 and that's it ! But again it was such a pretty sunshiny day! A pod a dolphins were outside and a big ole sea lion was inside .. We were surrounded by sea wild life! And surfing in vicinity of the stingray!

I caught 3 close outs ... That is all! Irma caught a nice long left... I was paddling for it too ...but here came Irma down the line and she looked so graceful and like she was having FUN! I'm surprised there was even one wave like that at all! We surfed for an hour ... It got blown out and swampy so we came in and realized we were the only surfers out there!

Came back to the house took a shower and drove around did some errands... Back in time to catch the sunset as seen in the following pix!

This my friends was an eventful day! And yes all was done with a sore lower back... Time for a salon pa patch...
I am not going to let that slow me down ;-)

Wonder what adventures awaits me tomorrow????

Enjoy the pix!

Here Is To An Amazing New Year!!

I am starting my New Years off with a Positive Bang!!!

I put it in writing so i have to follow through and keep a journal everyday ... So yeah only Day 3 but I'm off too a good start! Today I did some fat burning Yoga.. And feel great!

I'm cleansing with a plant based diet detoxing and clearing my head and eliminating negativity and reinventing myself and I will be employed!!!

(oh and speaking of plant based diets I suggest everyone watch the documentary "Forks over Knives"... Enlightening!)

I surfed this past weekend ... I stayed at my pseudo vacay home near the beach!
Surfed my friends Art in Motion boards again...
They are fun and I did better on that single fin 8'0 but I love my MO... And I missed him terribly this weekend !

So Sunday I surfed Blackies and I surfed with my friends Irma , Kevin and Laura south side of pier because it was crazy crowded !!
It's been rainy and windy and the day before I drove through the lot and a surf school was giving lessons in the rain and wind... But waves looked good...only the school was there.
So I guess with the Weather and Holidays everyone wanted to surf the first sunny yet still cold day! Waves were about 3-4.

I surfed the 9'0 first and did not do well ... Must have been the waves ... The nose is flat also and it just didn't want to cooperate ... I did better next day in different surf conditions on that board.
Then I got the 8'0 and did better but I still need to work on balance with a single fin.. I caught waves inside with that.. I think 2 on the 8'0.. But nothing really worth mentioning.

Monday surfed Bolsa used the 9'0 and had 2 really fun long rides...
But the paddle out was odd I felt stuck and it took a lot to get back out.
I surfed with Artie, Laura and Terri ... Irma never showed up???
Any way I let Laura try the 9'0 And I tried her 7'0... Which was very difficult ... I had the hardest time just trying to sit outside with it... I didn't even attempt to surf it...
So after Laura caught a wave and tried the board with the big (butt) tail.... We traded back..
Yep 8'0 is smallest I'm going .... And I'm perfectly Happy with that!!!

After my second fun ride I could not get back out.. I paddled paddled paddled and did not get anywhere ... I was frustrated and worn from paddling so I stayed in and watched ... Waves were getting worse and no one was catching them where we were and I saw one guy struggling to paddle out same place I was ... So I am happy I came in :-) .. Tide was getting high and funky.
When we started surfing Laura said waves were small... But when we stood on the sand before going out... I saw some head high waves... And said to the others ... That's not small!!!
1-2 is small anything chest high and over I get a bit intimidated by... But have learned knee to chest is my favorite conditions !

Any way I did not get many pix... I took one of my hubs boat( he worked a whale watch trip and drove the boat that day) we watched as it was coming into the Harbor as sun was setting from the tide pools on Sunday. Also kids surfing in the rain and of my Detox plan in writing!
Sorry for not taking better pix.

Here is to a much better 2013!!! There is so much that needs to change this Year! And it will...
And here is to Fun Surf in 2013 as well!!!